99 z

Ok, car is a 99 z28. Headers and full exhaust only mods. Not daily drivin. Has never been to a track nor do I have plans to race it.

I have the sticking pedal problem. I used a syringe to suck out the black fluid and replaced with new dot 3 fluid, pumping pedal in between till my fluid was clear. Still had the problem so I used mityvac on it. No bubbles appeared. When I lightly put my foot on the pedal it goes slowly to the floor and sticks. If I pump the pedal a few times it works ok. Leave it sit a few minutes or hold pedal down for more than 30 seconds, it sticks to floor or hangs up a bit. No leaks anywhere.

So I'm at the point of getting a new master. I know the tick flows more fluid and is adjustable but cost over 100 dollars over stock unit. My stocker has worked flawlessly for me for the past 9 years I've owned the car.
So taking all this into consideration, would a tick master be overkill for me or is there something I'm missing about it. I have no problem spending the extra money for it, just not sure it would benifit me that much more considering that I dont race the car.

So to those running tick or stocker give me your thoughts on your setup, how the pedal feels etc. Why you chose it and such. I'm probably gonna order tonight.
Thanks.

mtuggle86

iTrader: (7)

I have a tick master and its a great product. If you really don't race the car any a gm one would work fine for you.
If the difference in price is only 100 bucks Id prob buy the tick though it has a lifetime warranty so if this ever happens again just send it back for a rebuild.

99 z

I didn't know about Tick's warranty. That is something to consider. I guess I should ask aswell about just an over the counter replacement like a duralast m/c at autozone or napa. Has anyone on here gone that route with a clutch master cylinder?
Are they junk or would they be alright for my car with what I use it for?

Scoobysnacks

iTrader: (1)

To me this sounds like you could have one of a few issues could be the slave cylinder, clutch or throwout bearing.
Before you throw $300 at a Tick I would pull the trans and check those first...



How many miles on your car/clutch?

Scoobysnacks

iTrader: (1)

I assume you bled the clutch too after putting new fluid in? Seems you might have air in the line also...

99 z

I have just under 50k on the car. I bought it used in 02 with 33k on it. So not sure if its the original clutch/ hydros or what. I didnt try the traditional bleed method. I had this sticky pedal happen about 6 months prior to this last issue and using the syringe method did the trick before. So I figured that being it didn't work this time, I had other issues. When I used the mightyvac I didn't see any bubbles come up either. I could try to bleed it the traditional way and see what happens. Communication between me and the wife while bleeding the clutch this way might be tricky though. lol

Mart00SS

iTrader: (19)

You could have a bad slave cylinder but If you are going to replace your master cylinder I think any money spent on a stock unit is a waste. I have DDed a Tick for about a year and love it.

99 z

I was reading on another site that if you disconnect the line to the slave that you should not be able to press the clutch pedal in if master is good. Any truth to this? I figure if its the slave I might as well just replace it all at once. Still on the fence between gm or tick master.

Blwn_by_Twins

iTrader: (6)

True.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

The Tick Master Cyl is one of the best mods I have done so far. My only regret is that I wished I would have done it sooner.

mylittlez06

iTrader: (12)

tick tick tick tick.....I have one and I love it

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I bought a new clutch master cylinder from Oreilly's and it came in a Raybestos box, it only comes with the master cylinder and a new rubber line to the reservoir, I have also bought the clutch master cylinder at the local G.M. dealer and if you look closely the G.M. master cylinder is also a Raybestos unit with the same part number stamped on the master cylinder body, the only difference is the G.M. comes with a new reservoir and cap and the braided line that connects from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder and is already bled and is filled with the correct fluid, but it is about $100-125 more than the auto parts store version so for the extra $100-125 you get a new hydraulic braided line to the slave cylinder and the rubber hose to the reservoir, other than that they are identical in brand name and part number and Oreillys also has the lifetime warranty, for your application and driving needs I would go with the O.E.M. as for the Tick it seems about 65% say they are great and about 35% saying they dont like them you can also look at the comments about them on LS2GTO.COM In my opinion it is hard to beat the research and development of G.M. but at times their research and development leaves alot to be desired.

99 z

Lizeec, would you happen to have that part number handy? I stumbled upon the gm master on a site and it seemed to match up with a number on a parts disk i have. also if i get one that is not prebled, do I just need to let it gravity bleed before connecting to slave?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I just went through my receipts and I realized it was from Autozone and not Oreillys and it is under the duralast brand but if you look at the part you will see the raybestos name and part number on the master cylinder it was part #10646 and it was $64.99 and the G.M. I have which I still have brand new in the box is part #12570277 I think I paid around $175.00 for the G.M. brand. I also looked at the Oreilly site and they show a Wagner brand for $57.99 I trust both Wagner and Raybestos names as a quality brand,hope that helps,

99 z

Thanks, I will deffinately look into this. I just wanna be sure I'm gettin good part. Lifetime warrantys are nice but if the part is crap and ya gotta replace it every few months then the hell with it ya know.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Yes I definitely know what you mean, I am the type of person that doesnt mind paying extra for a quality part that is going to fit right and last as long as it should, unfortunately it seems like I still pay quality prices but lately it seems like I get crap for quality when I buy aftermarket, as it doesnt fit right or you have to hammer, grind or weld on it to make it fit and then it doesnt work as it is advertised, So I usually pay extra and try to get the dealer stuff and I have had pretty good luck with that stuff, and I definitely agree changing the clutch master cylinder isnt a job you want to do every couple of months, Good Luck with your choice.

99 z

Last night I removed the line going into the slave. I let it gravity bleed till all clear fluid coming out and plugged it back into the slave. pedal feels more firm than before but will stick to the floor if I hold the pedal down for more than 5 seconds. I didnt bleed it yet, gonna try that tonight. Also when I had the line removed from the slave , the clutch pedal was rock hard. So Im thinkin the master is ok. Either way its getting repaced. Might as well do it all if tranny has to be dropped.

hope not.

Scoobysnacks

iTrader: (1)

To me it sounds like it needs to be properly bled. When you say the clutch sticks to the floor is that on the initial push? If you pull the pedal up and start pumping does it gain pressure? That is what I had to do after each time the bleeder was cracked...

99 z

My dad was over last night so I had him operate the pedal while I cracked the bleeder. I would open it as he started pushing the pedal down. Then I would close it before he got it all the way to the floor. Had dirty fluid come out but never any air. I did this for about 20-30 min. fluid was still a little dark, but better than before by far. The pedal felt firmer and the only time it sticks or hangs up is if I hold the pedal down for more than 5-10 seconds. Then I gotta pull it back up. As far as just pushing it in and shifting it works fine. No leaks any where. I'm gonna try swappin the master this weekend. I plan on goin to the parts store and gettin one from there. Then gonna compare to the one I have and see if they are the same before I install it. If not the same I'll take it back and get a gm part.

At this point I feel the master is the problem. The fluid only has 1 path to take. It gets pushed down to the slave and returned on the same line. So I think the fluid is getting past a seal in the master. I would think that if the slave had a problem with a seal it would be leaking fluid or my pedal would get really hard to push. I dont know. Guess I'll find out.

EastcoastPerformance

iTrader: (9)

Hey 99 z, if you want to, please give me a call and I will be glad to help you in anyway I can...We have alot of experience here first hand with these cars...thanks Mike Yeager...