Pythias

iTrader: (3)

Just picked up a 2000 Camaro SS with 50k miles on it, the last owner had it for 4 years and only drove it 4k miles in that time. Now I'm not making it a DD but it will surely have more miles put on it than that.

Already has full synthetic oil, I'm thinking flush the coolant and change the thermostat to the 180* one, change the rear-end oil with Mobil 1 synthetic, prolly clean the MAF sensor and put a K & N filter in it, as well as change the fuel filter. Anything else that you guys would recommend? I want to keep it in as best of shape as I can.

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

List looks good so far.. I would just get a paper air filter, K&N has no real gains and paper is shown to flow and protect just as good as K&N. I think a lot of people on this forum will agree.

I would change tranny fluid/filter (if A4).

Check bushings (SB, LCA, etc) for wear or lack of lube. Even with low miles, they can dry up and deteriorate.

Check drive belts for wear and tear..

My car only has 25K miles on it and I`ve had to do a lot of regular maintenance. These cars are getting older and age is catching up, regardless of the mileage.

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

Forgot to add, PS fluid and bleed brake fluid

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

PCV Filter
Plugs & Wires (GM reccomends the ones on the car lasts 100k, but I changed mine at 60k for piece of mind).

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I would recommend you NOT put a K&N filter in it. They F up the MAF sensor. Unless you are racing, a regular paper filter will save you a lot of time, money, and grief.

Good news - your car is low mileage. Bad news - your car is old and low mileage. As posted above, its time for a full 100K mile service. (change all fluids, plugs, wires, belts, etc.) Every fluid is either dirty or oxidized and all of the rubber seals on parts are towards the end of their lives. (even if they don't have the mileage on them.)

It took me 11 years to get to 100K and I definitely could have changed all that stuff way before. The car is much happier (and dry) now.

Pythias

iTrader: (3)

Im definitely going to have the power steering fluid and bleed the brake fluid as well then. Forgot to add its a 6speed, I'm going to do the full tune-up in a month or 2 when I do the headers and exhaust since it'll already be out. I'm changing the fuel filter and cleaning the mass air flow today. I'll defn check the bushings and drive belts as well. Thanks for all the help guys!

O2Form

Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil..............GARBAGE! I wooooodn't use that in ANYTHING! Use a standard gear oil like Valvoline or even Valvolines blend if you have to have synthetic.

why people think synthetics are better is crazy...I KNOW WHY! because they think if it costs alot more its better. I've worked on ALOT of rears in my time, stay away from synthetics in the rear.

Pythias

iTrader: (3)

Noted

Pythias

iTrader: (3)

SO valvoline gear oil, does power steering or brake fluid matter? Anyone recommended anything? I know dex-cool for the coolant obviously.

O2Form

I use mostly valvoline products and Pennzoil engine oil. Always had good luck with both. IMO I'd buy the standard yellow bottle engine oil, cheap and is good as anything else you can buy. I'd stay from dexcool, at least buy the peak or prestone universal coolant. Its a dexclone that not as fussy as the real dexcool. Dexcool is some dam fussy crap.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

The spec for the rear end oil is 75W90 GL5 if I recall correctly. Just buy something that meets that spec. Conventional or synthetic it doesn't make much of a difference. I think mine has Valvoline in the rear end at this time.

I also use Pennzoil Platinum motor oil, but you can use whatever brand you want, just try to stay with something that has at least an HTHS of 3.0 to 3.5.

Bleed / flush the brake fluid if it hasn't been done. These cars are all old and the fluid gradually absorbs water as it gets old.

motorking

Hi,
I am the tech manager at Fram/Prestone and Autolite. There are lots of good suggestions on this thread. I would strongly recommend cleaning your cooling system asap and installing new coolant along with a fresh thermostat. I also second the notion that you should not use a K+N air filter on a street car. I just saw an independant lab test that a GM truck forum paid for on air filters. The K+N flter passed 40% more dirt than the paper AC Delco air filter. Happy to answer any filter, spark plug or coolant questions you may have. I have a LS6 CTS-V that has been running Mobil1 since new, we just did a compression and leakdown test at 60k miles and the numbers are better than when it had 7k miles on it.

FiredUpZ28

K&N filters don't screw with the MAF unless you over oil them (and they are overoiled from the factory to prevent drying out on the shelves). Having said that, I think they are a waste - the air filter isn't where you get horsepower. Same with catbacks, throttle bodies, underdrive pullies, etc. Make sure all the fluids are clean and drive it!

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Totally agree here! In fact, there are companies like Dana I believe (don't quote me on the Dana part) who will not warranty their rear ends if synthetic is used. That should tell you something. I have 250K miles on my 98. It has the original rear end which still sounds perfect and it has only had conventional gear oil put in it.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

But... chics love a man with a pricey air filter. (That no one can see.)

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Valvoline is what I used as well with additive.

Mine had a K&N in it when I got it. So I've left it in there and I just don't over oil it and it's also better to just leave them dirty.

Lots of good info here. I changed fluid in my M6 and decided to go with Mobil one Syn trans fluid because it was the only synthetic Tremec approved of... but in hind sight, I should have just used regular old DEXIII. Don't get me wrong, its nice, but the notchyness when cold is kind of a pain. Then again it's a good indicator of when it's warmed up and to let the ripping begin.

I personally think the changing of PS fluid is highly overrated. Same with Brakes. If you are doing the brakes, then ok, go ahead and bleed off some fluid. If not, let it be. You run more risk of contamination in that PS system by breaking into it to flush than you do just leaving it alone. But to each his own.
Good luck with the new ride! Congrats!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Everyone has the problem where the P/S reservoir overflows and then drips fluid on the alternator. Some have fixed the problem with better P/S cooling, but I expect that a fluid change will do just as well. (I did both... so that really doesn't prove anything - but my reservoir is so clean now I can eat off of it.)