Tulip

All, I have looked and done research on this but I wanted to make sure I tapped into the knowledge base here on the site.

I have a 6.0 (LQ4) out of Yukon, which is mated to a 4L60E. I am putting this combination in a rockcrawling buggy so this will never see any highway time or if it does it will be very very limited. It's all about slow crawling and some full on up hill throttle assaults if the situation presents itself.

As you know the truck intake sits high on the motor so I am swapping an LS1 intake. My question is, will the truck injectors off a 6.0 motor fit an LS1 intake. I tried putting the injectors and fuel rail on the LS1 intake last night but it seemed like it just wasn't fitting quite right. If it does work then I will have to build some tabs off the LS1 intake to help secure the truck fuel rail. I know the 5.3 injectors won't fit based off another thread, because they are too short. Is this the same case for the 6.0?

My thoughts are this, I am trying to keep the expenses down to a minimum but if I have to get a new fuel rail and injectors for this intake, then I am about a third to halfway to the cost of going with the complete, ready to bolt in LS3 intake. If I do end up going with the LS3 intake I will want to convert to a drive by cable TB. Which one do you recommend?


I appreciate any knowledge you can pass my way. I have learned quite a bit but I am still a newbie and I am learning as I go. Thanks in advance.

Tulip

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

5.3 and 6.0 injectors are shorter than the LS1s. You can put the truck injectors on an LS1 intake by removing the plastic tip (flex fuel injectors go on directly). The LS1 fuel rail wont work. You can use the truck rail or aftermarket billet with modified hold downs.
LS3 intake ports (rectangular) wont fit the LQ4 cathedral ports.

Tulip

Gary what other intakes would fit the LQ4 to gain before performance besides the LS1 intake?

Earl Filter

iTrader: (1)

I just went through this on my LQ4, due to height issues of the truck manifold. You can use an LS1/LS6 stocker, or get an aftermarket like a BBK or a FAST. There are others. I went with a BBK (about $480 shipped from Jegs). If you're looking to save the most money, get an LS6 intake, use LS1/LS6 injectors and stock LS1 fuel rail, and your throttle body. LS6 intakes can be had for around $300, and used rails and LS1 injectors are pretty cheap. That's probably the cheapest route.

Tulip

Good deal. I have the LS1 stock intake mounted on the LQ4 now. Per Gary I can just take the plastic cap off the LQ4 injectors and use that fuel rail as well.

In the future if I want to do something more, could go with the LS3 intake /L92 head swap on this LQ4?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

IMHO LS6 manifold increases hp at 5000+ rpm. I'm guessing a rock crawler wont be in that range too often.
LS1 (3 bolt TB) and LS2 (4 bolt TB) will work with the LQ heads.
If you can keep the truck intake, they're great for torque.
But if clearance is an issue, an LS1 intake probably wont decrease any noticable torque with a stock cam. And an LS6 probably wont have any noticable increase with a stock cam.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

The question is if Intake clearance is an issue..I would keep the truck Intake for down low torque.

Tulip

Keeping the LQ4 truck intake unfortunately is not an option due to clearance issues with the cowl and how low we are going to keep the it. In the sport of rockcrawling low and slow is name of the game about 80% of the time. The other 20% of time is when you are at large obstacles and you need that horsepower. This rig will never see 5000+ rpm and the only time it might see anything above 30 mph is when I am a chase vehicle for the King of the Hammers Race (google it and you will see what I am talking about). I already have a LS1 TB on the way and should be here on Monday.

So then Gary in your opinion leave the stock cam alone in the LQ4 for now?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If you want low/midrange torque, the LQ4 cam should be pretty good.
Btw, if you want a lower profile rail, check out a returnless stainles flex fuel rail. You can cut the crossover tube, flare it, and use AN connectors. A budget solution to aftermarket billet rails.
BTW, if you're going with a cable TB vs a DBW that came with the motor, make sure your ecu will work with cable.
http://www.lt1swap.com/cable_conversion.htm

Tulip

I am going to be sending the ECM and the harness out to be reworked and that will take care of the drive by cable issue in the ECM.