Casenick

Hello all,


I recently purchased a 2002 Z28 NBM and figured you guys could help me answer some questions.


1. Since purchase I have put premium in her but I am not certain the previous owner did. Will she automatically adjust for the new fuel if needed or do I need to do a reset of some kind?

2. I have been reading about people being able to spin the tires at will. I have an A4 with 2.73 gears(I think); will she chirp tires if I try? I have redlined her once from a 10mph roll. Although I had two small passengers and only went to 55 -- only one gear. I don't remember if it chirped but I doubt it because I think that is something I would have remembered...



Thanks in adavnce!

80superbu

iTrader: (8)

You really won't notice much of any difference running the premium if you haven't been. If a lower octane gas was in the tank before, was it making any sort of rattling noise under heavy acceleration? Google "spark rattle" or "detotnation" for a better description. The higher octane premium will keep it from doing that.
Nothing for you to reset.

2.73 gears are great for the highway and fuel mileage. That's about it.

Now get back to work Nick!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

1. Yes, it will automatically adjust. If the previous owner used low octane all the time, and the knock sensors picked up enough detonation, this would have enabled the low octane spark table. But once you refill the tank (I think it just requires 5 gallons or more of new fuel) that parameter will reset to the high octane spark table and stay there, unless it senses excessive knock again.

2. Wheel spin is very dependant on tires (and suspension). Even a 2.73 LS1 car can roast the tires from a stop if they are bald, old, skinny, low quality, etc. My stock 2.73 Camaro can easily spin even good street tires from a stop or a very slow roll. Now competition tires (like drag radials) would be a different story.

Casenick

I don't know if it was knocking. I read about knock retarding and crap like that. How it changes the timing, in turn decreasing horsepower and MPG.

The ****(read salesman) told me it ran on regular and put 1/4 tank in it when I purchased so I assume he put regular in it.

Had her for about two weeks and I have put premium in her and just wanted to make sure she was taking advantage of it.


As for the gears. I was just wondering if she COULD get squirrely... not that I would. She will be a daily driver(although I can get a little aggressive when these damn people don't get out of the left lane for anything) and I was curious about her potential...


Ya know... I used to work with a guy named Bryan... who used to be a TSgt... retired about the same time as you... is now a civilian... in Colorado Springs...

ugly guy...

80superbu

iTrader: (8)

He's HUUUUUGE too

Casenick

That's what she said...

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

You can always take a battery cable off. When you put it back on the CPU will do a relearn and reset everything. When I first got my Z28 it would hit the tires from 1st to 2nd so hard that the rear end of the car would try to come around on you. A set of Nitto tires straightened that right out. But still if you nailed it hard and made it downshift it would fry the Nittos. Some cars are just meaner than other ones. No 2 alike.

Casenick

Thanks for the input!

I have Potenza's on there now. I haven't tried to break her loose yet but a friend of mine has an 05 'stang GT and when we race I want to be prepared for a squirrely rear end.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

anything over 25-30 on a stock car you shouldnt break lose unless youre downshifting which i dont recommend.

2.73s do blow. id change them.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

2.73 cars will automatically downshift to 1st at up to 37mph.

I wouldn't spend the money needed for that until after doing a stall. Even a 2.73 to 3.73 swap won't give you as much gain as a ~3500 stall would.

I've seen 2.73 cars cut incredible 60 foots (and run excellet ETs) with a good stall.

Casenick

What exactly is a stall? I haven't looked into it much, my performance list consists of bolt-ons for now...

It is a daily driver so although I want power I would like to get as many mpg's as I can to please the Other Half.

As for downshifting, if I'm cruising around at 20 and some DB runs up on me your damn skippy I am going to downshift! LOL

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

i could never break my tires loose when i was stock at 37 mph with 3.23s.

i agree with a stall but id still dump those 2.73s.

J_DORSETT

iTrader: (3)

They are talking about what RPM your torque converter stalls at.

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

When I had my 275/40/17 Michelin All Season, I oculd ROAST them from a stop, even with my 2.73's, It was so bad I oculdn't leave at more than half throttle at the track, if I matted it I'd just get a John Force style burnout.

Now that I have good tires (Nitto NT555's), it just HOOKS at the track, and I really have to try to get them to spin.

As far as premium, the car should really get it all the time. I ran a tank of 89 through mine once, and while it ran just fine, the mpg went right to ****. After that tank I went back to 93. The tank of 89 cost me MORE, since it didn't last nearly as long as the 93 does.

Oh, and congrats on getting the Z, and in the best color too!!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

It would be much harder with 3.23s, because you'd be stuck in 2nd (unless you manually downshifted to 1st). The 2.73 cars will still go back to 1st automatically at that speed, whether or not they lose traction will depend on other factors (mods, tires, temp, etc.).

It's a matter of cost vs gains, IMO. The 4L60E has a very aggressive 1st gear ratio, and the LS1 makes good torque, so jumping to a 3.23 or even 3.42 is hardly worth the cost unless you do the labor yourself, get a great deal on parts, and/or you've already done the other more benefical mods (like a stall). 3.73 would be more worthwhile, but now your cruising rpms will be significantly higher.

On the other hand, for similar cost (as compared to the price of parts, labor and tuning for a gear swap) you could do a higher stall and gain much more performance.

If fastest possibile ETs are the only goal, and the budget allows, then by all means just do both.

Casenick

Ok, another question.

Would a higher stall require more or less pressure on the brakes at a light?

I have to keep alot more pressure on the brake than I am used to when stopped. Could I possibly have a high stall installed already? Or do I just need to get a little more used to such a high performance machine?

cam kidd

nice car! and great color indeed!

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, these cars make alot of torque, so you have to keep firm pressure o nthe brakes when stopped and in gear. Also, your idle could be a bit high. Mine idles at around 600rpm when in gear.

As far as the stall, nope, it's the other way around. A higher stall converter will let your engine rev up a bit before actually moving the car, so depending on the converter, you could actually take your foot off the brake with the car idling in gear and it won't go anywhere until you give it some gas.