Gauges and radio not working.. please help
#1
Gauges and radio not working.. please help
Hey guys, I need some help. I have a 2000 trans am ws6 with about 34,000 miles. I stored it for the winter but before I stored it the speedometer, tachometer, and fuel gauge stopped working completely but decided to wait until spring came around to fix it. There seems to be no power whatsoever to both the gauges and radio (also, trunk wont open with remote but don't know if it could be related). The radio and all other electronics are stock. Only mods are Corsa catback and an SLP airbox lid.
Aside from the radio and gauges, the car runs/starts/drives great. the fuses are all good and I even replaced them to be sure. What could be wrong? I want to try avoid going to the dealer and spending big bucks if I could do it myself. Any and all help is much appreciated!!
Aside from the radio and gauges, the car runs/starts/drives great. the fuses are all good and I even replaced them to be sure. What could be wrong? I want to try avoid going to the dealer and spending big bucks if I could do it myself. Any and all help is much appreciated!!
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
so i dont start a new thread...BUMP.
I somehow grounded out my fuel gauge by tapping into the lighter.
go figure.
unlike the OP, everything BUT the fuel gauge works.
just site dead at 3pm.
wtf?
hope someone can shed some light on how the gauges are all intertwined with other accessories.
I somehow grounded out my fuel gauge by tapping into the lighter.
go figure.
unlike the OP, everything BUT the fuel gauge works.
just site dead at 3pm.
wtf?
hope someone can shed some light on how the gauges are all intertwined with other accessories.
#7
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Hey guys, I need some help. I have a 2000 trans am ws6 with about 34,000 miles. I stored it for the winter but before I stored it the speedometer, tachometer, and fuel gauge stopped working completely but decided to wait until spring came around to fix it. There seems to be no power whatsoever to both the gauges and radio (also, trunk wont open with remote but don't know if it could be related). The radio and all other electronics are stock. Only mods are Corsa catback and an SLP airbox lid.
Aside from the radio and gauges, the car runs/starts/drives great. the fuses are all good and I even replaced them to be sure. What could be wrong? I want to try avoid going to the dealer and spending big bucks if I could do it myself. Any and all help is much appreciated!!
Aside from the radio and gauges, the car runs/starts/drives great. the fuses are all good and I even replaced them to be sure. What could be wrong? I want to try avoid going to the dealer and spending big bucks if I could do it myself. Any and all help is much appreciated!!
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#8
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Did anyone figure out what was causing these problems?
Hey guys I know its been quite awhile since this thread started but Im hoping at least one of you figured out what the problem was and can tell me what to do and how to fix it. Ive got a 1999 Trans Am that these exact same things just stopped working. Everything was working fine when I parked it for the night but the next morning, when I went out to leave, the hatch wouldnt open with remote or button on the dash. My radio wouldnt come on and my speedometer, tach and fuel guage werent working either! Ive checked EVERYTHING I know to and cant figure out wtf is wrong! PLEASE help me if you can in ANY way. Thanks alot guys. I hope I hear from this SOON!!!!
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Silly but did you check every and I mean every fuse?
Is anything plugged into the cigg lighter?
It should only happen if a wire gets grounded. Hard part is figuring out where. I grounded my power wire when taking apart the lighter to use for a purge spot. I didn't disconnect the battery.
It cakes my gauge like above. I reran a wire to battery that supports the main wires that support the cluster and voila.
Is anything plugged into the cigg lighter?
It should only happen if a wire gets grounded. Hard part is figuring out where. I grounded my power wire when taking apart the lighter to use for a purge spot. I didn't disconnect the battery.
It cakes my gauge like above. I reran a wire to battery that supports the main wires that support the cluster and voila.
#12
considering I dont even have a trans am. so I never had this problem I looked through alldata and from overall conclusion kept screaming at me is you got theft deterrent conflicts caused by a faulty BCM all because of the the theft deterrent which is not a separate module but it inside the BCM itself. Here, check out this diagram of the BCM has these security outputs at the same time it shows it accepting the voltage from the gauge fuse while it's controlling your hatch release:
What I would do if I was you is get a new bcm if you are frustrated enough. My camaro's BCM looks like it's really really easy to replace. it's on the passenger kick panel covered up by a simple piece of vinyl. I could plug and play a new one in 10mins. Also, the procedures to program a new one looks really easy to as long as you get a brand new, never used BCM. Here's the procedures:
i just say get a brand new one cause it says "this can only be done once for the life of the module" so I wouldn't chance it on a used one that's already been programmed before. Like I said, i never had your problem before. i just wanted to go through the effort since I read on ls1tech before but never interacted with it.
What I would do if I was you is get a new bcm if you are frustrated enough. My camaro's BCM looks like it's really really easy to replace. it's on the passenger kick panel covered up by a simple piece of vinyl. I could plug and play a new one in 10mins. Also, the procedures to program a new one looks really easy to as long as you get a brand new, never used BCM. Here's the procedures:
i just say get a brand new one cause it says "this can only be done once for the life of the module" so I wouldn't chance it on a used one that's already been programmed before. Like I said, i never had your problem before. i just wanted to go through the effort since I read on ls1tech before but never interacted with it.
Last edited by LQ9-Muscle; 10-05-2013 at 12:40 AM. Reason: wanted to use a picture link and not a url
#13
Ungrounded Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Before spending $314 at the dealer for a new BCM (yes, I know you can get it cheaper online but it's still expensive), I would want to be very sure that was the source of the problem. And the BCM has nothing to do with the instrument cluster gauges.
First thing - replace the GAUGES fuse. Don't ever rely on a visual inspection of an old fuse, they can be blown even when they look fine. If we assume that all the symptoms are caused by a single problem then the GAUGES fuse is the only common point among all the circuits involved. Otherwise, you must have more than one issue and it's just a coincidence that they happened at the same time.
First thing - replace the GAUGES fuse. Don't ever rely on a visual inspection of an old fuse, they can be blown even when they look fine. If we assume that all the symptoms are caused by a single problem then the GAUGES fuse is the only common point among all the circuits involved. Otherwise, you must have more than one issue and it's just a coincidence that they happened at the same time.
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
my sister had a similar issue... 2002 since 15k miles radio clock dot lights would always be doing something fuzzy making 8's look like 3's etc and guages would always be jumpy..so last years with under 40k miles i had to replace the alternator... and the problem stopped. she's the only owner and i'm really the only person who has ever worked on the car expect for shops to install tires...
#17
Thanks sk8h8r!