underdog51

iTrader: (5)

Where do i run the steam vent port too? I have done alot of searching on the only thread that might have info the pics are not available anymore. thanks

scott

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

back into the coolant system; fbodies have an inlet on the radiator, vettes use an overflow tank, some people use a fitting that goes inline in the rad hose

69-er

I researched this briefly and it seems I remember reading that the water pump is also another location. I don't know if it's on the suction or discharge side.

I'm trying to keep the engine compartment as clean as possible and a hose to the water pump would be less clutter than to the radiator.

pajamasam

iTrader: (6)

If you run it to the top of the water pump you have to drill and tap it for a fitting. Theres a good thread on here somewhere about it

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

yeah i forgot about that, you can drill and tap the tstat housing as well

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I did. The top of the water pump is higher that the exit for the steam vents so air will bleed out. I use a 11/32" drill and a 1/8" pipe tap. I bought the fitting from Oreillys auto in their brake fitting section behind the counter. Its a 1/8" to 3/16" hose fitting. I run the tap in a couple of times a little deeper each time until I got the right height from the fitting so it wouldnt interfere with the throttle body. Hope this helps!!!

[IMG][/IMG]

underdog51

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a lot guys. I am using an LS6 in a Brunton Stalker, so i flip the intake around backwards so i have no problem with TB. Does it have to go up from that source to vent the air? Or will the thermostat housing be ok? I would like to be able to drill and tap without worrying about metal flakes. Or will the overflow tank work? I am little confused about the steam ports operation on the motor.

Scott

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

Go for it, Scott.

the 4 ports on the front/rear of the heads are for heated coolant to leave the heads; so any of those places will be fine. I would have done the tstat housing for the same reasons (ease of tapping/cleaning/etc) but my radiator has the inlet for it stock (some wip shots in my ta thread in my sig)

definitely post some pics as you go along, one of my friends/mentors did a variant of a stalker and its one of my favorites

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Just make sure you are working off of the higher end of the engine. My engine is at a negative 3-5 degrees so the front is at the highest point. You could run the vents front and back as many have in the past. My engine used the front from the factory as it was set in the truck in the same fashion as I have it my car. The higher you vent it the better whether you use the thermostat or whatever. Air likes to go up not down.

underdog51

iTrader: (5)

I am thinking that I will tap the thermostat housing and when i fill the cooling system to make sure I bleed of the lines. I have been taking lots of photos. I will post them up soon. thanks again

tails8

iTrader: (7)

Same here. My engine sits at a negative 2 degrees. I blocked off the rear ports and ran the vents on the front ports. Didn't tap my WP cause I had an inlet on my radiator for the line..

Tails

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty easy to jack up the front end when filling the motor. Once you start driving up and down hills a few degrees of tilt isn't going to matter one way or the other.

Keep it simple.

Andy1

I would avoid venting into the thermostat housing, as you will be partially short-circuiting the cooling system by routing hot water back into the motor (thermostat on an LS1 is on the suction side). Venting into the waterpump outlet, or like a stock system would be the most desireable, IMO.

Andy1

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Here's what I did in somewhat vivid detail:

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I purchased the radiator hose bleeder from Jags That Run too. Nice simple solution.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

^^those were the two guys i was thinking of when i said the radiator hose thing

MikeJTR

I appreciate you showing the installation of our part, as well as the comment about its appearance under the hood.

We designed the part as small as possible because of the limited amount of space with many engine swaps.

Also, we make these parts inhouse, with our own equipment (CNC lathe and CNC vertical machining center). We use thread gages to verify the npt threads are the correct depth.

There are similar products sold on ebay (and made in China), but they are bulkier, and the npt threads do not meet the gage standards.

Furthermore, when you factor in that the parts on ebay don't include the fittings, our part is less costly to purchase. I mention this because there have been other threads where people purchased something on ebay because of the perceived lower cost.