Changing the spark plug wires, have some questions
03-10-2011, 03:47 PM
#1
Changing the spark plug wires, have some questions Im changing the wires out on my car soon but i just got done looking at what all i have to get around under there to do it. Drivers side is no problem but the passenger seems tough, if I remove a couple pulleys will I be able to access them better? Not trying to be dumb but I know some of you guys have your own "tricks" to doing things and if theres anything that makes it easier I'd like to know, thanks!
03-10-2011, 05:16 PM
#3
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i had to remove the alternator but i didnt have to remove the starter and when you do the wire for cl 7 make sure you get it right were its not touching the manifold or you will be under there changing the wires again have it took me 5hrs start to finish and a hole lot of gripping
03-10-2011, 07:38 PM
#4
Taking the starter off will help just as much as taking the gas cap off. If you want to make a week long project out of it, pull the alternator bracket off the engine. If you just want a new set of wires on, a long pair of needle nose pliers is your friend and there is no need to take anything else off.
03-10-2011, 08:39 PM
#6
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03-11-2011, 07:49 AM
#9
With the stock Kmember, the starter can be a pain to pull out.
But it's actually easier than trying to reach wires 5 and 7 if you have AC LOL
Doubly so if you have longtubes.
Oh, and disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before you play with/near the starter and alternator.
People seem to learn this the hard way a lot (spark show, usually non-fatal)
But it's actually easier than trying to reach wires 5 and 7 if you have AC LOL
Doubly so if you have longtubes.
Oh, and disconnect the negative terminal on your battery before you play with/near the starter and alternator.
People seem to learn this the hard way a lot (spark show, usually non-fatal)
03-11-2011, 08:59 AM
#10
Last 2 times I did them this is how it went on the pass side:
8mm wires in stock routing across the acc bracket face, around the corner into the snap loom on the side; removed the alternator, took a couple hours, lost sight of 4 & 6 and crossed them, discovered on startup.
8.2mm wires routed slightly up from opti and behind the acc bracket. Did it with the car on ramps so I could tie the wires from underneath- took 10-12 minutes. Almost as easy as the driver's side. No danger of > 7mm wire popping out of the groove and getting carved by the PS pulley...
8mm wires in stock routing across the acc bracket face, around the corner into the snap loom on the side; removed the alternator, took a couple hours, lost sight of 4 & 6 and crossed them, discovered on startup.
8.2mm wires routed slightly up from opti and behind the acc bracket. Did it with the car on ramps so I could tie the wires from underneath- took 10-12 minutes. Almost as easy as the driver's side. No danger of > 7mm wire popping out of the groove and getting carved by the PS pulley...
Last edited by Gojira94; 03-11-2011 at 08:59 AM. Reason: typo
03-11-2011, 06:09 PM
#13
I'd drop the Y pipe on the pass side, but leave the starter in place. Also, you can get the pass side wires through the loom behind the p/s pump using a putty knife to press them in place, but you need to be really careful so you don't puncture the wire. OR, you could pull the pump, which makes routing the wires a LOT easier, but loosening/tightening the pressure hose can be annoying.
Anyway, the job is rather tedious, no matter how you slice it....
Anyway, the job is rather tedious, no matter how you slice it....
