5.3l into 79 Chevy K10
03-27-2011, 01:05 PM
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5.3l into 79 Chevy K10 Just picked up a 2000 5.3l with 53k on it to go into my little brothers 79 Chevy k10. He spun a rod bearing in the old and tired 350 and it wasnt worth rebuilding when we looked into the price of the machine work(grind crank, bore cylinders, cam bearings, valve job, etc) so i persuaded him to go this route. I worked at the local GM dealership here for a couple of years so ive been around the LS style engines and have always wanted to take a 05/06 GTO or Vette 6.0l and 6 speed trans and put it into a old muscle car, Ive got a 71 Nova with a built 327 in it right now but when it scatters im gonna make my dream a reality.
Anyways back to his truck, Picked up a 2000 5.3l(lm7 i was told?) with 53k on it for $450. It is missing a couple of parts that the guy had to take off when he put his 6.0l in his truck like the coil packs, alternator and alternator mounting brackets for the front of the engine, All of the accessory bracket bolts but we do have the accessory bracket for the power steering pump, Flywheel, starter, and the little coolant crossover tube that goes from head to head. Hoping to be able to find some of these parts from other members on here. The engine will be bolted up to the th350, np203, dana44 front, and 12bolt rear axle that are currently in the truck, The truck has a 4" lift on it currently so im hoping that the factory truck pan will clear everything alright but havent done any mockup or measurements yet.
I know that they are out there but i havent been able to find any others swap threads into a truck like this but my plan is to get a wiring harness out of a truck with the PCM and just transplant it all into the little brothers 79, I have read that i will need a spacer/bolt kit for the flywheel to bolt it up to one of the older transmissions, I know that the PCM will need to be reflashed to a manaul transmission truck and Like most other swaps of this nature im going to have the Vats removed, Rear o2 sensors removed, EGR removed, and other unnecessary items. I have a 2006 silverado with a Duramax/Allison in it that ive done some mods to and had plans on getting EFI live for it but not until my trans was built but i may buy it early so i can tune his PCM for him or just send it out and have it done.
I was told by a friend that there is two different harnesses/pcms, He said there was different colors like blue/red and green/red or something, I probably dont have the colors right but im sure you guys know what im talking about. He said that i need to get a certain one with the correct PCM because the other harness is alot harder to get into to tune or something.
I will have to talk to him more about this but can anyone confirm this?
Is there a certain year harness/PCM that would be ideal for me and this swap or should i just try to get the same year as the engine?
The guy we bought the engine from said that 2000 had a problem with knock in the PCM and to get a 2002 or newer PCM, I want to say he called it "false knock" or something like that. I dont remember any problems like that when i was working at the dealership but i do remember fixing the water/moisture problem multiple times with the knock sensors and that they need to be removed and sealed up very well.
Can anybody confirm what he was talking about?
Thanks alot
Anyways back to his truck, Picked up a 2000 5.3l(lm7 i was told?) with 53k on it for $450. It is missing a couple of parts that the guy had to take off when he put his 6.0l in his truck like the coil packs, alternator and alternator mounting brackets for the front of the engine, All of the accessory bracket bolts but we do have the accessory bracket for the power steering pump, Flywheel, starter, and the little coolant crossover tube that goes from head to head. Hoping to be able to find some of these parts from other members on here. The engine will be bolted up to the th350, np203, dana44 front, and 12bolt rear axle that are currently in the truck, The truck has a 4" lift on it currently so im hoping that the factory truck pan will clear everything alright but havent done any mockup or measurements yet.
I know that they are out there but i havent been able to find any others swap threads into a truck like this but my plan is to get a wiring harness out of a truck with the PCM and just transplant it all into the little brothers 79, I have read that i will need a spacer/bolt kit for the flywheel to bolt it up to one of the older transmissions, I know that the PCM will need to be reflashed to a manaul transmission truck and Like most other swaps of this nature im going to have the Vats removed, Rear o2 sensors removed, EGR removed, and other unnecessary items. I have a 2006 silverado with a Duramax/Allison in it that ive done some mods to and had plans on getting EFI live for it but not until my trans was built but i may buy it early so i can tune his PCM for him or just send it out and have it done.
I was told by a friend that there is two different harnesses/pcms, He said there was different colors like blue/red and green/red or something, I probably dont have the colors right but im sure you guys know what im talking about. He said that i need to get a certain one with the correct PCM because the other harness is alot harder to get into to tune or something.
I will have to talk to him more about this but can anyone confirm this?
Is there a certain year harness/PCM that would be ideal for me and this swap or should i just try to get the same year as the engine?
The guy we bought the engine from said that 2000 had a problem with knock in the PCM and to get a 2002 or newer PCM, I want to say he called it "false knock" or something like that. I dont remember any problems like that when i was working at the dealership but i do remember fixing the water/moisture problem multiple times with the knock sensors and that they need to be removed and sealed up very well.
Can anybody confirm what he was talking about?
Thanks alot
03-30-2011, 08:58 PM
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havent done the trans combo so idk parts, but youre right about the adapter plate.
i thought the year was 01, but youre right theres a crossover year that youll want to buy after.
id recommend bolding your questions, so the 'skimmers' can still give some input.
pics are also always fun
i thought the year was 01, but youre right theres a crossover year that youll want to buy after.
id recommend bolding your questions, so the 'skimmers' can still give some input.
pics are also always fun
04-01-2011, 03:37 PM
#3
Was thinking about buying that exact engine for a jeep swap post some pictures as you go.
And yea u will need the spacer for the flexplate or get the tci conversion flexplate if keeping the stock flexplate u will need to redrill a hole
And yea u will need the spacer for the flexplate or get the tci conversion flexplate if keeping the stock flexplate u will need to redrill a hole
04-06-2011, 04:29 AM
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Just did the swap on my 85 k10 with a th40 and np 208 with 4" lift. The truck pan will clear no problem. You may have to extend the motor mount pads back about an inch so that the motor will mate up with the trans. I used trans dapt mounts and they left me about 1.75" away from the bell housing so I just made the stock mounting pads bigger and slid the clamshell mounts back and drilled new holes. I needed the truck up and running fairly quick and was able to do the whole swap in my driveway in about 2 months and into it for about 4500 bucks including the cost of buying the truck..
Anthony
Anthony
04-06-2011, 06:06 AM
#5
If you are going to stick with the throttle by cable, you will want to use a red/blue PCM and program it for the 2000 5.3. Green/Blue PCMs are primarily used in drive by wire applications with the exception of certain vans and 2004 GTOs. Hope that helps.
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04-06-2011, 10:27 AM
#7
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Thanks alot for the information guys.
As far as engine mounts you said you bought mounts then ended up not using them and modifying the stockers?
Havent started the actaul swap yet, Still collecting parts. I want to have all of the parts needed that i can come up with before we start.
As far as engine mounts you said you bought mounts then ended up not using them and modifying the stockers?
Havent started the actaul swap yet, Still collecting parts. I want to have all of the parts needed that i can come up with before we start.
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05-22-2011, 12:51 AM
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updates?? have you started/finished??
iv kinda started my swap this weekend, 75 k10 w/99 ls1. i posted a thread with a few ?'s the other day to see if anyone was interested, but i guess theres not alot of interest in 4x4s
...owell.
iv kinda started my swap this weekend, 75 k10 w/99 ls1. i posted a thread with a few ?'s the other day to see if anyone was interested, but i guess theres not alot of interest in 4x4s
...owell. 
05-23-2011, 04:35 PM
#11
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Yeah not much over here for the 4x4's.
Sorry for the late replies, we have gathered up majority of the parts needed. Got the wiring harness with the red/blue matching pcm, got the flexplate adapter and the longer bolts, got the fuse block out of the same truck we robbed the pcm/harness out of but don't know if we will use it or not, we made a set of motor mount adapter plates but idk for sure if they'll work.
Trying to figure out what all wires we can delete from the harness right now.
Probably gonna get the motor in the truck this coming weekend or week after.
Sorry for the late replies, we have gathered up majority of the parts needed. Got the wiring harness with the red/blue matching pcm, got the flexplate adapter and the longer bolts, got the fuse block out of the same truck we robbed the pcm/harness out of but don't know if we will use it or not, we made a set of motor mount adapter plates but idk for sure if they'll work.
Trying to figure out what all wires we can delete from the harness right now.
Probably gonna get the motor in the truck this coming weekend or week after.
05-24-2011, 01:16 AM
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cool, if you think about it, take pics and post em up. i can use all the help i can get. especially when it comes to the wiring. some stuff came up today so i couldnt finish pullin the motor out of my camaro, but it WILL be out tomorrow
also, what EXACTLY did you get to bolt up to the th350. from what ive read i need a fw spacer + bolts, but how does the starter reach the new spaced out fw? also read somethin about a torque converter centering hub or something like that.? and are you using the stock converter?
also, what EXACTLY did you get to bolt up to the th350. from what ive read i need a fw spacer + bolts, but how does the starter reach the new spaced out fw? also read somethin about a torque converter centering hub or something like that.? and are you using the stock converter?
Last edited by BOBthe4dH8r; 05-24-2011 at 01:25 AM.
05-24-2011, 10:57 AM
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Yes you need a spacer and longer bolts. I think the spacer goes on top of the flywheel so your not really moving the flywheel out away from the motor your just giving the centering knub deal on the TQ something to hit on since the crank on the LS motors sits pretty much flush with the back of the block.
Probably gonna end up getting a small stall converter for it.
Sorry for the lack of updates guys, Made alot of good progress on it and should have it running probably by next weekend.
Wiring Harness
We modified the wiring harness(red/blue connectors), Using the information Here made it pretty simple to figure out what wires could be deleted and what needed to stay. One thing i want to stress is lay the harness out flat across the garage floor or something when you go through it and depin and remove wires, Work the wire out of the harness not moving the harness around itself. We had a huge rats nest because we twisted and moved the harness around when we were pulling wires out, Imagine that 30ft extension cord in your garage that you always spend 10 minutes unwinding/unknotting/etc then mutiply that by say 40 or so. We ended up having to depin every wire from the pcm connectors, seperate them all out, then we layed them across the engine and routed them how we wanted and put the pins back in the right spot on the connector. Huge headache that could have been avoided.
Fuse Block
We went to the wrecking yard and got a stock truck fuseblock and followed These instructions. We ran a battery positive cable over and connected it to the spot with the metal strip with the bolt hole in it on the bottom right hand side of the fuseblock in this pic, Not the one with the stud though this one becomes battery voltage when you connecto the the spot we did.
Used the stock coil wire to be the switching means on a relay which fed power to c1-a9-pink wire when the ignition is in the run and start position. Ran a wire off of the stud on the bottom right of the fuseblock picture above to c1-b11-red wire for our always hot feed. Then connected a wire to c3-f1-Gray wire to run the fuel pump off of. Hooked up the battery to it tonight after completing wiring up the fuse block and getting it and the pcm mounted to make sure everything was working, Everything seems to be working just like it should be and we cranked the engine over for a little bit with the spark plugs out and some wd40 sprayed into the cylinder since the engine has been sitting so long. Oh yeah the two or three(cant remember exact number) of red wires going into the plastic connector deal that passes through the firewall under the brake booster got hooked up to the battery voltage stud on the fuse block. These wires used to be mounted to the little juction deal on the firewall above the drivers side valve cover, Run over to the starter battery voltage stud, etc.
Motor Mounts and Placement
Ordered a set of setback conversion plates off of ebay, If i remember correctly they were 1.5" setback. With these plates between the block and the original clamshell mounts the engine wouldnt sit between the frame mounts on the crossmember at all. We tried drilling out the clamshell holes where the bolt that goes through the clamshell and rubber mount goes to 3/4" but that still didnt let the engine sit in there correctly. The sollution to the problem ended up being to drill new holes in the crossmember where the rubber mounts bolt onto 1" if i remember correctly higher than the stockers, If you look at the engine mount bolt holes they are slotted in the crossmember for adjustment, We drilled our new holes 1" above these at the furthest back setting(towards firewall). Doing these two things now let the motor sit between the frame rails exactly the way it should BUT this still left like a 1" gap between the back of the block and the bellhousing. We knew that this was going to happen going into it and just moved the transmission and t-case forward that inch to take up the difference. Doing this means that the front driveline will need to be shortened that said inch and the rear will also probably need to be lengthened but we havent confirmed that, Hoping that since we are swapping in a FF 14bolt rear axle the increase in pinion length will be enough for us to use the stock rear driveshaft.
The crossmember coming off of the motor mount crossmember that runs under the crank pulley had to be cutoff and removed, I cant remember if the front of the oil pan was hitting it or if it was the crank pulley but because of it hitting there was no way to get the engine to sit at the correct angle. We will be fabbing up a replacement of modifying the stocker and welding it back in before the truck gets driven.
With the engine in this location we still have plenty enough room to run the 5.3l clutch fan setup, The fan does sit a little higher than centered in the radiator so i dont think a stock fan shroud is going to be able to be used without some modifications. We are going to run it without a fan shroud to start with but will be fabricating something up or moving the radiator up a couple of inches or something in the core support but we dont think he will have any problems since the truck does not have a/c...Time will tell. Hood clears the intake manifold and air intake piping fine but it looks like he isnt going to be able to run the "Vortec" engine cover until he puts a cowl induction or similar hood on.
Exhaust
We are using the stock truck manifolds, They bolt on and clear right now but the clearances on the top of the framerail C lip are tight, We will be notching out like an inch or so of the C lip in the area for clearance for when the engine mounts flex and move under load.
Fuel System
We will be using the C3-F1-Gray wire to feed power to the fuel pump, It will control it just like the factory does on the LS powered trucks, Key on engine off runs its for a couple of seconds to prime then always run when the engine is running all controlled by the PCM. He bought the correct Walbro fuel pump to mount on the framerail to supply the needed pressure and volume to the engine. We will be mounting the fuel pump somewhere real close to the tank selector valve deal between the valve and the engine. Need to figure out exactly what type of threads are on the fuel pump and see if we can source or make some sort of adapter fittings to splice it into the hardline. Plan is to run the factory hardlines up to the bellhousing then adapt them to soft lines from there up to the fuel rails where he bought the adapter fittings to convert the fuel rails from the pushlock fittings to AN fittings.
Going to be working on this during the week next week and hope to have it completed by the weekend.
Oh by the way i got my 6 liter for my nova!
Probably gonna end up getting a small stall converter for it.
Sorry for the lack of updates guys, Made alot of good progress on it and should have it running probably by next weekend.
Wiring Harness
We modified the wiring harness(red/blue connectors), Using the information Here made it pretty simple to figure out what wires could be deleted and what needed to stay. One thing i want to stress is lay the harness out flat across the garage floor or something when you go through it and depin and remove wires, Work the wire out of the harness not moving the harness around itself. We had a huge rats nest because we twisted and moved the harness around when we were pulling wires out, Imagine that 30ft extension cord in your garage that you always spend 10 minutes unwinding/unknotting/etc then mutiply that by say 40 or so. We ended up having to depin every wire from the pcm connectors, seperate them all out, then we layed them across the engine and routed them how we wanted and put the pins back in the right spot on the connector. Huge headache that could have been avoided.
Fuse Block
We went to the wrecking yard and got a stock truck fuseblock and followed These instructions. We ran a battery positive cable over and connected it to the spot with the metal strip with the bolt hole in it on the bottom right hand side of the fuseblock in this pic, Not the one with the stud though this one becomes battery voltage when you connecto the the spot we did.
Used the stock coil wire to be the switching means on a relay which fed power to c1-a9-pink wire when the ignition is in the run and start position. Ran a wire off of the stud on the bottom right of the fuseblock picture above to c1-b11-red wire for our always hot feed. Then connected a wire to c3-f1-Gray wire to run the fuel pump off of. Hooked up the battery to it tonight after completing wiring up the fuse block and getting it and the pcm mounted to make sure everything was working, Everything seems to be working just like it should be and we cranked the engine over for a little bit with the spark plugs out and some wd40 sprayed into the cylinder since the engine has been sitting so long. Oh yeah the two or three(cant remember exact number) of red wires going into the plastic connector deal that passes through the firewall under the brake booster got hooked up to the battery voltage stud on the fuse block. These wires used to be mounted to the little juction deal on the firewall above the drivers side valve cover, Run over to the starter battery voltage stud, etc.
Motor Mounts and Placement
Ordered a set of setback conversion plates off of ebay, If i remember correctly they were 1.5" setback. With these plates between the block and the original clamshell mounts the engine wouldnt sit between the frame mounts on the crossmember at all. We tried drilling out the clamshell holes where the bolt that goes through the clamshell and rubber mount goes to 3/4" but that still didnt let the engine sit in there correctly. The sollution to the problem ended up being to drill new holes in the crossmember where the rubber mounts bolt onto 1" if i remember correctly higher than the stockers, If you look at the engine mount bolt holes they are slotted in the crossmember for adjustment, We drilled our new holes 1" above these at the furthest back setting(towards firewall). Doing these two things now let the motor sit between the frame rails exactly the way it should BUT this still left like a 1" gap between the back of the block and the bellhousing. We knew that this was going to happen going into it and just moved the transmission and t-case forward that inch to take up the difference. Doing this means that the front driveline will need to be shortened that said inch and the rear will also probably need to be lengthened but we havent confirmed that, Hoping that since we are swapping in a FF 14bolt rear axle the increase in pinion length will be enough for us to use the stock rear driveshaft.
The crossmember coming off of the motor mount crossmember that runs under the crank pulley had to be cutoff and removed, I cant remember if the front of the oil pan was hitting it or if it was the crank pulley but because of it hitting there was no way to get the engine to sit at the correct angle. We will be fabbing up a replacement of modifying the stocker and welding it back in before the truck gets driven.
With the engine in this location we still have plenty enough room to run the 5.3l clutch fan setup, The fan does sit a little higher than centered in the radiator so i dont think a stock fan shroud is going to be able to be used without some modifications. We are going to run it without a fan shroud to start with but will be fabricating something up or moving the radiator up a couple of inches or something in the core support but we dont think he will have any problems since the truck does not have a/c...Time will tell. Hood clears the intake manifold and air intake piping fine but it looks like he isnt going to be able to run the "Vortec" engine cover until he puts a cowl induction or similar hood on.
Exhaust
We are using the stock truck manifolds, They bolt on and clear right now but the clearances on the top of the framerail C lip are tight, We will be notching out like an inch or so of the C lip in the area for clearance for when the engine mounts flex and move under load.
Fuel System
We will be using the C3-F1-Gray wire to feed power to the fuel pump, It will control it just like the factory does on the LS powered trucks, Key on engine off runs its for a couple of seconds to prime then always run when the engine is running all controlled by the PCM. He bought the correct Walbro fuel pump to mount on the framerail to supply the needed pressure and volume to the engine. We will be mounting the fuel pump somewhere real close to the tank selector valve deal between the valve and the engine. Need to figure out exactly what type of threads are on the fuel pump and see if we can source or make some sort of adapter fittings to splice it into the hardline. Plan is to run the factory hardlines up to the bellhousing then adapt them to soft lines from there up to the fuel rails where he bought the adapter fittings to convert the fuel rails from the pushlock fittings to AN fittings.
Going to be working on this during the week next week and hope to have it completed by the weekend.
Oh by the way i got my 6 liter for my nova!
08-18-2011, 01:07 AM
#15
Cool I am gathering parts for the jeep conversion, so I like both car and 4x4. You should post some pictures and be sure to start a post for the nova when you start. Where did you get the 6.0?
08-18-2011, 09:35 AM
#16
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Funny story about the 6.0l...I sold my 327 and th350 out of the nova to a guy about 2.5hrs away, I found the 6.0l on craigslist about 30 minutes away from him or 3hrs away from me. 6 liter was $1000 and i sold my stuff for $950. The guy who bought my stuff went and picked up my 6.0l, paid for it, then i payed him the $50 and gave him my original stuff.
08-18-2011, 12:25 PM
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Funny story about the 6.0l...I sold my 327 and th350 out of the nova to a guy about 2.5hrs away, I found the 6.0l on craigslist about 30 minutes away from him or 3hrs away from me. 6 liter was $1000 and i sold my stuff for $950. The guy who bought my stuff went and picked up my 6.0l, paid for it, then i payed him the $50 and gave him my original stuff.
08-22-2011, 12:31 AM
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Got the Fuel system all tied together today, and fired it up for the first time. ill try to get pictures and videos up
The adapter motor mounts
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first initail start up, fuel pump primed, but once it built pressure and put pump under a load it blew the 10amp fuse and we didnt notice so it started to run out of fuel. need to run thicker wire too.
[IMG]<embed src="http://img15.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Mcyy" width="640" height="380" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/> Uploaded with <a target='_blank' href='http://imageshack.us'>ImageShack.us</a>[/IMG]
Second fire up after fixing the fuel pump issue, open exhaust manifolds
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again
The adapter motor mounts
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]first initail start up, fuel pump primed, but once it built pressure and put pump under a load it blew the 10amp fuse and we didnt notice so it started to run out of fuel. need to run thicker wire too.
[IMG]<embed src="http://img15.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Mcyy" width="640" height="380" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/> Uploaded with <a target='_blank' href='http://imageshack.us'>ImageShack.us</a>[/IMG]
Second fire up after fixing the fuel pump issue, open exhaust manifolds
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again
08-22-2011, 11:31 AM
#19
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i posted up all of the pictures, and video. but it said a admin has to view it first? still havent seen them..
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just a FYI, the 5.3l is bolted to a th350/203 t-case.
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first fire up, fuel pump fuse blew so it started to miss and run out of fuel at the end
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/690/gd9.mp4/
second fire up, ran great
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/97/ck6.mp4/
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]just a FYI, the 5.3l is bolted to a th350/203 t-case.
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]first fire up, fuel pump fuse blew so it started to miss and run out of fuel at the end
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/690/gd9.mp4/
second fire up, ran great
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/97/ck6.mp4/
08-23-2011, 12:06 AM
#20
Launching!
Thread Starter
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Don't be alarmed guys, wiring isn't done yet still quite a bit of cleanup and final routing to be done on the wiring and fuseblock area. Frame hasn't been notched for manifold clearance and obviously exhaust hasn't been ran yet. And no the fuel pump isn't going to stay like that.
Just got everything done and fastened up good enough for transport, its over at my house right now and I'm leaving for hawaii to get married shortly and will be gone for like a week so we wanted to get it moved back over to dillons so he could finish it up.
Don't be alarmed guys, wiring isn't done yet still quite a bit of cleanup and final routing to be done on the wiring and fuseblock area. Frame hasn't been notched for manifold clearance and obviously exhaust hasn't been ran yet. And no the fuel pump isn't going to stay like that.
Just got everything done and fastened up good enough for transport, its over at my house right now and I'm leaving for hawaii to get married shortly and will be gone for like a week so we wanted to get it moved back over to dillons so he could finish it up.
I will try and get some better pics for the class tomorrow before she gets loaded on the trailer.
Just got everything done and fastened up good enough for transport, its over at my house right now and I'm leaving for hawaii to get married shortly and will be gone for like a week so we wanted to get it moved back over to dillons so he could finish it up.
Don't be alarmed guys, wiring isn't done yet still quite a bit of cleanup and final routing to be done on the wiring and fuseblock area. Frame hasn't been notched for manifold clearance and obviously exhaust hasn't been ran yet. And no the fuel pump isn't going to stay like that.
Just got everything done and fastened up good enough for transport, its over at my house right now and I'm leaving for hawaii to get married shortly and will be gone for like a week so we wanted to get it moved back over to dillons so he could finish it up.
I will try and get some better pics for the class tomorrow before she gets loaded on the trailer.