LS1 Power+Plus Typhoon vs LS6 Intake??
02-24-2011, 03:08 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LS1 Power+Plus Typhoon vs LS6 Intake?? Typhoon, Stock GM LS6, Or SLP Performance LS6 intake? Pro's & Con's of all 3? Please share your experiences that you have.
02-24-2011, 04:38 PM
#2
is the slp ls6 intake the EGR emissions legal intake?.the typhoon intake is from china and probably not a good as a BBK intake.you can get a stock ls6 intake for $300 or less.you can get a used BBK for $300 also.
02-25-2011, 04:08 AM
#6
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't really believe in the 'heat soak' crap, not saying it doesn't happen, but the air is really moving too fast for it to make any sort of noticeable change in temperature when traveling through the intake manifold. I definitely say the LS6 though, the BBK will add like 15lbs to your front end (not a whole lot, till you start doing serious weight reduction), but still. Plus I'm pretty sure you can get the LS6 for cheaper. For example I just purchased a used LS6 intake w/ stock throttle body for 350 SHIPPED.
02-25-2011, 07:01 AM
#7
I went w/ the typhoon strictly for its looks, it is a heavier piece but I dont have any ac components etc. so im still a little ahead of the game weight wise...I definately noticed an increase in power, thats saying something seeing some guys dont even notice the ls6 intake after install.
Trending Topics
02-25-2011, 09:40 AM
#8
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you really wanted to get into it, you could compare flow ratings. The LS6 lops off around 265cfm. Pat G has a sticky about getting '500rwhp' from the 346, he compares the LS6 (265cfm) to the 90mm FAST (275cfm) to a ported 90mm FAST (280cfm). I'm not sure where you'd get flow specs on the BBK or Typhoon though, I wouldn't go with the 'advertised' specs, they are anything but accurate (again in Pat G's sticky he compares advertised flow ratings to actual test results on the flow bench, showing the inaccuracy. The tests were on heads though if I'm not mistaken..)
02-25-2011, 02:06 PM
#11
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't have mine port matched, but I have heads/cam... I will have to look at the GTO boards..Thanks for the heads up..
02-25-2011, 02:31 PM
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: levittown, pa
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont get how people can have radiators and heaters in their cars and not believe that heat soak has a significant effect on intake air temperature? You may not have fins to give you tons of surface area but you have much more distance traveled in the intake than you do the 2 inches of a radiator or heater core. So if they dont heat the air up how exactly does your car blow warm air or the car not overheat? Stupid.
How much lower is the intake air once it reaches the cylinders? Not sure, but aluminum will radiate heat literally 900x more than the composite the ls6 manifold is made of.
How much lower is the intake air once it reaches the cylinders? Not sure, but aluminum will radiate heat literally 900x more than the composite the ls6 manifold is made of.
02-25-2011, 03:00 PM
#13
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont get how people can have radiators and heaters in their cars and not believe that heat soak has a significant effect on intake air temperature? You may not have fins to give you tons of surface area but you have much more distance traveled in the intake than you do the 2 inches of a radiator or heater core. So if they dont heat the air up how exactly does your car blow warm air or the car not overheat? Stupid.
How much lower is the intake air once it reaches the cylinders? Not sure, but aluminum will radiate heat literally 900x more than the composite the ls6 manifold is made of.
How much lower is the intake air once it reaches the cylinders? Not sure, but aluminum will radiate heat literally 900x more than the composite the ls6 manifold is made of.
The intake air comes from before the radiator and never moves through it..
02-26-2011, 08:27 PM
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
At WOT you have no "time over target" to heat the air
in. Even if the manifold is "heat soaked". If you want to
cut down on that, run your fans full time like I do.
The fin surface area of your radiator is about 5000 square
inches. The surface area of the manifold runner is about
25 square inches more or less. I figured up that at 500CFM
your air spends under 5 milliseconds in the runner.
I spent some time tonight pulling heat transfer calcs
off the Interwebs, and it looks like an aluminum runner
of our geometry and 100C (212F, hotter than water
jacket if you're smart) will push 68 watts (yeah) of
heat and raise the air temp 1.9 degrees (yeah) along
its length.
Feel free to check my work.
Pro Products had lousy gaskets originally, they gave me
the better ones free for the asking when I bought the
85mm new, and found it had the old style. I had no leak
or fit-up problems.
I port-matched my LS6 heads and the Typhoon ports
to the gaskets they sent me. I didn't dig any deeper
on the intake. But it has a removable bottom plate if
you felt the need.
in. Even if the manifold is "heat soaked". If you want to
cut down on that, run your fans full time like I do.
The fin surface area of your radiator is about 5000 square
inches. The surface area of the manifold runner is about
25 square inches more or less. I figured up that at 500CFM
your air spends under 5 milliseconds in the runner.
I spent some time tonight pulling heat transfer calcs
off the Interwebs, and it looks like an aluminum runner
of our geometry and 100C (212F, hotter than water
jacket if you're smart) will push 68 watts (yeah) of
heat and raise the air temp 1.9 degrees (yeah) along
its length.
Feel free to check my work.
Pro Products had lousy gaskets originally, they gave me
the better ones free for the asking when I bought the
85mm new, and found it had the old style. I had no leak
or fit-up problems.
I port-matched my LS6 heads and the Typhoon ports
to the gaskets they sent me. I didn't dig any deeper
on the intake. But it has a removable bottom plate if
you felt the need.
02-27-2011, 06:28 PM
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
I pulled out the laser temperature meter and took some
readings. After a 5 mile drive and 5 minute idling in the
parking lot with the hood closed, the Pro Products intake
read 112F on the runner 1/2" from the heads, heads read
168F, front fender 85F.
On the way back out of Wal-Mart, heads and intake both
135F. I was in there a while.
So there's your heat soak bogeyman. If you're set up like
me there's nothing much going on while running. If my
calcs based on 212F are any kind of right, the aluminum
doesn't do any significant heating at all on my car (112F).
Of course if you have dumb factory fan settings, a plugged
up radiator and live in Arizona, you might well be worse.
But there's no excuse for any of that.
readings. After a 5 mile drive and 5 minute idling in the
parking lot with the hood closed, the Pro Products intake
read 112F on the runner 1/2" from the heads, heads read
168F, front fender 85F.
On the way back out of Wal-Mart, heads and intake both
135F. I was in there a while.
So there's your heat soak bogeyman. If you're set up like
me there's nothing much going on while running. If my
calcs based on 212F are any kind of right, the aluminum
doesn't do any significant heating at all on my car (112F).
Of course if you have dumb factory fan settings, a plugged
up radiator and live in Arizona, you might well be worse.
But there's no excuse for any of that.
