billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

I finally got the itch to work on the car again, and instead of trying to add washers, spacer, drilling new holes in the frame, ect, I did what I should have done in the first place and make my own frame mounts.

I did this one up just as a template, as I had planned on doing it in 1/4" steel plate, but wonder if 1/8" would be a safe choice? My mig pak 10 is at it's limit with this plate steel, and would need to tack up the 1/4" plate and tack it up, then bring it to school to stick weld it.


As you can see in this next picture, part of it hangs off the back of the subframe unsupported, and am now thinking about adding another 1/8" plate behind it that has holes, weld one plate to the other by filling in the holes and around the outside border.


I will be adding some hollow round stock between the uprights to have the bolt pass through, but that is only on an otherwise finished piece.

What do you think? Should I add another 1/8" plate on the back, add the hollow round stock and call it good? Or would it be unwise and just use the 1/4" plate?

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

I would use what you have and add another piece of the 10 gauge to the back side of the mount to make the lower piece three sided. That along with the round stock and they will be plenty strong. You can also use a lot less weld on the lower part that way.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

^^^+1

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I'm with them. Adding the back for support and the hollow round stock should be enough.

If it's regular mild steel, I wonder if you could do some sort of hardening or heat treating?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Sleeve across for the crossbolt then box it the rest of the way in with more 1/8in. Use 023 wire and move a little slower if you're at the limit of a 110v MIG. Should work great.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

I boxed it in on the front and back, but have yet to do the hollow round stock, but may not do it to this mount. It will do the job, but looks so-so, I just got the hang of getting my welds to look good again at the end. Needed to get away from stick welding and back into wire feed.

Will see what they have laying around at school including the hollow round stock and in what size in 1/4" plate and decide where to go from there


Thanks to all who replied

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Id make a new one from 1/4" plate

First, 1/8" is pretty weak and it's holding 600ish lbs of engine plus engine torque

Next, your welds have poor penetration. Multiple cap passes wont strengthen it which is the bulk of the weld mass shown

Turn up the heat until you're just about to blow through and try it again. Next time use a single gusset in the middle that goes all the way up to the sleeve. The current design still allows the hole tips to flex. 1/4" for the base plate and hole sides is ideal. You can use 1/8" for the internal gusset and tube sleeve

rexrunner

iTrader: (2)

^^^ agreed, looks like there was alot of popping going on, the metal looks hot around the welds though pretty equal. what size stick are you using?

anyways yes make new ones. multiple things can be so so on a ls1 swap and be ok, but i wouldnt let those be the mounts to hold it in. I used 3/8" plate with 5/16 tabs. didnt feel the need for anymore gussting but yes the tube would be a great idea.

patience man, welding can be tons of fun when you get it down. use a mig if your more comfortable

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

The little Mig Pak 10 I have, the stick welder is at school, and have only one more class, so one last chance to use it. I will cut up and tack weld the mounts in 1/4" plate, and bring them to class and use 6010 for a root pass, then do a cover pass in 7018.

thanks guys

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would have boxed them in a bit more or do what the OEM are built like.. use a tube for the through bolt. Either one will stiffen them up enough.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

A single root pass is sufficient if you get enough penetration. This isnt a 1/2" high pressure boiler pipe

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Take a cue from the factory and note that your factory stands are 3/16" steel. Most good motor mounts are made from 3/16" steel too.

I would use 3/16" and reinforce it as you have in your prototype. In fact, that is exactly what I did. Here is a photo of mine before it was cleaned and painted:

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

See, I have not really used my mig in six or so years, all I have done is..... well, pipe welding, literally and it is another whole ball game. I still might do a cover pass of 7018 as it tends to come out looking much smoother since it is a drag rod.

Going to cut it all up, tack weld it and bring it to school and see what happens.

thanks again guys

ps
speedtiger, that is where I got the idea was from you. My original design was way overly complicated, and after I had seen yours, well, the KISS idea kicked in

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't use 1/4 plate. The real strength come from boxing the design. That way you can make it strong and light.

I used 3/16 on my motor and diff mounts.

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Unfortunately they did not have anything in between 1/8" and 1/4" except diamond plate, and I am cheap and they let me have it for free.

I am going to add in the hollow round stock after I get done welding the rest. Here is the one side tacked up waiting to be welded.

serpentnoir

iTrader: (2)

That tall gusset is a BAD idea. In order for the bolt to generate clamp load it has to compress the sleeve and stretch the bolt. The gusset will prevent that from happening and you will end up with a loose bolt over time. I used to design perches for leaf springs at the Big 3. Fully gusseting like you did was a big no, no. Look under a truck and watch how they design leaf spring brackets...

1/8" plate is too thin. 3/16 is ok. 1/4" not necessary but if you must...

billsnogo

iTrader: (7)

Would using a locknut prevent that? The tall gusset is just sitting there, it has not been tack welded in. Should I shorten the guesset and only make it 1" tall? Need some feedback on what to do from others who know what they are doing

thanks again

edit: also, wouldn't the clamping force come from the engine mount? I will post a pic in a second. If you notice the ears from the motor mount spread outward, and would it not provide a clamping force when the bolt tightens down? If I am wrong, please let me know what would be a good choice before I mess things up...... more

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I see no problem with your gusset and I have no idea what he is talking about. Just look at how the factory frame stands are designed. Make sure your put a piece of tube between the two holes. This will stop the stand from crushing when you tighten the bolt.

rexrunner

iTrader: (2)

he was seeing the mount sdrawkcab ( backwards) lol like a leaf spring perch the leaf bushing goes between the mounts you made, not on the outside.

i know what he is talking about and he is right!! but not here, no worries.

you should grind a 45 bevel on the bottom of each peice being welded. will assist penetration and you can fill it in with weld. you should weld perpindicular peices without a bevel. the mounts look good imo otherwise. use a nice wire brush too to clean the metal up and get that coating off of it. you wont get that spatter or popping as you might how it is now.

cant wait to see it man