jg rider

I was doing some Google browsing and I came across a site that is selling MAF Air straighteners with bigger 1/8" holes for corvettes at $50.00. So that got me looking for anyone selling air straighteners for f body Camaros / Firebirds. The only thing I found was an old thread from 2009 in H.P.Tuners, There's is a guy that sells these screens for fan air flow in computers, and honey comb cells for photography. He's sold some of these screens to people that want to experiment. I don't think I can post his web site here without approval, even though automotive parts aren't his source of income and there doesn't seem to be any direct business conflict.

I met with this guy (Jason) today and he made me two screens. One for my 2000 Z, and one for my son's 2001 WS6. His screens have 1/8" holes and are 5/8" thick compared to the 1/16" hole and 1/4" thickness of the OEM screen

These two pics he posted for HP Tuners peeked my interest to try this out




I have no afiliation to Jason. I met him for the first time today

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

kind of confussed to what this is about, please explain, it looks very interesting.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I think I understand what this is about. The honeycomb in the MAF straightens the air flow. A larger honeycomb tube size will have less resistance while longer tubes will straighten the airflow more.

Is this the guy you're talking about?
http://www.saxonpc.com/airflow-products.html

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

I'm subscribing to this

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Interesting video from that ^ website:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNExOgtLt2w

firemech21

iTrader: (9)

Alright this is interesting. I was doing some reading on MAF housing last weekend and from what i gathered, we didnt need the airflow "straightener". From what i remember reading you only need a straightener if the airflow turns somewhere in the intake tubing. But our f-body air systems are pretty straight through. Does anyone have dyno chart of with/without comparisons?

01stngkiller

also subscribing...

jg rider

Yes it is. The 5/8" depth is just about perfect from the inside lip to the mouth of the MAF. I forgot about the video. I've been running without a screen for some time with out any problem, but I noticed it took a while for the tach to show my idle settled down.
I would post the site that's selling the corvette screen, but I don't know if I'm allowed because they're not sponsors.
I just came back from taking the WS6 out for a run. I think I feel more snap .but I not gonna say anything until my son come to take it for a run. It's his car.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I suppose this is all a lesson in what the honeycomb in a stock MAF does.

What we need to know is how much is gained/lost from removing it (like many here, including me, has done) vs. using this larger/longer honeycomb is and also comparing it to the stock setup.

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

Interesting

jg rider

Does this help ?

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26546

http://www.southerncarparts.com/Inst/MAFscreen.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xb6AN...layer_embedded

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The honeycomb in the stock MAF consumes a considerable amount of room. Find a picture of one pulled out and squished down. It consumes at least 1/4 of the total airflow through the MAF. Most remove it to gain that flow ability back. But, its at the expense of the MAF being as accurate as it could be. Some of the newer MAFs don't even have screens I don't believe, but they may be designed to run without one. Ours was obviously designed to have one. I have been running mine de-screened for years with no issues, that does not mean its reading 100% correct though.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

Cool. At $10, this may be worth giving it shot.

I'd like to see a comparison between a Factory Screened MAF, a De-screened MAF and a MAF with one of these screens.

Suzaku

iTrader: (3)

Do they make any in custom sizes? 103.5 mm to be exact.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Pretty straight except for the 90-ish degree turn the air flow has to take right after the air filter. The lid helps direct it as well as it can, but it is a pretty short distance to turn all the air going into the engine.

A general rule of thumb is that a flow is fully developed (as smooth as it is getting) at around 20 diameters - so if you have a 100mm MAF, 20 diameters is 2000mm (78.75 inches), so in an ideal world, you would sample the air flow about 6.5 feet after the air turns, which ain't happening. That's why people use flow straighteners like the ones shown above, although I've never personally messed with one on my 100mm MAF.

What I can tell you for certain is that airflow readings are very erratic on the 100mm MAF in an F-body - enough that my AFR was swinging all over the place just cruising down the road running MAF only. To be fair, I haven't messed with it since (I run SD 99% of the time), but perhaps I'll get some time in the future.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Very interesting thread. I bought my WS6 and noticed my MAF was de-screened, and it's always interesed me weather de-screening was worth doing in the first place.

jg rider

I have to make one of these for my grand daughter to take to school as a show and tell. That's provided is isn't considered a weapon

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMXAU...layer_embedded

jg rider

I got to test a 2001 WS6 and a 2000 Z with their new air straighteners.

First up was the WS6 (my son's)
Son is a Pontiac buff, 66, 67 GTO, 69 Firebird. He bought this 6 spd.car with only 18,000 miles on it, completely stock. It was in my opinion a slug campared to my Z. Once he installed an SLP lid / filter, SLP CAI and ported and polished the MAF the car started to really perform. He hasn't gotten around to an exhaust system yet. The down side has been that it now pings and it throws codes, but still makes power. With the new air straightener on I noticed it pulls stronger at low end and that throttle response is better up top. Son has to make the determination of improvement. Unfortunately it didn't help with the pinging. Next step is to replace the fuel filter

Next up was my Z28. It has 28000 miles on it
I've been running this MAF without any screen since I ported and polished it. I've never experience any problems with this set up, in fact the car dynoed 350 rwhp just with bolt ons. The only quirk there's been was that the idle wouldn't settle down fast enough. When stopping the tach would first go to 1000 rpm (normal), then fluctuate 800 - 900 for a few seconds, and then go down slowly to the correct 700 - 750 rpm..
Unfortunately before installing the air straightener, I changed plugs and put in a new set of wire last week and I then did a limited test run. I did feel a S.O.T.P. gain, but that's a topic for another thread.
After installing the air straightener I went for a 50 mile run. Since this is my car, I think I know that there was a sense of more low end torque. Getting up to 120 from a third gear 40 mph roll seemed to be faster. I live in the country and to get to my house I need to climb up a steep 7 mile road that I can almost do in sixth gear as long as I get a running start at it. Normally half way up I'll down shift to fifth when I see the tach and speedo start to drop. I did two runs up the mountain and I could do the trips without down shifting.
I don't know what caused SOTP performance gain. Was it changing the 28000 miles factory plugs for NGKs or changing the 28000 factory wires for another brand, or the screen straightening out the air flow.
One thing that I know the air straightener did do was give me more low end torque and correct my idling. Now when I come to a stop the tach goes from 1000 rpm right down to 700 - 750 rpm
That's my story and I'm sticking to it

saxxon68

Hi folks, this is Jason. jg rider stopped by yesterday and I was able to get a pattern of the LS1 MAF size. I have a V-6 Firebird but he brought over a WS6 all black beauty. Thanks for posting all the details and feedback. It was nice talking to jg rider, he is WAY enthusiastic and his family has a carshow in the making.
Would I need to start a new thread to ask about my popping steering. It has been progressivly worse over the last 2 years. I think it is the steering shafts u-joints. Hard/ or difficult to find online, but pretty loud now.
Glad to part of your forum.

O.N.

but this is comparing forced air as in the pictures the air is forced in and the air chooses to go the path of least resistence, in our engines they are sucking air not forcing it unless you are turbo/supercharged and even then the air is sucking/forcing, its a good idea for computers etc but to bring it over to cars that suck air, the air already wants to go to its destination as it is being sucked towards that destination.