FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

So I got my introduction to mod hell this week.

Upgrades performed a week ago:

- Gutted exhaust
- Replaced differential fluid
- Hard-wired Beltronics STI Driver
- Installed driver's side CG Lock

Upgrades performed last weekend:

- Installed 1-7/8" OBX headers (painted & wrapped)
- Installed mock cats + modified stock exhaust to fit headers
- Replaced upstream O2 sensors with Bosch O2 sensors
- Replaced stock floormats with Lloyd's embroidered CTS-V mats
- Replaced engine coolant and oil
- Installed Lingenfelter CAI
- Tested three different brands of EL wire and 3157 LED bulbs (all rejected)
- Tested VHT brake caliper paint (rejected)
- Removed engine cover (aka, the Engine Blanket)

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Lesson(s) Learned #1 (headers):

- The driver's side header requires you to unhook the steering linkage and remove the oil filter (forcing an oil change). These things are NOT mentioned in the FAQ, and caused several hours' delay.

- Although the CTS FAQ does tell you that you have to remove your coolant temperature probe, it doesn't warn you that doing so will result in a major spillage of engine coolant. Another delay.

- Although both Kooks and OBX claim that their kits are compatible with the stock exhaust system, they're not. Turns out that you need a sawzall with a metal bit to knock off almost a foot of the exhaust, which you can do under the car provided that you have tall-enough jacks.

- Once you're "done," you'll still need a pair of Bosch upstream O2 sensor kits ($58 each), since the old sensors only have 12" cables. Don't bother buying extensions online--they're almost expensive as the Bosch kits, and they don't include these nice sensors. FWIW, the driver's side sensor needs every inch of that cable length, plus most of the cable from the old sensor.

- If you have a LS2, you only need to remove the two rear passenger-side spark plugs when you install 1-7/8" headers. Nice.

- Words cannot describe how much of a pain it is to re-insert the dipstick . After fighting with the thing for 3 hours, I found a random illustration in the CTS-V service manual that allowed me to spot the receptacle and shoot the following pictures / video. I may add this to the FAQ to save others hours of hardship.

Informal Dipstick Video (rough)

Midstream Dipstick Picture

Dipstick Receptacle Picture

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That's it for the moment. I'm ridiculously tired, and need to think about how I'm going to integrate this stage of my mods into that gigantic post that I've been promising that I'll write after I finish with these mods. Coming up next month:

- LS2 --> LS7 clutch conversion
- Lightweight flywheel installation
- Katech remote clutch bleeder installation
- Lingenfelter / Katech short-throw shifter installation
- Cadillac V2 **** installation
- Kiwi OBD2 Wifi transmitter installation
- 2011 wireless key fob trial
- Ground Control spring kit installation
- Dyno tune

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

1- Kooks come with o2 extensions, gaskets, and bolts so new 02s are not needed

2- never had to remove my oil filter

3- waste of time removing coolant temp sensor

4- while the headers are off, its a good time spend an extra 20 bucks and 10 minutes to swap out new plugs because youll never have a better opportunity

5- most anyone has a hacksaw lying around to cut the exhaust even though it comes with connectors.

STAGEUP

I guess the header install is different for everyone. To me, installing headers on a V is a walk in the park. Easiest set of headers I've done on a vehicle.

Congrats on completing it!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The ease of your installation probably depends on the following three variables that people rarely discuss (although they should):

1. LS2 or LS6 engine
2. 1-7/8" or 1-3/4" headers
3. Wrapped headers or not

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

True, but i dont think those really matter except maybe the wrap if it interferes with the steering shaft when its installed.

oh well it's done thats the best part isnt it haha

serik21

also depends on how bad there stock motor mounts are

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Based on my recent installation, I'd say that an unwrapped 1-3/4" header should clear the steering linkage during installation.

On the other hand, an unwrapped 1-7/8" header will require you to decouple the linkage, but probably will not require a dent in the tubing in order to reconnect it.

A wrapped 1-7/8" header kind of hits that magic mark where issues arise on both sides of the engine block. On the passenger side, for instance (which is normally trouble-free), I found that the header was striking the last 1/8" of the back two spark plugs, and no amount of playing with the insertion angle would persuade it to slip past that obstacle.

STAGEUP

I've done both 1 3/4, and 1 7/8. Both require steering shaft removal for ease of install. But I've never had to remove the oil filter or water temp sensor. I've never installed wrapped headers though. Wrapped headers are probably a lot thicker.

whisler151

With my 1 3/4" Kooks I had to remove steering linkage. I did not have to remove the oil filter or the coolant temp probe.

Looks like you are having fun with your V. Keep it up!

DMM

If you didn't do motor mounts you can consider this a dry run..should be easier the second time around. It wasn't that bad for my Kook's, and I never had a problem with the O2 sensors the way they were. I did have major issue's with the steering shaft though, esp after I wrapped them.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Couple of follow-up questions:

1. The car is running rough at low RPMs and pretty much any time that I need torque. I assume that this is because my timing is off due to the significant changes in intake restriction and exhaust backpressure. In other words, I need to get this car dyno tuned ASAP. Is this correct?

2. After deleting the cats and installing headers, the engine sounds like crap. The exhaust note is worse, in my opinion, but you can listen for yourself. I'm getting a lot of high-pitched squeaking (appears to be originating from the header outlet flanges) that reminds me of shot-to-hell Ford Explorers. Not sure if that's because cat delete (nothing happened when I gutted the mufflers two weeks ago), or because the timing is off, but it's driving me nuts. In any event, I'll re-evaluate once I get it tuned. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.


Original Exhaust Sound (Baseline)

New Exhaust Sound (OBX headers, cat delete, gutted mufflers, no tune)

3. CAI whistle. Normal or not, and either way, how can I reduce it?

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

1. Doubtful scenario, but a tune would help
2. If you have exhaust leaks at the header flanges, you need to tighten them up. Did you use new gaskets? It sounds bad because you still have the stock shitty mufflers. Either buy an exhaust system or pick up some replacement mufflers.
3. Normal. Why would you want to reduce it? The stock intake is designed to cancel out this noise. Get rid of your cone filter and buy a K&N drop in for you stock box....problem solved.


It seems to me like you like the idea of modding, but dont like the results of the mods themselves.....

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The roughness has to go. I'll talk to my tuning shop this weekend.

I'll have to jack up the car and scan the area around the flanges to see if there are any leaks. Yes, I used new gaskets. I doubt that new mufflers will help--the nastiness is coming from around the engine bay.

I want to reduce the CAI whistle (not a hiss, an actual whistle) because bystanders may find it obnoxious. It's hard to find a better CAI for this CTS-V: Lingenfelter airbox, Voltant intake tube, and a huge S&B air filter.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

I actually installed my wrapped OBX this weekend. I didn't have half the problems you did. I removed pass. Side plugs to mitigate risk of damaging them since they are only 7500 mi old. Coolant temp sensor, just be careful. Steering linkage, yes remove to save time and frustration. Oil filter never had to be removed. Didn't need O2 extensions. I covered harness with mil-spec heat resistant skin wrap. (don't ask). Took 3 hours from jacking car to start up.


Common sense is required when modifying your engine or car at any level. A temperature sensor would be worthless if it wasn't exposed to the subject (coolant). And since your system is pressurized, it will ALWAYS result in a mess. Before your next modification, take the time to familiarize yourself with the project as a whole before running into unnecessary obstacles.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That criticism is unnecessary in this case--I memorized all instructions available from all relevant vendors, multiple threads, and the FAQ.

Don't know how you avoided adding O2 extensions--mine were about 8" short.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

1. The car is running rough at low RPMs and pretty much any time that I need torque. I assume that this is because my timing is off due to the significant changes in intake restriction and exhaust backpressure. In other words, I need to get this car dyno tuned ASAP. Is this correct?
Might of damaged a plug, or not installed all plug wires securely enough. Mine ran just fine besides running a tad rich when i did headers.
2. After deleting the cats and installing headers, the engine sounds like crap. The exhaust note is worse, in my opinion, but you can listen for yourself. I'm getting a lot of high-pitched squeaking (appears to be originating from the header outlet flanges) that reminds me of shot-to-hell Ford Explorers. Not sure if that's because cat delete (nothing happened when I gutted the mufflers two weeks ago), or because the timing is off, but it's driving me nuts. In any event, I'll re-evaluate once I get it tuned. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.

You got rid of cast iron manifolds and repalced them with a lot more stainless steel that transmits tons of noise throughout the motor. Wrapping would help that but youll never get rid of the extra noise really. And ditch the mufflers altogether and I bet the car sounds 50 times better. Gutted mufflers always sound like ***.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I only removed two plugs during the installation, although I did drop one by accident. It looked fine. OBD2 checks out though--wouldn't that alert me to a problem?

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

I hate to sound like a jerk, but no, obviously not. Because you are saying you have a problem, yet no OBD2 message.

Your sound clip sounds like a car with headers. Raspy and poppy. If it's not running right, though, you need to look into it. Look at the things you touched. Plugs, wires, make sure the headers are not leaking, and the coolant temp sensor and O2s are connected properly.

I don't think the timing gets "off" because of a header install. The A/F ratio will change slightly, but the car should be able to account for that most of the time. On some cars at idle, not enough exhaust gas makes it past the O2 sensor when placed in the larger collector of headers, and they can idle rougher. It doesn't sound like others with headers on the V have that problem, though.

whisler151

I agree with Strokinit...a tune will help a bit, but the overall bad sound I would guess is coming form a leak or just the stock mufflers. If you dont want to buy a Magnaflow cat back system I would just pick up 2 Magnaflow mufflers and have them welded on. That will add some nice tone to the system.

And yes, the sound from the CAI in normal, in fact many people (including myself) enjoy the sound.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

If you took it as criticism, please consider it to be constructive. I wasn't referring to you as having a lack of common sense; rather it does take some planning and general understanding of the mods purpose and general engine assembly. You have stated before that you have an electrical engineering degree; however, you did not state that you are highly mechanically inclined. The two don't marry each other automatically. I myself have an electronics back ground but have been around engines since I was 8. In the garage with my dad rebuilding friend’s motors and doing repairs for extra money. Even with my experience, I spend a few hours planning the mod and familiarizing myself with the final assembly.