Race4Keep

I’m looking for tips on how I can “pre-lube” the engine before I start it. I have the car in storage for the winter and ideally I would love to have that oil flowing before I start that engine that has been sitting for 6 months. I have thought of getting the oil cooler adapter for the LS1 and put an electric pump on it, that’s about the only way I can think of.

Just wish I could connect up a drill to the distributor like the old days (at least I think that’s how you could do it) I’m not real knowledgeable on cars.

Thanks for the ideas!
Brian

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

De-pressurize the fuel rail at the schrader valve. Pull the injector and fuel pump fuses (engine compartment) and spin the motor until your oil pressure comes up. Re-install fuses....fire it up. No taps...no knocks....just like you started it this morning <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

<small>[ February 26, 2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: LowETz ]</small>

Drainplug

If you are planning storage as a yearly thing invest in a preoiler set up there's several on the market. Moroso makes the cheapest/simplest set up there's another that makes a serious set up that they use on rescue vehicles. You can also use it after shut down to prevent the oil coking on the bearings. Good luck!

Roadkill

LowETz: If you're going to spin the motor up unoiled... why not just start it and not worry about it? Doesn't seem like spinning it dry would be any different than starting it dry would it? (dry meaning unoiled.. if that makes any sense <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> )

Tin Indian

Since I was stationed in Korea for 4 years while my car was in storage, I have let my car set for up to 2 years at a time. Here is what you need to do (at least the easyest)

1. Make sure the battery is charged

2. Pull the fuel pump and PCM fuses

3. Crank the engine for about a minute after the oil pressure rises.

4. Replace the fuses and start

5. Let it idle for about 5 minutes before driving

After doing this, my car started with no lifter noise or problems.

Ron,

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

RoadKill......you have a good point but, in every instance I've experienced whether it be a motor that has sat over an extended amount of time, or a cam/head swap, or even an oil change, using the method I descibed(if a pre oiler is not available)helped to eliminate any/all taps/knocks or unwanted noise at initial fire up <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

There is not the same load on the bearings using this method as there is when the motor fires. Think about how long your motor is actually running w/out oil pressure after an oil change. I don't know about you, but I don't like that.

Basically what you're doing is priming the pump and getting lubrication to all components under a minimal load situation.

Do a H/C swap and fire it up. Even w/generous amounts of assembly lube, the valve train sounds like it's about to self destruct <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> When I go for the initial fire up after a H/C swap using this method, it fires right up and is quiet from the get go <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I've used this method on all my motors in the past, and have seen that upon a teardown, the bearings look suprisingly good for the abuse they underwent. This is just my opinion...your results may vary <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

When the engine is turned over with the starter (not running) all the internals are just along for the ride....they coast and really don't have any loads on them.

When the engine is running, the internals are actually under load (pistons push on rods, which push on rod bearings, which push on crank, which put on main bearings, etc....).

So pre-oiling give everything a chance to get oiled in a "low load" situation.

Chris

DavidRey

I have the same concern when it comes to starting a car that has been sitting for long periods. Besides pulling some fuses couldn't I just turn the crankshaft manually since the oil pump is driven by it? Or is this a no no? Also, does squirting some lucas fuel injector cleaner into the cylinders sound like a good Idea? My car has been sitting pretty much all fall and winter like 5 or 6 months now. The cams are pretty dry so I worry about all the other internals I don't want to start her up with lack of lubrication.

technicalninja

iTrader: (1)

Holy necro-post!
No to the cleaner! Bad idea.
How do you know your cams are dry? Do you have multiple cams?
You can turn the crank all you want. You won't hurt it, you won't help it either...
I recently started a 02 LS1 camaro that had sat for 5 years. I just tried the starter to see if it would even turn. It started instantly and oil pressure came up faster than it took me to look at the gauge. Surprised the crap out of me.
Spinning it over with the ignition/injection disabled is a good idea. Do that and you should be fine...

cruisin'73

iTrader: (8)

Here is a great CC article I found where they used an old Gen I oil pump to prime an engine. Might be to much work for something that is only going to get used every few years, but still pretty nifty!

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

Would there be any benefit to pulling the plugs in addition to pulling the fuel pump fuse/relay? Seems like it would crank even easier with even less load.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Accusump?

Cosmos

iTrader: (15)

I just pull the coil pack plug on each side, rotate the motor with the key. I do that a few times then hook the plugs back up, start it and let it idle for 5-10 min

mebuildit

Or if you want to make sure you have everything covered in oil before you start it. Fill up the entire crankcase with oil, then drain it all out and put the correct oil back in it. Use cheap oil to fill the whole engine to coat everything.

Just a thought and my .02

CLRD4TO

iTrader: (4)

I do exactly what SLowETz said for startup after winter storage. The internals arent actually "dry", there is still a film of oil on everything. If not, you likely have rust problems too.

One thing I have wondered about is if compressed valve springs fatigue with a high lift cam during long term storage. Im sure they do but probably by such a tiny amount that wouldnt even be noticeable.

DavidRey

I've heard some folks squirt a little bit of oil in the cylinders to sort of prime them. what would be the difference between lucas fuel injector cleaner and regular motor oil besides that motor oil will give off that heavy burnt smell?

technicalninja

iTrader: (1)

Injector cleaner is a solvent with no lubrication qualities.
I'd say no to a heavy oil as well as it may not get all the way around the bore.
Personally I'd use something like WD/40 or PB/blaster as it's aerosol and should reach most of the perimeter.

For the most part just turning the engine over while having the fuel or ignition or both deactivated is the way to go.

Anything less than 1 year static I'd just verify the crank can turn with a wrench, deactivate fuel/spark, spin the critter till the oil light or pressure gauge shows a pulse (moves at all) and go for a light off. I wouldn't take the time to pull plugs and squirt anything in the chambers.

Now on the SS I mentioned I WAS planning on doing a full resurrection including WD/40 in the chambers, new plugs, removing ALL of the 5 year old fuel and adding new.

I didn't realize the body damage made it imposable to add fuel. I had 5 gallons of fresh fuel in a can and 3 empty cans with me for what was in the tank. I'd researched and had the tools to bypass the FP relay and disco the fuel line. I had a piece of FI hose to attach to the line to get it into the empty tanks with as little spillage as possible. I had fire extinguishers with me. I was loaded for bear!

After determining that ALL my preparations were for naught as new fuel could not be added I didn't even verify it could turn with a wrench (was pissed and lazy!) I cycled the ignition to on several times and left it in the on position for 3-4 min while I checked around the engine bay for fuel leaks and any "rodent modified" wiring than might be smoldering.

I decided to hit it just to see if it would even turn. The original owner Mike said "make sure you see oil pressure before it starts" to which I replied "this critter doesn't have a snowball's chance, I just want to see if it will turn". I had given up on trying for an actual start.

Rotate key to start, It started within 1 revolution, INSTANTLY! Immediately rotate key to OFF and figure out just exactly where that OP gauge was on the dash board! Restart, once again instantly, instant OP, engine ran nice. Run for 5 min while watching for leaks (worried bout fuel leaks on a 5 year static FS).

I called my Dad and the og owner called his son, we both said "it's ALIVE" and held phones to the CME. Was pretty cool. With a bit of redneck engineering I was able to drive it out of Mike's driveway and on to a suck-em-up truck for transport.

It's to be an organ donor for my 98 M3.