Fast 102mm with ls1 coolant tubes lots of pics
#1
Fast 102mm with ls1 coolant tubes lots of pics
I was wanting to run the ls1 style coolant tubes to help cool the rear cylinders and keep the heat out...After a little grinding it wasn't to hard to clear the lines. I also smashed the tubes slightly but they still flow, better then blocking them off IMO....
#6
Other notes to add;
I used ls2 rails with ls1 injectors, the fast manifold came with all hardware, instructions, and the ls1/ls2 conversion o-rings
The MAP sensor in the rear fits very tight and close to my fire wall, I need to either dent the firewall in a bit, or install it to the front of the manifold.
I re-used my PTM 92mm TB for now, but it does not fit well, the PTM TB does not cover the entire "mouth" 0-ring, I used a little bit of sealant just to get me by until i get a 102mm TB.
I had to bend the trans dipstick over a bit to clear the fuel rail
Over all the manifold is very impressive and looks alot better, I just hope I can get 5-9rwhp from it...
I used ls2 rails with ls1 injectors, the fast manifold came with all hardware, instructions, and the ls1/ls2 conversion o-rings
The MAP sensor in the rear fits very tight and close to my fire wall, I need to either dent the firewall in a bit, or install it to the front of the manifold.
I re-used my PTM 92mm TB for now, but it does not fit well, the PTM TB does not cover the entire "mouth" 0-ring, I used a little bit of sealant just to get me by until i get a 102mm TB.
I had to bend the trans dipstick over a bit to clear the fuel rail
Over all the manifold is very impressive and looks alot better, I just hope I can get 5-9rwhp from it...
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#8
Yeah I know, but really it wasn't that much material, I am not advising anyone to do it, I just wanted my rear steam vents to vent coolant instead of air pockets building in the rear where #7 is. The old fast manifolds did not have these ribs, and its not like i took them all the way down either. I'm sure it will be fine.
#11
good work and pics.I just tapped my ls1 coolant lines down to fit under my fast 92.there is more room under a fast 92 intake.the fast 102 has alot more material in it,I believe it weighs 3lb more.other people with fast 102 intakes could use 2 vette coolant lines,one in back and connect it to the front coolant line .
#12
good work and pics.I just tapped my ls1 coolant lines down to fit under my fast 92.there is more room under a fast 92 intake.the fast 102 has alot more material in it,I believe it weighs 3lb more.other people with fast 102 intakes could use 2 vette coolant lines,one in back and connect it to the front coolant line .
#14
All Emmisions are deleted but it still passes emissions... Thanks to some good tune work and not a to big of cam.
#15
I have a/c delete, but I do have heat in the car...look closer at the two black lines running along the pass. side inner fender metal.. those go to a heater core I made from a old trans cooler/sheet metal shroud and a R6 cooling fan , works well to heat the car in 30 degree weather.. and it only weighs 5 lbs... the lightest I could get the heater setup.
#16
hey man i have the fast 102 and FTP 104 lid, what MAF and coupler are you using? could never find the right combo to make it fit right, also what are the list of mods you have done to your car to clean up the engine bay, like EWP, ABS delete, etc, would greatly appreciate it!
#17
hey man i have the fast 102 and FTP 104 lid, what MAF and coupler are you using? could never find the right combo to make it fit right, also what are the list of mods you have done to your car to clean up the engine bay, like EWP, ABS delete, etc, would greatly appreciate it!
Yes I did an electric water pump, manual steering rack, BMR alternator adj bracket. ABS delete, all emissions delete, traction control/cruise delete..a/c delete, smaller/ lightweight battery with a smaller motorcycle coolant overflow res.
#20
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Bringing this back, hopefully for some insight on the FAST 102 rear cooling issue... I just modified my LS6 intake on my B4C to accommodate the LS1 steam tube setup. I realize my 2000 B4C doesn't have a "functional" temperature gauge (just a dummy gauge), but I swear it seemed like the temperature took longer to get to operating temp than with plugs in the back!
Well, now I'm thinking about my FAST 102 equipped 383. I currently have plugs on the back and the LS6 tube modified on the front. I have a spare LS1 crossover tube and I like the idea the OP had, mainly because I like the idea of hidden coolant lines for a cleaner look.
So my question, how should I go about smashing in the tubes? Any science to it, or a hammer on top of my LS6 valley cover? What about putting an LS6 tube in the back with the outlet closed to the banks can communicate but not evacuate to the radiator? That sounds bad, but would that allow enough coolant level to cool cylinder 7? A lot of questions here, any input on cooling the back cylinders is appreciated
Well, now I'm thinking about my FAST 102 equipped 383. I currently have plugs on the back and the LS6 tube modified on the front. I have a spare LS1 crossover tube and I like the idea the OP had, mainly because I like the idea of hidden coolant lines for a cleaner look.
So my question, how should I go about smashing in the tubes? Any science to it, or a hammer on top of my LS6 valley cover? What about putting an LS6 tube in the back with the outlet closed to the banks can communicate but not evacuate to the radiator? That sounds bad, but would that allow enough coolant level to cool cylinder 7? A lot of questions here, any input on cooling the back cylinders is appreciated