View Full Version : Welder Questions


SS125
04-21-2011, 09:39 AM
I'm thinking of buying a welder. I haven't decided between the Lincoln or the Eastwood or the Miller. But I'm trying to decided if the 110v will suffice for what I want to do or the 220v. I'm going to have to weld on an anti-roll bar, some L brackets for a motor plate, wheelie bars, maybe roll cage. I've read that the 110's are pretty good up to 3/16 some up to 1/4. That's probably as thick as I'm ever going to need welded. Do I really need to spend the extra money for the 220 or will the 110v be adequate.

garygnu
04-21-2011, 05:52 PM
look at a horbart 140 also..you will never regret getting a 220v welder.better duty cycle.

SS125
04-21-2011, 06:04 PM
Can somebody explain duty cycle.

sjsingle1
04-21-2011, 07:21 PM
i am a certified welder......and i dont even know that answer.......but then again i have never had to buy a welding machine either

01ssreda4
04-21-2011, 11:13 PM
Duty cycle is how long the machine can run before it overheats, shuts off, and has to cool before you can resume work.

SS125
04-21-2011, 11:15 PM
What does everybody think. If i can buy what I only need for $200 less than a 220 v machine, I don't want to spend that kind of money if I really can't use it or don't need it.

bestlude
04-21-2011, 11:20 PM
What does everybody think. If i can buy what I only need for $200 less than a 220 v machine, I don't want to spend that kind of money if I really can't use it or don't need it.

it wouldnt be bad to invest in one though, sometimes they do come handy, especially when you dont realize it.. im going to try to invest in a good mig machine.. i was pissed when i had to take my car to a shop just to weld up a pipe. i would rather do it myself and its fun. And you could also do minor household repairs and such aswell.. my 2cents :nod:

berlin 83
04-21-2011, 11:29 PM
I Just got out of a fabrication school, and have spent the last 6 months behind a helmet... well you need to be a little more specific are you buying a tig or mig? as far as name brand is concerned, being that your not going to be welding for a living so i would say look at who has the best warranty. because hands down miller is the smoothest most user friendly pick up an play welder i've use and there quality is 2nd to none, same as there customer support. that being said, you know what your going to use it for, do you really need a 220 welder? in tig welders i would say go for something like a dynasty 200 is prob the last welder you would ever buy, it has an interchangeable plug that can use 110 or 220 with out any adjustments, it's very upgradeable and can be fine tuned to weld every then from aluminum cans to 3/8" steel plate. if your going the mig route the only thing i can say is don't waste your time with any of the shielded core wire B.S. go the gas route other wise you'll end up doing it later anyway, you can also get certain mig machines that you can get a spool gun attachment later and weld aluminum. . . . hope this helps

SS125
04-21-2011, 11:30 PM
I just read this about the Lincoln 180 - "up to 3/16" with MIG welding and 1/2" with gas-less flux-cored welding". I'm no expert, but I've read that the gas-less flux core welding puts out a lot of splatter, so I would think you would want to weld with the gas shield. That line above reads to me like when using gas, you can only weld up to 3/16" which is what I keep reading is what some of the 110v do. This is where I'm having a problem.

SS125
04-21-2011, 11:30 PM
I Just got out of a fabrication school, and have spent the last 6 months behind a helmet... well you need to be a little more specific are you buying a tig or mig? as far as name brand is concerned, being that your not going to be welding for a living so i would say look at who has the best warranty. because hands down miller is the smoothest most user friendly pick up an play welder i've use and there quality is 2nd to none, same as there customer support. that being said, you know what your going to use it for, do you really need a 220 welder? in tig welders i would say go for something like a dynasty 200 is prob the last welder you would ever buy, it has an interchangeable plug that can use 110 or 220 with out any adjustments, it's very upgradeable and can be fine tuned to weld every then from aluminum cans to 3/8" steel plate. if your going the mig route the only thing i can say is don't waste your time with any of the shielded core wire B.S. go the gas route other wise you'll end up doing it later anyway, you can also get certain mig machines that you can get a spool gun attachment later and weld aluminum. . . . hope this helps

I'm talking about MIG welding.

sjsingle1
04-22-2011, 12:03 AM
since i dont control the brand of welder i use on the job......the most important thing is good maintenance.....can you get service on any welder you buy?

usafws6
04-22-2011, 04:15 AM
lincoln 140 hd with argon/c02 mix welds 5/16 plate and sheet metal beautifully

garygnu
04-22-2011, 10:01 PM
never use flux core wire unless you are in the middle of hell.a welder is a long term investment.buy the best you will never regret it.

shorty(98TA)
04-22-2011, 10:14 PM
Ive been welding professionaly for the last 18yrs. You defentally should put out the extra money for a 220 for what your looking to fab I would buy a millermatic 220 and run .035 copper flaux hardwire with and CO2/argon 70/30 mix gas its gonna give you the best out of position welds when your upside down in the car and you will never break the duty cycle. Its going to be the easiest to use and maintain Millers are top notch the only welders Ive ever bought and Ive used a ton of different brands and modles

go with the millermatic 220 you wont regert it and all your buddies will beg to use it

garygnu
04-22-2011, 10:19 PM
don't tell your buddies you have 1.

shorty(98TA)
04-22-2011, 10:24 PM
don't tell your buddies you have 1.

yeah no joke on that keep it top secret and make damn sure your shop is locked

merim123
04-22-2011, 11:34 PM
compromise - i'm looking at a millermatic 211. let's you go 110-220. it's about 1k. my next down is the hobart 187 for 700.

Carguy34
04-22-2011, 11:48 PM
Those Eastwood machines are no joke. I sold my Lincoln to get the 220 Eastwood machine because I needed the spool gun. It's a much nicer unit than I expected. Super easy to setup and uses standard Tweco parts.Miller and Lincoln both make good welders, but I would recommend the 220v Eastwood for anyone running it at home

garygnu
04-23-2011, 06:31 PM
I have seen horbart 187 on craigslist for $500.I was looking at the eastwood 175 welder with the spool gun for welding just alum.

SATAN
04-23-2011, 07:02 PM
Duty cycle is not how long you can weld before the machine trips it's protection light.
Duty cycle is how long you can weld before you have to let the machine cool down.

For example... 35%... You have a 10 minute window. If a machine has a duty cycle of 35% at a certain amperage, then you can weld for 3.5 minutes straight, at that amperage. Then you need the remaining 6.5 minutes that are left in that 10 minute window for the welder to cool down.

IF you exceed the duty cycle, then your heat protection will trip and you are forced to wait for the machine to cool down on its own.

What ever machine you intend to buy... Do not plan on running the machine at max duty cycle all the time. If you do this, then you are purchasing a machine that is too small for your needs.


Eastwood is a China welder. I JUST got done giving ANOTHER China welder brand a chance. It welded, it had some cool features. I was not happy with it. I sent it back within my 30 day trial period to get my money back. Compared to my Lincoln Precision Tig 185, the arc quality was just no where near as smooth. There were other issues with the welder too.The machine came with broken parts much like every other post I had read about with other people receiving their machines in the same condition.

In a nut shell, I found out first hand that there is a reason the China welders are cheaper than the red, white and blue welders.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j68/SATANZ31/Projects/IMG_5087.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j68/SATANZ31/Projects/IMG_5088.jpg

shorty(98TA)
04-23-2011, 09:41 PM
Just the fact that they are made in china is enough for me to stay away.

:usa:MADE IN THE USA is the only way to go:usa:

i would pay more simply because its made in the usa

remauto1187
04-23-2011, 11:12 PM
Check the pawnshops for deals!

01ssreda4
04-24-2011, 01:31 AM
Duty cycle is not how long you can weld before the machine trips it's protection light.

IF you exceed the duty cycle, then your heat protection will trip

You're not the brightest apple on the tree are you?

SATAN
04-24-2011, 01:34 AM
You're not the brightest apple on the tree are you?

Yeah, I guess that kind of came out wrong LOL.

Basically what I meant to say is... . If you are tripping the protector, then you have ALREADY exceeded the duty cycle of the welder BEFORE the protector tripped. The protector is just to keep you from going further and melting down your machine.

BADD SS
04-24-2011, 09:09 AM
i am a certified welder......and i dont even know that answer.......but then again i have never had to buy a welding machine either



^ This scares me....

And people wonder why my rates are $105/hr

SATAN
04-24-2011, 09:52 AM
^ This scares me....

And people wonder why my rates are $105/hr

$105/hr seems like a pretty reasonable rate to me. I don't know you or your work, but that is right down the middle of the road for performance work in the Denver area.

BADD SS
04-24-2011, 10:50 AM
$105/hr seems like a pretty reasonable rate to me. I don't know you or your work, but that is right down the middle of the road for performance work in the Denver area.

Well IMO it is middle of the road, but then you got the crackheads who drop the average. And everyone is penny wise dollar short nowadays... At least here.

Everything from 40+ foot car haulers to torque arms and roll cages, to ornamental Ironwork...

UMD_Jesse
04-25-2011, 07:58 PM
check craiglist. I would say 200 for a mig setup is unrealistic...maybe harbor freight? I got a hobart handler 140 for like 450 shipped free with a cart and from northern tool. However, once adding a helmet, gloves and gas tank youre looking at $600. But Im very happy with my setup. FYI you can go with a sheap helmet if you plan on only welding mild steel....but stainless seems to weld brighter and you might get a welding burn with cheap glass and stainless
I also, I concur that duty cycle is how long it will go before overheating. Also, make sure you know if youre buying a 115 volt vs 220 (most are 220) and make sure youre running it on a breaker with at least 20 amp capacity.

01ssreda4
04-26-2011, 12:04 AM
Yeah, I guess that kind of came out wrong LOL.

Basically what I meant to say is... . If you are tripping the protector, then you have ALREADY exceeded the duty cycle of the welder BEFORE the protector tripped. The protector is just to keep you from going further and melting down your machine.

I just try to keep answers simple when talking about some things....welding is one of them. My answer wasn't going for 100% correctness.