Steve Gunn

Hi guys,

I've ran with A/C delete (minus the evaperator back). After years of driving a black longtube car in California summer traffic, it's time to install the A/C again. I have a new condensor, pump and dryer sitting in boxes. My question is about the evaporator coil.

It's been sitting in the car for years, original and undisturbed. I ran it with the lines uncapped for a year or so and then I covered the open lines with tape and it's been "sealed" since.

Do you think I can save this bad boy or am I going to be removing the dash and buying a new one?

Also, I've searched, googled, etc with no luck on a writeup for replacement. I don't want to pay some monkey to do it out of sheer cheapness. Any advice?

Thanks!

Elthesh

iTrader: (1)

It could be fine, may not be. Being likely the original, plus open to the elements for a long time, who knows. On the one hand, I pulled an evap from a 1970s Firebird about 12 years ago in the junkyard and it worked fine in my 1979. But really, you're putting brand new parts in, and even if you flush it out, do you want to risk having it leak in 6 months, a year, 2 years? If you don't mind rolling the dice, go for it. I did, but these days, I'd just replace it really. Peace of mind and all that. If it had been sealed all this time, I'd be a lot more likely to not replace it though, especially if the entire system was left intact, but being open that long and the age and all...

I had to replace on of those on an 84 Ford Tempo once too back in 1992. I really don't have a lot of faith in older evaporators these days, unless I'm broke.

Steve Gunn

Thank you for the advice. But really, I'm just lazy enough to take a chance if there IS a possibility of it being fine, if even for awhile. I'll be out the flush and the freon at best it sounds like. Is a leak the only possible mishap or is there an efficiency concern I wonder?

**EDIT**
After an eternity of searching, I found this thread on a dash removal: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...placement.html
And this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...x-removal.html
These: https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...need-tips.html

Doesn't look too bad...still, I would rather avoid.

Elthesh

iTrader: (1)

Short of a leak, I can't think of anything else. It either works or it doesn't. Once its flushed, short of being old, it will be as good as new in the flow department. The only possible issue would be if a massive amount of dirt or bugs crawled up in the core. Too bad it's not like my old 79. You removed the core from under the hood.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Flush it, run it and hope for the best.

Steve Gunn

Thanks, guys!

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Yup, flush the hell outta of it and then blow lots of air to get all the flush out. Hope it works for you as changing EVAP is a PIA and not easy.

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

If it makes you feel better I'm doing the same thing. My dad has been an automotive a/c mechanic his whole life and he told me to reuse my old condensor and evaporator. I'm replacing every line and the compressor, though.

Ps if you need a good cheap source use partstaxi.com for gm parts and techchoice for the best prices.

Steve Gunn

Thanks, I will!


Thanks! Must be nice having a pro in the family.


I was going to assemble most of it, then take it to a shop for the flush, pressure test and freon. I'm a newb to A/C. I wonder how much I could do myself? I wonder how much the tools to do it are? Would it be worth tackling myself or just hand my money to someone???? I'd be willing to try it if it would save money.
Crap! I guess I'll be searching until my eyes bleed again...

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

Buy gauges and vacuum pump at harbor freight. The vacuum pump needs a decent sized air compressor to run. The pump goes on sale for 20 I believe. The gauges are 60-80? I forget.

Not the best quality but you'll Probobly use them once maybe twice ya know?

It's really simple, I've done a good bit of home a/c work with my grandpas buisness. Basically you pull a deep vacuum after flushing HEAVILY. Pull 28 inches mercury I think, for one hour. This will boil any moisture and also check for leaks. Then fill refrigerant and oil with gauges, unless your new compressor has oil in it. You can look up your high and low side readings and how to do that online, just make sure your looking at 134a guides.

Of course a shop could do all this, they tend to charge alot though...

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

Use 150 weight pag oil if you gotta buy your own. Oil every o ring with this oil. Check those websites I gave you out. I'm replacing everything for like 300 bucks I think. That's assuming you already have the a/c braket and bolts. Paid 110 for the two lines. 40 for my drier, and 165 for my compressor. All gm parts except the compressor, and the company told me the compressor came from gms assembly line, butnhas their name on it, idk...

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

the only flush you should use is r134a. You will never get all the flushing agent out no matter how much air you put to it. You can put some filters on the suction and discharge side of the compressor. (delco makes them fit right in the compressor) so you dont have to worry bout ruining that. Also dont use pag oil. Delco makes a oil made for all r134a systems. part #10-5040. The part #on my filter kit is 15-21184. I dont think you would want to buy the whole kit, but maybe you can just get the individual filters you need.

Steve Gunn

Great info! Thank you!!!!