Best Complete Rotating Assembly?
02-28-2011, 02:45 AM
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Best Complete Rotating Assembly? For an 08 L76, already has all the goodies in the sig. I need a complete balanced rotating assembly to go in this motor that will:
A. Hold the boost well.
B. Be significantly lighter and stronger than stock.
C. Get my compression at 11:1.
D. Be able to rap tight.
What rings should be paired with what pistons as well. I'm using standard gaskets but may go with LS9's. And this block is not being line bored. I'm simply pulling it out of the car because it broke a ring and as soon as it happened I knew it so I killed it and haven't ran it since. I'm praying it didn't gouge the cylinder wall. Assuming it did very little damage I want to build the bottom end to withstand that much power.
Thanks everyone,
Robbie.
A. Hold the boost well.
B. Be significantly lighter and stronger than stock.
C. Get my compression at 11:1.
D. Be able to rap tight.
What rings should be paired with what pistons as well. I'm using standard gaskets but may go with LS9's. And this block is not being line bored. I'm simply pulling it out of the car because it broke a ring and as soon as it happened I knew it so I killed it and haven't ran it since. I'm praying it didn't gouge the cylinder wall. Assuming it did very little damage I want to build the bottom end to withstand that much power.
Thanks everyone,
Robbie.
02-28-2011, 06:17 AM
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LOL i see a fail coming?
every thing you posted goes against buying cheap parts but you dont want to hone the mains ?
post a price range.
my crank fits your goals but just my crank cost 3500 dollars
every thing you posted goes against buying cheap parts but you dont want to hone the mains ?
post a price range.
my crank fits your goals but just my crank cost 3500 dollars
02-28-2011, 03:28 PM
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Price range.... Well that depends on how good the parts are. Time is slightly of the essence because where I live there are no machine shops that can do what needs to be done for line boring and I really am walking my *** everywhere I go. 
I'm not boosting much, only 10 psi. I figure that 11:1 might be a little questionable but then again I just finished building a 415 Maggied at 12psi and 10:5.1 compression and that went into a pickup. It is wicked! I'm flexible on this.... And I'm just wanting opinions, my first choice would be a Magnum XL 3.819 crank (I think makes a 396 with a 4.065 bore? I'll check my math in a bit.), Callies H Beam Rods, and CP or Diamond Pistons with total seal rings, But I figured here would be a good starting point to ask. Whaddya you guys think?
I'm not boosting much, only 10 psi. I figure that 11:1 might be a little questionable but then again I just finished building a 415 Maggied at 12psi and 10:5.1 compression and that went into a pickup. It is wicked! I'm flexible on this.... And I'm just wanting opinions, my first choice would be a Magnum XL 3.819 crank (I think makes a 396 with a 4.065 bore? I'll check my math in a bit.), Callies H Beam Rods, and CP or Diamond Pistons with total seal rings, But I figured here would be a good starting point to ask. Whaddya you guys think? Last edited by IDRIVEAG8GT; 02-28-2011 at 03:43 PM.
02-28-2011, 08:00 PM
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Thinking about this too, a balanced 3.622 Crank from Lunati shaved to 43 pounds, Custom shaved I Beam rods, Diamond -8cc pistons (10:7.1), and Total Seal Rings?
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02-28-2011, 09:41 PM
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No Lil Jon and the Eastside Boyz. JK, I mean I wanna rev it 6800 safely, and be a balanced set. Your G8's in the 10's? I ran a 11.16 on street tires with a stock converter, I wanna be in the 10's so bad!
03-01-2011, 03:56 AM
#12
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You need to know what bore you will need and what chamber ccs you have for your compression to work out right. We have stuff from 1665.00 - 5495.00 on rotating assemblies dependingon actual parts.
03-01-2011, 07:48 AM
#14
haha gotcha. Should be fine with a better bottom end, I rev mine to 7k with no problem, still stock short block. I run 11.50 on motor and 10's on a little spray. I have drag radials and a FTI3600 converter. Best I got so far on the stock tires was 12.0, I could barely give it gas off the line without those 245's screaming.
03-01-2011, 08:02 AM
#15
FormerVendor
^^^^^ Agree with Eric, Need a lot more info to accurately price a kit. Whats the application, I assume street/strip, if that is the case, going with our DragonSlayer will be best (48 pounds or close to it). One it saves you money, and 2, you don't need a lightweight crank (Magnum XL), unless you plan on road racing.
-Adam @ Callies
-Adam @ Callies
03-01-2011, 08:19 AM
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I really appreciate all the comments and suggestions guys. To answer the questions this car has currently has a 4.065 bore with LS3 No-Mill heads. I believe the combustion chamber is 68cc. Application is mainly street with a little bit of everything else mixed in. I've heard a lot of good things about the DragonSlayer too. So that's good by me, but I have one question. If I were to compare the horsepower of what a motor does in horsepower with a lighter and then a heavier crank, wouldn't the lighter crank supposedly walk all over it?
03-01-2011, 08:29 AM
#18
FormerVendor
I really appreciate all the comments and suggestions guys. To answer the questions this car has currently has a 4.065 bore with LS3 No-Mill heads. I believe the combustion chamber is 68cc. Application is mainly street with a little bit of everything else mixed in. I've heard a lot of good things about the DragonSlayer too. So that's good by me, but I have one question. If I were to compare the horsepower of what a motor does in horsepower with a lighter and then a heavier crank, wouldn't the lighter crank supposedly walk all over it?
-Adam @ Callies
03-01-2011, 11:26 AM
#20
FormerVendor
Assuming 68cc:
K445X7 would give you ~ 10.25 to one compression at 15cc dish with a 4.000 crank.
K398X7 would give you ~ 10.6 to one compresion at 3cc with a stock stroke crank.
Crank and rods depend on how much total power and rpm you will turn but I think even the Compstar 4340 Crank and Rods would be fine.
Like Adam said weight has no direct effect on steady state HP but the faster you accelerate the engine as in lower gears or lower final drive you will see more RWHP due to not as much hp being used to accelerate the engine parts. Steady state hp will not be affected though of course.
Depending on power you might also upgrade to thicker tool steel pins.
K445X7 would give you ~ 10.25 to one compression at 15cc dish with a 4.000 crank.
K398X7 would give you ~ 10.6 to one compresion at 3cc with a stock stroke crank.
Crank and rods depend on how much total power and rpm you will turn but I think even the Compstar 4340 Crank and Rods would be fine.
Like Adam said weight has no direct effect on steady state HP but the faster you accelerate the engine as in lower gears or lower final drive you will see more RWHP due to not as much hp being used to accelerate the engine parts. Steady state hp will not be affected though of course.
Depending on power you might also upgrade to thicker tool steel pins.
