Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, got my new engine on Friday, a 3k mile L96 out of 2010 Silverado. The MAF was destroyed in the wreck, so I need to get a new one and associated tubing. Any recco's on which MAF I should get? Also, I have read that the truck intake actually is a better performer than the car, but I know almost everyone swaps out to a car for looks. Am I mistaken on the performance difference? If I stay with the truck intake, I wanted to clean it up like this and try to paint it with the black chrome:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=940584

comments?

This is going to take a few months...hope to be done before summer ends. Also, since I can't yet post on classifieds, if someone has an LS T56 swapover they want to sell, I'm in the market w/cash now. Actually prefer a really cheap one needing a rebuild that I can just ship to TDP and put a known good rebuilt one behind this motor.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I am leaning to just get the LS7 clutch kit since this will be a basically stock setup (thinking about JBA shorty camaro headers/midpipe if they fit). Anybody with a great link on installing the clutch properly?

Thx!

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Nice engine. I went with the LS1 intake to clear the hood on my 442. The TB sticks up pretty far on the truck intake.
If you swap intakes, I'm pretty sure the L96 has rectangular ports so you'll need an LS3 intake, injectors, and rails.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Found this one this a.m.; posted for others:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11vv-QsnRh0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWzBU2iRmqo&NR=1

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I do have the Ram Air hood; so were you just being safe or did you put it on and it hit? Seems like the alternator is just as high--I thought the truck accessories would clear?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I got the intake for $30 with bolts, so it was cheap insurance.
Yeah, and it does look a little nicer.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, I got the stock harness removed today. Want to send it off and have it cleaned up and done to support my install. Who do you all recommend? I've emailed speartech; haven't heard anything back. I'll contact waitforme and see what they can do.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, I thought things were going ok today, as I got most things off the engine. But I started to drain the oil and about a gallon of coolant comes out! Then the oil finally comes out. So, looking at the pictures of the wreck, it looks like the engine could have been upside down. Not sure what I need to do next; was hoping not to pull the heads, now I'm not sure the next step. Thoughts?

oldgoat69

Did you pull the spark plugs yet? Look for signs of water on the tips. If it is present I would pull the heads to look for water damage. The coolant could only come from 2 places. A crack in the block or heads or a leak in the intake. From your picture with the intake removed, it appears that you have rust stains in a couple of intake ports. That would be evidence of an intake leak across water ports. I would look there first.

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

The Intake does not go anywhere near coolant (no passages through it or near it) So either something is cracked or the headgaskets blown wich I doubt. I would check for cracks in the block specifically on the side that was hit.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

no car pics yet?

if i dont go with a carb style intake ill probably be grabbing a TBSS intake; its supposed to be the 'best' style truck intake (not sure what else it came one) but you're right, if you dont mind the looks and it fits its better for low end torque (the tbss style doesnt lose any on the top end either, afaik).

i loved my old ls7 setup

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, how about an current engine (which is getting pulled Saturday) and an interior shot w/my GTO seats?

oldgoat69

I expected a comment. If it is actual coolant and not clear water look at the throttle body coolant passage, it could have been damaged in the accident. This is the coolant I refer to.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, all the comments went over on a separate thread. after discovering the yard left the oil filler cap off after the wreck, and then powerwashed it. Was dirty water color, not dexcool.

See
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...what-next.html

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhh those white goat seats are awesome. how much was recovering them?

i didnt know it was already an lt1 swap

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I love the cold air induction. I did something similar on my 68 vette with an L88 hood.
I'm still trying to decide what to do with my 72 442.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I don't know how to connect it, but I'm thinking about getting one of those diagnostic cameras so I can see exactly how much clearance I have, then fiberglassing a box as part of the hood to force the air back towards the front of the engine bay. Then fab up some sort of box to surround and air cleaner that could have foam on the top to join up to the air outlet from the hood. Hard to describe, but that's what I think I might do.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well got the old Lt1/T56 out yesterday. Fair price to me and buyer so pretty happy, even though I'll pay 3-4 times sell price to get it LS power.

Here are a couple of pics of my frame mounts. What are the best engine mounts for this style? I know there are two styles; I don't really have a clue which style I have--I bought these in 1990 when I first put a tuned port motor in. Just moved the frame mounts around to the holes that fit--my engine thought it was in a chevelle.

So, reccos on motor mounts?

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I can't think of a reason the energy suspension tall and narrows wouldn't work.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Another ?. If I am going with a basically stock engine (maybe shorty headers; no other change), is there a need to dyno tune once running? I'm trying to decide which way to go on harness. A couple of the harness guys I'm looking at charge $150 to delete vats, extra O2 etc. If this is all I'll need I should go this route. However, there is a local dyno tuner that will come to my house and do baseline startup tune for $250, and then lower his dyno tune costs for another $250 or $500 total. If I need dyno tuning, I'll not bother having the wiring people do any computer reflash. But if its advisable, then I'll go with the local dyno shop. Thoughts?