Irish350

iTrader: (14)

So, im about to grab a bunch of parts for my swap, including most of what id need for my accessories. What im wondering is: how do you guys place PS in the list of priorities? This is for my 65 mustang, so itll be like 2900 lbs, but it will be a DD.

Should i keep the manual setup its got or grab a PS pump/reservior too?

RATBOX

iTrader: (26)

I say leave it off, in a car that light it's not bad at all to steer assuming you have a manual rack or at least looped the power rack's lines together.
I was going to install PS on my fox swap and I scrapped the idea for several reasons:
Less drag on the motor, less stuff in my way when I'm working on it, less weight on the front of the car, less fluid to worry about, and the LS1 looks cleaner with out it. My .02

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

yeah if i stay manual itll keep the factory steering (assuming it fits w the swap) unless i decide i wanna upgrade it (rack and pinion or power)

RATBOX

iTrader: (26)

Forgot to mention also, the GM pump is a lot higher PSI output than the Ford rack can handle, so it'll blow rack seals or at least steer real twitchy. You're probably already aware, but for me I decided I didn't see the benefits out weighing the trouble to make it work.

ebk06

iTrader: (5)

I took mine out of my 91 mustang. Im running 18x9 up front and really its not that bad. Even my wife can turn the wheel going really slow. Of course going back to a power steering car is very weird now lol

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

For a DD, I would pony up for PS. Fighting manual steering in a parking lot sucks. If you are going for performance oriented suspension with more aggressive caster and wide tires, manual steering will be more difficult to manuever. If you're going cookie cutters and little caster, manual will be more manageable.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

I did read that forever ago, but its probably been a year since i forgot; so i appreciate the heads up. Ive only seen expensive flaming river setups in mustangs (that werent factory power), so i wonder if any gm setups would fit 'easily'. I guess i see your point

I know you spent a ton of time on your accessories. Did you find that gm setups (fbody) were wider than aftermarket/creative alternatives? i figure a vintage air ac setup will help on that side, but i wonder if an f-body mounted alternator/ps setup would clear the shock towers..

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Easy enough fix for that. $25 bucks

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...isplayId=24682

tails8

iTrader: (7)

I'd say keep the manual rack. What's the ratio on the rack you're using? 18:1 15:1? Either way the 15 might be a little twitchy. I have an 18:1 in the Cobra.

I'll shoot you a PM of a guy who sells and electric PS kit that might work if you choose to go that route instead. I'm thinking about doing it on the cobra. No worries about the drag on the motor..

Tails

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Thing is, there aren't ANY LS motors built w/o PS. To run a manual rack you'll need to delete the PS pump and come up with an alternate belt system. Something to consider either way...

arthropraxis

I can't find the link right now but all you need to do is remove the power steering pump, replace the smooth alternator tensioner pulley with a grooved one (put a washer behind it so it doesn't rub the alternator housing) and put on a new belt. IIRC the belt needs to be 55.5 inches.

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

kwik performance has alternator only brackets

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

on a car with a P/S gear "not a rack" does looping the line at the gear make it easier to turn? or just keep the oil in it.

RATBOX

iTrader: (26)

Ya, I got a pulley from NAPA. Was from a later model 300C if I remember correctly. Belt measurement was 54", snug. I didn't like the idea of running any foreign washers, plus when I mocked mine with one the pulley wasn't perfectly aligned with the others. So I just used the factory shim/washers front and back and to avoid interference just slightly notched the ps bracket. Worked out slick and my belt alignment is **** on. Cost me a total of $25 w/belt and the smooth side has a lot of contact with the waterpump as it sits now.
Good question, I'd think it'd work and make it steer easier. Just a guess, though.

arthropraxis

Yes, looping the lines and keeping the fluid in the rack makes a de-powered rack easier to turn than a dry de-powered rack. Lot of talk about this on the 944 Porsche forums because of the notorious leaking power steering system it has.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I say keep the manual box. I have used one for 17 years without a hang up. The only problems I have ever run into was when I had a spool in the rearend. Get the factory steering wheel as it is larger in diameter and will make it easier to steer. As far as brackets, I bought a unit off of a 2008 corvette that can be used either way p/s or not. I got the idler pulley, tensioner and pulley and the alternator bracket for $200. Kwik has a similar bracket and will prolly be cheaper in the long run considering I had to space the tensioner and alternator bracket out away since the F body balancer sticks out further. And also consider with the Kwik you can retain your factory alternator as for me I have to buy the corvette alternator. I like the corvette alternator since it has the clutch pulley which eliminates the harmonics in the belt. It will virtually run smooth rather than flop around. Since the alternator is spaced away from the centerline further the less harmonics the better. And if you decide to run the p/s later this bracket I purchased will accept the corvette p/s pump.

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