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Possibly buying 2000 Firebird

Old 02-22-2011, 05:16 PM
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Default Possibly buying 2000 Firebird

I am new to ls1's but have been looking to buy one for a while. I test drove one today, and would like some input about what i noticed. Red, t tops, leather, 6spd, i believe flowmaster exhaust (dealer didn't know) but it was pretty damn loud, short shifter, aftermarket springs (maybe eibach), stock shocks. Shifting was nice and smooth. The issues i noticed however, blinkers didnt work. The arrow in the dash stayed solid and the front and rear blinkers (both sides) also stayed solid. Passenger side window didn't work. Vents on drivers side had been removed and didnt blow air, but i looked throughout the trunk and under the hood and couldn't see any signs of a turbo or spray setup. The roads around the dealer were pretty beat up and the rear suspension made a lot of noise going over bumbs. Dealer is replacing the tires as they were in need of replacement and the power steering pump would also need to be replaced. Body was in really good condition with the exception of a dent and 4 inch long scrach on the hood. The dash had a big crack in it but i know this is common on these cars. My main concern is the noise from the rear suspension and vents that were removed. Dealer wants 5k for the car with 115,000 miles on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Any input is appreciated.
Old 02-22-2011, 05:36 PM
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Welcome to the forum. It sounds like the blinkers just need new bulbs, one of mine did that when I got the car and I replaced it and everything was fine. As for the vents, there could be many reasons why they were missing but I wonder if the old owner had gauges mounted in the vent holes. It’s weird that they don’t blow air though. Did you notice if the passenger side vents blew air?
Old 02-22-2011, 05:44 PM
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What Tom said about the blinkers. It could just be there's a few bulbs out.

As far as the vents, yah, that's wierd.

The rear suspension....mines noisy too. I want to say it's a thing with these cars, but I'm sure someone will disagree with me. It's possible at 115k (or 105k in the case of mine) the bushings and maybe swaybar endlinks need replacing.

Pass window, yeah, the motors tend to go on those alot. Is the dealer going to fix that? Same thing with the bulbs actually, it won't pass inspection like that, so I would think he'd have to fix it before selling. Or is this a "as is" sale?

5k doesn't sound too bad as long as it runs good, I guess, and it IS a M6, which is good. How does it compare with the prices of others in your area?
Old 02-22-2011, 06:26 PM
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the floor vents and windshield vent work, all four at face height dont work however. This is very cheap for my i area. Im in the northeast and a t/a's and z28's on craigslist around here start at about 7500 and go up as high as 12000. I was thinking that someone had some sort of gauges there.

as far as fixing everything, the salesman said he could def get the stuff fixed but wants to see my car before investing in this car for me. i was thinking of just talking him down on price and fixing it myself, depending on what he wants to give me for my car. the dealership isn't the very great, so i think i'd rather do the work myself.
Old 02-22-2011, 08:29 PM
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Vents on drivers side had been removed and didnt blow air, but i looked throughout the trunk and under the hood and couldn't see any signs of a turbo or spray setup.
Ok gotta ask, what made missing vents lead you to the conclusion that it had a turbo or NOS setup on it?
Old 02-22-2011, 08:36 PM
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uhhh because what goes inside vents other than air? gauges.. so thats basically the only logical assumption considering people don't take the vents out for S&G's
Old 02-22-2011, 08:36 PM
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missing vents i figured were for some sort of gauges. idk why else it would be missing two vents. obviously these gauges could be for anything but things to look out for would be turbo or nitrous setup, at least i think so. maybe it was a dumb assumption, but i though it could be a possibility.
Old 02-22-2011, 08:47 PM
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Agreed on the bulbs. If the shocks in the rear are stock, they could be shot and not doing their job; leading to some noises and an uncomfortable ride. Stockers are orange Decarbons, have a look. Try and talk the dealer down some, I just bought my 99 A4 for $4700, its an auto with 111k.
Old 02-22-2011, 09:55 PM
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^Yup go look under the rear wheel and if you see that the shock is orange its factory and you can bank on it being shot by now haha. Sounds like common symptoms for our cars, you should be able to negotiate with the dealer because of them though
Old 02-22-2011, 09:59 PM
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Forgot to mention, unless the dealer is replacing with the tires of your choice and not some 235 series Continentals, I'd take the car as is, with an approximate cost of tires discounted from the price. Tires, and shocks make a huge difference in the handling of the car, those are things I'd want to replace with parts of my choice.
Old 02-22-2011, 10:34 PM
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excellent call crispy
Old 02-23-2011, 07:06 AM
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according the dealer, he ordered the same tires that are on it now and is keeping the price the same so i can't get him down on tires. but the window, ps pump, shocks, and blinkers i can talk him down on hopefully. overall you guys think its a good deal? and yea, they were the factory orange shocks.
Old 02-23-2011, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Crispy
Agreed on the bulbs. If the shocks in the rear are stock, they could be shot and not doing their job; leading to some noises and an uncomfortable ride. Stockers are orange Decarbons, have a look. Try and talk the dealer down some, I just bought my 99 A4 for $4700, its an auto with 111k.
True, but FYI, I changed my shocks recently (to Konis), and the rear still rides very rough and is noisy. Maybe bushings?
Old 02-23-2011, 11:33 PM
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I say go for it..I just bought my 2000 Formula LS1,M6 for $2900.(It took some doing though )..its got 179k on it and has the rear suspinsion noise,needs tires,sluggish passenger window and a squeeking noise from around the engine I cant figure out when it's driven for a while....Oh and the 3rd gear syncro is going out but all in all I've been told if you can get a fourth gen M6 V8 car at a good deal do it.....Good luck bro...
Old 02-25-2011, 01:48 AM
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For that price id buy it. but be "that guy" u know the haggler.
Old 02-25-2011, 11:44 AM
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See if he can fix those few problems you noticed and it sounds like a decent deal.
Old 03-01-2011, 11:06 AM
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Make sure to think about the dealer's fees and everything else they try to tack on at the end. If you can, get him to give it to you for $5,000 OUT THE DOOR. All that other stuff can add up quick. Ask him how much the dealer's fees and any additional fees.

IMO, if he is only asking $5,000 and it's a six speed car with only 115,000, either it's a steal or something's wrong with it he's not telling you. If you aren't mechanically inclined, it might be a good idea to have someone who is come look at the car. At 115,000, you might be looking at a new clutch soon, too, depending on if it's the original and how hard it's been driven. Good luck!
Old 03-01-2011, 12:30 PM
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Have you requested a Carfax/Autocheck yet? If not, get that asap before you try and negotiate a price. If the price of the vehicle is low for your area, chances are the dealership knows that also. When I bought my 2000 WS6 two weeks ago, they wouldn't barter AT ALL. The only added incentive I got was an extra set of WS6 chrome rims with some new 275/40/17 Nittos, which wasn't too bad imo.

One thing I hadn't done before purchasing my car was request to see it on a lift. This makes alot of sense as you'll see things you havent seen before. Any leaks? Damaged suspension? Alxe seals still good? This will let the dealer know how serious you are about the car, and also works in your favor as the more issues you find, the lower you'll be able to comfortably offer them.
Old 03-01-2011, 06:53 PM
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rare that sounds good about putting it on the lift if the dealer lets you I almost got ripped the whole under was messed up it fell off the jack stands ..


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