talon2008

iTrader: (2)

Well, here is the deal - I am trying to save a few benjamins (and have a project for my welding fabrication class at college) and use a stock 96-04 4.6 mustang k member and stock 4.6 mounts.

The question I have for you guys is what is exactly needed to put a stock 4.6 k member into a fox body? I have found what I need to do to modify the stock 4.6 mounts to fit the lsx block but I am not sure what is needed to put the 4.6 k member in the fox chassis itself. If anyone could please help me out it would be greatly appreciated.

On another side note for this same class I will be using our cnc laser cutting table to make lsx exhaust flanges out of 304 ss and using 304 ss schedule 40 1 7/8" piping to make my own headers around the stock 4.6 k member.

Thanks again and appreciate any help you guys can offer!

SupraNatural

iTrader: (2)

So you want to put a LSX into a Fox Body using a K member for a 4.6?? Do yourself a favor and buy the AJE tubular K-Member for a Fox Body with LSX mounts.

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

I do not think you realize. I am not worried about having the skills to fab simple mounts. I made this manifold, any only bought the collector. I have access to a cnc plasma table to cut any shapes needed.

Nor did I ask about the AJE K member, I know thats an option and I know there are many other options. If I wanted information on them I would have asked. I didn't though, I asked about the 4.6 stock K member - so lets keep it to that.

SupraNatural

iTrader: (2)

Have fun.

zipster

iTrader: (5)

Talon,

I read this link a while ago and this is what made me do a LSX/fox. I also have rad someone used the 5.0 kmember and fabbed up motor mounts. Its more of a stick the engine in and see what need to be done.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/mixe...o-fox-car.html

I went round and round about the oil pan. Even cut and welded a truck pan. I ended up with a fbody pan.

Good luck and post pics, if anyone says it CANT be done, has not tried hard enough.

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Zipster, the thing is I KNOW a 4.6 k member with modified mounts WILL work to mount a lsx block onto.

The question I am asking here is what exactly is needed to drop a stock 96-04 4.6 k member into a foxbody?

Thanks again,

zipster

iTrader: (5)

I personally have never bolted a 96-04 k member into a fox, I cant see why it would not fit. After all, the frame is the same 79-04 as far as I know. The ball joints and spindles are different and so are the brakes. They all swap, so, I would say yes it will work.

do you have the car and k member already?

5.3LStang

The SN95 K member will bolt right in your fox. The bolts on the frame rails are the same from '79-94. You will want to use the Fox A-arms and a set of offset rack bushings to keep the wheels fairly close to stock Fox. This is what we did when my buddy put a Ford V10 in his '86 Mustang. Havent had any issues yet

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

I have the car, was waiting to see if a 96-04 k member would work before I go pick up my buddys 02 stock 4.6 kmember. He wants 20$ for it, and 20$ for the mounts that only need 1 bolt hole cut off and add about an inch and reweld back together. The way I see it is 40$ and modifying my own mounts and saving hundreds by NOT using AJE Mounts is most definitely worth it.

Dman03GT

You don't have to do anything to a 4.6 96-04 K member to bolt it into a fox other than elongate two of the bolt holes at the back near the firewall.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I like the ingenuity and ive read this myself its been covered up top. I went with the AJE causes its a good bit lighter, it fit perfect, they make long tubes specifically for this kmember and for 350 bucks i felt it was a good investment. Good luck on your build.

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

I 110% agree with you on the light weight perfect fit business, 1 thing I failed to mention is that its kind of a deal where someone told me I cannot do it so I HAVE to do it deal. My goals are a 10 second all motor car while keeping the budget at 4k.

car - 86 lx notch purchased for 300$ w/ blown headgasket - sold 5.0-t5 for 450 so im ahead 150.
k member - 40$
ecu/harness/fuse block (2001 truck 5.3) - 80$
lq9 long block from coils to oil pan - 800$ - guessing can sell the parts I dont need such as oil pan/heads/intake for at LEAST 200-250$ so block well say is 600$
th350 with rmvb and 3600 stall - 400$
used 90mm cable driven tb - 200$
l92 heads complete = 400$
ls3 intake/rails/injectors = 200$
texas speed ms4 cam package 599$ used.
corvette fpr/filter = 35$
used walboro 255 = 50$

Total thus far =

2455$, granted I am still missing some things but if you ask me this is going to be one hell of a car for 2500$ and granted not all the parts are brand new never been used, but still in very good condition.

On another side note, if people take their time and watch the classifieds you can score some hellacious deals.

Thanks, and this build is most definitely for all the people that say you cannot do a lsx fox build for under 10k.

edit : add 150$ for balancing my driveshaft (i already had ford rear yoke and chevy th350 yoke, just needed cut/balanced)

trav-tech

iTrader: (1)

You could probably save $5.00 if you cut and weld the d shaft yourself and just pay to have it balanced.

zapp109

iTrader: (13)

you can do it for under 10k for sure but its all on what u want, your doing it for under 10k with used parts, with no warranty on most of them im sure, if you wanna go 10s all motor well you have a good chance at being close too it depending on how much your ripping out the car. My car went 10.9 with 243 heads and ls6 manifold with Nitrous pistons on a easy launch. But goodluck with it all, i have just realized recently tho if your tryin to do it the cheap way it can still cost alot.

mulletnotch

iTrader: (2)

Modular K member works fine and most of the time you don't even need to elongate the holes... Depends on K member, I haven't ever done a stock 4.6 K in a fox LOL - have always done tubular k members.

One thing you mentioned is needing to just lengthen the one "leg" on the modular motor mount by an inch for the back hole in the block. This will NOT be the case for the iron LQ4 and LQ9 blocks as the iron blocks do not have the 3rd bolt hole in the block further down/towards the rear of the block.

The iron block has four bolt holes in it for the motor mount which are nearly equal distance from each other or pretty much "square". What I've done is use a steel plate that is the length of the stock or aftermarket ford modular mount - I prefer solid mounts personally. Take that plate and drill the four holes in the plate to match the holes in the block and once you've done this take the modular mount and weld it to the plate. Once welded drill through from the plate into the modular mount to make sure the holes go clean/straight thru as the holes for the front two are just baaarely off.

Had several people say this will cause issues by raising the motor slightly but frankly the added height (which is VERY minimal) only helps keep the pan above the rack and K member if anything. F body pan is what you need. Truck pan will work but hangs low and the GMPP "muscle car pan" hangs low AND I think the front of the pan is a touch lower than the F body pan which may not clear the rack. Not positive on this but stick to the F body pan and dont look back.

You will need to take the steering shaft and lengthen it a bit. This is the cheapest and there is no downside to doing so as far as strength and/or fitment. If the car is a four cylinder the shaft is solid, you can cut it and then find some tubing that the shaft fits inside of - cut to length and rosette weld the "sleeve" as well as the ends.

Hope this helps. Good luck with it - you'll love the end product! Let me know if you need anything further at all.

TurdFerguson

This should be a sweet build.
When are you going to have it running?
I want to build something "similar" later this spring.

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

Your telling the wrong guy about warranties/cheap parts. I owned a DSM for 7 years and have seen more stuff break in 1 day then most lsx people see break in 10 years. This N/A stuff cannot be THAT hard to keep together, no boost leaks, no couplers exploding, no insane fueling setups needed, the list could go on for days. But bottom line is, I really do not care about warranties and I am EXPECTING things to break. CANNOT be worse than owning a DSM by buying used ls parts. I promise you that.

talon2008

iTrader: (2)

Mulletnotch, that was pretty much exactly what I have been looking for!!! Thanks and its very much appreciated.

mulletnotch

iTrader: (2)

No problem. Let me know if you need anything else....