stealthbox
03-10-2011, 12:31 PM
#3
What volume do you need? I designed my own for a 10" sub on the passenger side. I had to utilize the PS due to the volume requirements and the volume lost using 3/4" MDF (I didn't want to fool with fiberglass). Anyway, the box has an internal volume of 0.78 cubic feet and I have cut sheets and drawings you could utilize and tweak. You could just cut a larger speaker hole if the volume works for you. This was also designed with the front panel to sit in front of the plastic trim piece versus inside and underneath (See pictures below). Ignore the putty in the construction picture. I was going to make it look seamless but decided it was too much hassle if I ever needed to tear everything apart.
03-10-2011, 11:54 PM
#4
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i would deff buy it but dnt really have the money to buy one but would if i wasnt chasin the penies since i have to rebuild my LS1...if u could possibly send me the template tht u used maybe
nd the box looks real nice i will have to admit i have a 12" kenwood tht i used in my single cab s-10 b4 i bought my ws6 so its a shallow sub would tht make a big diff in the template nd demincions i would have to make
nd the box looks real nice i will have to admit i have a 12" kenwood tht i used in my single cab s-10 b4 i bought my ws6 so its a shallow sub would tht make a big diff in the template nd demincions i would have to make
03-11-2011, 08:29 AM
#5
I'm not here selling anything... I will give you the drawings.
What exact sub do you plan on running? Each sub requires a different amount of internal volume for a sealed enclosure. Also, it doesn't necessarily need to be a shallow mount unit. There's nothing shallow about the 10" sub I used. As far as the front piece goes, I just made a cardboard template instead of using the front panel in my drawings.
What exact sub do you plan on running? Each sub requires a different amount of internal volume for a sealed enclosure. Also, it doesn't necessarily need to be a shallow mount unit. There's nothing shallow about the 10" sub I used. As far as the front piece goes, I just made a cardboard template instead of using the front panel in my drawings.
03-11-2011, 05:32 PM
#6
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the sub i am planning on runnig is a KENWOOD KFC-WS12
yea true tht is a massive sub. i am running the shallow mount cause i already hive it so y not use it right
yea true tht is a massive sub. i am running the shallow mount cause i already hive it so y not use it right
03-13-2011, 06:48 PM
#7
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I could really use those drawings, looking to do a stealthbox on drivers side to accomodate a 12" can you email them to rdb429@gmail.com. thanks
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03-14-2011, 10:52 AM
#8
Ghost, your sub requires about 0.86 ft^3 or 1488 in^3 of internal volume. This box is designed for 0.813 ft^3 or 1405 in^3 at most without internal bracing. You will either need to make it a little bit larger or at the very least add some polyfil so the box appears larger to the driver.
Attached are pages 1-5 for the enclosure I designed. Now, I had to make 1 tweak to my prints and I was trying to figure it out, but I cannot remember exactly what I had to change. I don't think it was anything major though. Also, while the dimensions may appear detailed, they are not 100% useful in that sense. Since I drew these with the designer and fabricator as one, I have omitted some that may not be clear to you. You need to use your head and fill in the blanks if possible. The mitered edges shown are viewed as solids so if you can see the edge, make sure you cut it the same way. I did not note all of the mitered angles in every view, again, use your head and you can see what the angles are with dimensions in other views. Again, this was a fast print and I did not go into great detail for these prints. I'm not going to edit them into proper dimensions, you should be able to make due.
Now, this was originally designed for 0.78 ft^3 or 1348 in^3 and the raw internal volume listed above is without any kind of bracing. I took this box and intended to add an additional support ring and support bars to reduce the volume and strengthen the box. You can chose to ignore them if you like, I left them out.
As for the front panel, I made a cardboard template and cut that out to match the contour of the panel and cabin. You will need to do the same. You will also need to modify the driver hole to accommodate a larger driver if you are using 12". Make sure it is centered and will clear before you cut.
One last thing, these angles and pieces are relatively complex. Make sure you measure two times, three times, four times, whatever; as many times as it takes before you cut. This box will only be as sealed and as strong as the quality of your cuts and they are so easy to screw up. Ask me how I know...
Attached are pages 1-5 for the enclosure I designed. Now, I had to make 1 tweak to my prints and I was trying to figure it out, but I cannot remember exactly what I had to change. I don't think it was anything major though. Also, while the dimensions may appear detailed, they are not 100% useful in that sense. Since I drew these with the designer and fabricator as one, I have omitted some that may not be clear to you. You need to use your head and fill in the blanks if possible. The mitered edges shown are viewed as solids so if you can see the edge, make sure you cut it the same way. I did not note all of the mitered angles in every view, again, use your head and you can see what the angles are with dimensions in other views. Again, this was a fast print and I did not go into great detail for these prints. I'm not going to edit them into proper dimensions, you should be able to make due.
Now, this was originally designed for 0.78 ft^3 or 1348 in^3 and the raw internal volume listed above is without any kind of bracing. I took this box and intended to add an additional support ring and support bars to reduce the volume and strengthen the box. You can chose to ignore them if you like, I left them out.
As for the front panel, I made a cardboard template and cut that out to match the contour of the panel and cabin. You will need to do the same. You will also need to modify the driver hole to accommodate a larger driver if you are using 12". Make sure it is centered and will clear before you cut.
One last thing, these angles and pieces are relatively complex. Make sure you measure two times, three times, four times, whatever; as many times as it takes before you cut. This box will only be as sealed and as strong as the quality of your cuts and they are so easy to screw up. Ask me how I know...
03-14-2011, 10:57 AM
#9
One of the things I changed in the drawings was the dimension of 5-1/2" for PN 5. That is if you were viewing it from above and measure across. Ignore this dimension and follow the 6-7/32" for the OAL of the piece.
03-15-2011, 08:33 AM
#11
06-11-2011, 01:58 PM
#16
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If your making one for each side & the subs are facing each other, it somehow cuts out some of the base... Don't know why it is, but I learned that when I put 2 12" subs in the back of my truck before, face to face, & they were about 38" apart.
