etmateo

My A/C doesn't blow cold whatsoever. I had it charged a few years ago so I am curious to know if this is normal. I have an appointment to have the system checked so that will make my mind up for me. If the compressor is shot, what type should I go with? I have read numerous posts stating the hardware store compressors are junk. I just called the dealership and was given a quote of $725 for a new compressor. Anywhere else I can go with that won't break down in a year? Thanks

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Your compressor case seal is probably gone and very common on the fbody compressors as they get older. Once the case seal is gone the system will not hold R-134 and it will leak out. Your best bet (and what the shop will do) is run some dye in the system with the new charge to findout exactly where it is leaking. Now if they find that is the case and you need a new comp, your statement about hardware/parts store compressors is not true. I've installed 2 (one on my suburban and the other my firebird) from Advanced auto (factory air brand) and they work flawlessly, even in the summer heat here in Houston. They also have 2 year unlimited warranties and are good quality. As long as you don't get a reman unit you should be fine, just pay the extra 20-30 for a new one and it's not a problem. If you have the shop do it they are going to get one from their parts supplier as well unless you pay extra for them to source a new delco/delphi unit and as you said it's going to cost you.

etmateo

Now that you mention, I do remember the mechanic mentioning that there was R-134 leaking from my compressor. Should I still have the test done to find the leak? Will they be able to find/fix the leak without replacing the compressor? Or should I cancel the test and go straight to replacing the compressor? Sorry for all the questions. Thank you in advance

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Mostlikely the compressor - 2 major leak areas - case seal and front shaft seal. Things get old and wear out and leak. If you want have them diagnose it that is fine, however if you want you can do it yourself very easily. Just go to your local AP store and grab a couple of cans of 134A (get one with a fill hose) and also a dye kit with a UV light. Add the dye thru the Low pressure port and then add the cans of 134A to the low port as well (with car running and AC on full). Once you get the second can going in your should hear the compressor clutch engage as the PCM turns it on when it senses the pressure in the lines. Run it for a day or so and then get under the car with the UV light and glasses and look for the leak. Since you put the dye in there it will show up like a giant yellow/green glob or line where it is coming out. As stated most likely it's the compressor, but you could find leaks elsewhere as well, so look everywhere with the light. Best to do in the dark as it really stands out. Not that hard to do and will help you pinpoint the issue for much cheaper than the shop will charge you and then you can decide where to go from there. The only downside is you are going to loose that 134A charge you put in there as it will leak out or will have to be evacuated if you do the compressor yourself.

etmateo

Instead of wasting money on the test, I figured I would go ahead and replace the compressor. I found an OEM compressor on gmparts.com for $375. Is there anything else I should replace at the same time? How much (ballpark figure) am I looking for labor if I provide the parts? And does anybody recommend any shops that live in Jacksonville, Florida? Thanks.

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Might talk to the shop first as most reputable shops won't let you bring them parts as they cannot guarantee them and they also want to make money off upsale of parts.

etmateo

I spoke to one shop and they gave me the, "We can't guarantee speech." I don't want to spend $1300 on A/C repair when they are doubling the price of the compressor. What else should I replace to make sure I do it right?

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

If you choose just to replace the compressor, then at bare minimum you must replace the Drier/Accumalator, flush the lines, and if you have a post 97 car then the Orifice tube. What year is your car? Also, if you are pretty handy with tools this is not that hard a job and can be done in just a couple of hours in your garage/driveway. Once you flush the lines and replace the compressor then you can take it to a local shop to have a vaccum pulled and new R134a charged.

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

I HIGHLY recc, running dye in it to make 100% sure it is just your compressor. You don't wanna go throwing parts at it and then realize that you have a bad seal/oring or a leak in your condensor or evaporator.

etmateo

I have a 2000 Trans Am with 119K miles on it. I figured with the age of the car, I might as well save the $100 test to check it with dye and replace the compressor. It is going to need to be done eventually so might as well bite the bullet now. I will have to open up my Haynes Manual to see how easy it is to replace b/c I will gladly replace it myself. And then take it to a shop for them to charge it.

etmateo

Silly question but when you say drier, do you mean the dehydrator? Sorry but this is my first time working with the A/C. Thanks

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Yes - commonly called the Accumulator (where the oil in the system accumulates and is remixed with refridgerant when it flows thru). As to the work, let me know and I can put together a step by step procedure to help you out. Check your haynes manual, but I think you have an Orafice tube instead of a Expansion valve and these are much easier to replace and much cheaper. Follow the directions on the bottle for the 134a charge and the Dye (can't go wrong as it's real easy) and then check leaks everywhere in the dark and you should see them. Make sure to check your Condensor as well for leaks (the radiator looking thing installed infront of your radiator). You can find diagrams online of automotive AC systems and I promise it's not hard and very easy to work on.

caramaro

my 2000 ta's ac compressor went out and it was the typical seal in it.I betcha thats what it is. i replaced mine on a buddys rack and putting the bolts through it and lining it up was an ordeal,you need small hands,i purchased a reman with a 2 year warranty and it works great. you have to do it from underneath car....btw

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

The suction discharge lines on the back of the compressor are easy. With the compressor unbolted you can get both hands in their. Just redid mine last week. Tech choice parts has our compressor for 165 and it has been working great so far. Replace all the seals I think it costs like 15 bucks for all of em.

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

Ps the schrader valves are a common leak too. My brand new gm ones leaked. Old ones are worse. Spit on the high and low side valves and watch for bubbles.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Believe it or not, GM does not consider the Schrader Valve a sealing point. They consider the caps to be the seal. I know...I know. But it's true. Read the factory manual. I was shocked too when I read it.