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battery cable wire size

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Old 04-17-2011, 05:56 PM
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Angry battery cable wire size

I have a 1966 gto with a LS-1, all normal power stuff fans fuel pump ect I plan on putting my battery in trunk what size wire do I need to run
Old 04-17-2011, 06:23 PM
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You prolly won't need as big a wire gauge as you might think (or others might lead you to believe). Both my 'rods have relocated batteries. I have welding cable lead in my Maverick, does it work? Yup. It's heavy as hell, but I had it lying there... My GN powered S-10 has #4 wire (yup, you read that right!) and it's been working just fine since 2001. BTW, the S-10 has A/C, stereo, several add-on electronic boxes, dual SPAL 11" fans, etc. and the Mav has, basically, nothing but A/C and a single turbo Buick 16" fan.
Old 04-18-2011, 09:26 AM
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#0 or #00 gauge would be my choice. A lot of people get a lot of charging/electrical gremlins all because of bad grounds and say moving the battery to the the trunk is the worst thing to do. Make damn sure your grounds are adequate and you're golden.
Old 04-18-2011, 10:10 AM
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I'm running 1/0 from the trunk.
Old 04-18-2011, 10:18 AM
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I'll be running a factory oldsmobile aurora battery cable. If it can run all those accessories it can handle what little I will be running.
Old 04-18-2011, 10:23 AM
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You can avoid a lot of grounding problems if you run the same size black negative cable up to the motor as the red positive cable. Don't rely on sheet metal to carry electrical load where ever you can help it. But most people don't want to hear that cause it doubles the cost of the remote mount. The upside is you can get by with a smaller gauge that way.

By the way, BMW's are a good source of remote battery cables. They used them on a number of different models. If you can find one is a JY you will save some bucks. Copper prices are outrageous anymore. Trunk mounting batteries is getting more popular these days. Tried to jump I think a Saturn SUV and it had the battery in the back.
Old 04-18-2011, 04:27 PM
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I am also using high quality welding cable, 4 gauge, and it works fine. Also running a ground lead.

Mark
Old 04-18-2011, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
You can avoid a lot of grounding problems if you run the same size black negative cable up to the motor as the red positive cable. Don't rely on sheet metal to carry electrical load where ever you can help it.
Or, you can buy a car with an actual frame.
Old 04-18-2011, 08:25 PM
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Your cable selection is gonna be relative to the amp draw you put on it most likely during cranking. I found this chart maybe it will help.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/wire_size_chart.htm
Old 04-18-2011, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
Or, you can buy a car with an actual frame.
Ahh. Beats rusty sheet metal joints I guess. But I would still run a ground wire.

My 40 year old Datsun has been free of electrical gremlins in the 25 years I have owned it. The japanese were pretty good about running a ground wire around with power wires. Have to think that makes a difference.



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