Unnable to hold a stall
#1
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Unnable to hold a stall
I've been unable to stall higher than 2000 rpm with my TCI 3500.
Could this be due to my rear stock brakes guetting weak??
Would upgrading to powerslot or Baer cure this??
if not what could cause this?
Mark
Could this be due to my rear stock brakes guetting weak??
Would upgrading to powerslot or Baer cure this??
if not what could cause this?
Mark
#2
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Thats about where they start to pull when stalling them up. I will only bit at 3500 if you hit from an idle. You should be able to hold it to 2200 you brakes may something to do with it.
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Once Im staged I hold the brake just so i dont roll. Pick the rpms up to around 2000 then you can start to feel the rear end and drive shaft load up. Once it loaded dont rev any higher you can take the chance of breaking the tires loose. When the last yellow comes nail it. It works for me. Some people keep it at an idle and just nail it, like that it hits at the rpm its supposed to (3500) but I think its hard to get a good light like that and tires ALWAYS break loose on me.
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The reason we don't blow up rear ends like the M6 folks is because we can PRELOAD the rear end/tranny by brake stalling the car as much as possible. I could imagine just nailing it from idle would be similar to an M6 car dropping the clutch at a similar rpm and then some on the rear end.
You can always add more power or more tire if either give you problem But breaking crap with wheelhop is what you're trying to avoid no matter what your style is.
if you're wheel hopping, and you can feel it, your drivetrain is taking a massive beating.
If i go to the track with my new mods and start wheelhopping i'll probably stop for the night and figure out what the issue is before i break a trans or rear end from having fun
You can always add more power or more tire if either give you problem But breaking crap with wheelhop is what you're trying to avoid no matter what your style is.
if you're wheel hopping, and you can feel it, your drivetrain is taking a massive beating.
If i go to the track with my new mods and start wheelhopping i'll probably stop for the night and figure out what the issue is before i break a trans or rear end from having fun
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When doing a stall test, hold brakes and quickly open throttle, the engine should rev to near the stall rating (slightly higher or lower due to the convertor stall being rated at X horsepower) If it does not thats a possible of sign of the stator clutch not holding.
#11
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Originally Posted by samz28
The reason we don't blow up rear ends like the M6 folks is because we can PRELOAD the rear end/tranny by brake stalling the car as much as possible. I could imagine just nailing it from idle would be similar to an M6 car dropping the clutch at a similar rpm and then some on the rear end.
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Well from a "race idle" of 750 rpm. It Launched and like u said, stalled to around 3300-3400 and off we went.
I took the front sway bar off for better weight transfer. 1.69 60' and a time off 11.92/116mph.
Man I need to loose weight! LOL
Still stock tranny and 10 bolt with 3:73's and T/A cover.
It didn't feel like murder on the drivetrain.
I took the front sway bar off for better weight transfer. 1.69 60' and a time off 11.92/116mph.
Man I need to loose weight! LOL
Still stock tranny and 10 bolt with 3:73's and T/A cover.
It didn't feel like murder on the drivetrain.