Quick question on R/Ts
02-22-2004, 09:32 PM
#1
Quick question on R/Ts Tried researching for the answer but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I'm trying to figure out what my R/Ts are telling me. This wasn't a pro tree start at least I don't think it was. The lights went in sequence 1, 2, 3, GREEN. My first and crappiest pass i hit a .508 which I'm thinking is good if .500 is a perfect light. On the other two passes my R/T was below .500 but I wasn't red lighted. On my last pass the guy red-lighted and his R/T was represented by a -.022. What's the deal? Are they just easier on you about it since it's Test 'n tune day? My other times were .440 and .446. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Justin
Thanks in advance,
Justin
02-23-2004, 10:23 AM
#3
Originally Posted by Coach 02 A3 Z/28
Justin,
Maybe the other guys red lighted 1st. .440 and .446 are lights for sure.
Coach
Maybe the other guys red lighted 1st. .440 and .446 are lights for sure.
Coach
I appreciate the response...what I've found out is that my local track is actually using .000 light rather than the standard .500. Still not pro, they still light in sequence but rather than starting at .500 they just role with .000. So actually I was sucking it up. LoL, still need to get used to my clutch and launching. But R/T isn't really anything to important unless you're into bragging right? Or does it come into play during some races?
Thanks,
Justin
02-23-2004, 04:14 PM
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exactly. the ricers couldnt grasp the concept of half a second(.500) being a perfect reaction time so they decided to change it.
as for racing. if you're into bracket racing then the light is probably 80%-90% of who will win. if you're just looking for E.T.s then the light doesnt mean a thing.
as for racing. if you're into bracket racing then the light is probably 80%-90% of who will win. if you're just looking for E.T.s then the light doesnt mean a thing.
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02-24-2004, 12:45 PM
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In racing.. bracket and especially heads up racing the RT is extremely important. A slower car could actually beat a faster car if he gets a jump off the lights, this is called a "hole shot".
In bracket racing, the RT is just as important because not only do you have to run as close to your predicted ET, but you are sort of penalized for reaction time. In bracket racing you basically take whatever time your car ran on or over your predicted dial-in + your reaction time on or over .500 or .000 depending on the track and compare it to your opponent. Whoever had the RT and ET closer to the .000 RT and dial-in would win.
If your track is running a LED system they are using the .000 RT. Which means a .000 light is perfect where the .500 is perfect on a regular bulb tree. A .025 light is the same as a .525 at the two different tracks.
Unfortunately, if you cut a .508 light at a .000 LED track then you were VERY late on the tree that run would have been a 1.008 light on a .500 tree.
Keep racing!!
The most difficult form of drag racing is using the footbrake or feathering the clutch off the bottom bulb. Of couse next to trying to footbrake a Pro .400 or .500 tree 
It just take alot of practice runs to get in sync with your car and how quick it launches. You will eventualy get a good feel for when to "GO!" off that bottom bulb.
Good luck!
Lee
PS.. most of the amatuer bracket racing around here you only win a trophy. To even be competitive in the standard footbrake clasee (No electrionics) you need a .520 or .020 or better to even have a chance. That is of couse if your car is consistant and you know how to read the weather changes and track conditions and ....etc..
In bracket racing, the RT is just as important because not only do you have to run as close to your predicted ET, but you are sort of penalized for reaction time. In bracket racing you basically take whatever time your car ran on or over your predicted dial-in + your reaction time on or over .500 or .000 depending on the track and compare it to your opponent. Whoever had the RT and ET closer to the .000 RT and dial-in would win.
If your track is running a LED system they are using the .000 RT. Which means a .000 light is perfect where the .500 is perfect on a regular bulb tree. A .025 light is the same as a .525 at the two different tracks.
Unfortunately, if you cut a .508 light at a .000 LED track then you were VERY late on the tree that run would have been a 1.008 light on a .500 tree.
Keep racing!!
The most difficult form of drag racing is using the footbrake or feathering the clutch off the bottom bulb. Of couse next to trying to footbrake a Pro .400 or .500 tree It just take alot of practice runs to get in sync with your car and how quick it launches. You will eventualy get a good feel for when to "GO!" off that bottom bulb.
Good luck!
Lee
PS.. most of the amatuer bracket racing around here you only win a trophy. To even be competitive in the standard footbrake clasee (No electrionics) you need a .520 or .020 or better to even have a chance. That is of couse if your car is consistant and you know how to read the weather changes and track conditions and ....etc..
02-24-2004, 09:31 PM
#10
Hey guys,
Really appeciate the responses. If I can secure a dependable daily driver I'd like to turn my camaro into more of a strip car. I'd love to consider myself a true racer but as for now it has to remain only a hobby. Actually getting into making some money off of it would be such a fulfilling($$$) experience. Oh yeah, from what I've studied as far as my reaction times it's almost as if I actually waited for the green light to get on it seeing as how I was .500 behind. It really didn't seem that way. I'm trying to figure it out right now. The whole thing that gets you it seems is rollout(that one foot or so that it takes you to get away from the staging beams). Obviously I didn't launch at the optimum point...Anyway, a closing thought. Have you guys ever thought how amazing 60' times are. I mean even my crummy 2.2 is still pretty amazing to me. We're talking about moving a 3500lb mass of metal 60' whole feet in a matter of 2 seconds. That's awesome in my opinion. And to those with 60' down there in the low 1s...PHENOMENAL!!! That seems to be quite a feat. Anyway, sorry for rambling and thanks again.
Keep rockin,
Justin
Really appeciate the responses. If I can secure a dependable daily driver I'd like to turn my camaro into more of a strip car. I'd love to consider myself a true racer but as for now it has to remain only a hobby. Actually getting into making some money off of it would be such a fulfilling($$$) experience. Oh yeah, from what I've studied as far as my reaction times it's almost as if I actually waited for the green light to get on it seeing as how I was .500 behind. It really didn't seem that way. I'm trying to figure it out right now. The whole thing that gets you it seems is rollout(that one foot or so that it takes you to get away from the staging beams). Obviously I didn't launch at the optimum point...Anyway, a closing thought. Have you guys ever thought how amazing 60' times are. I mean even my crummy 2.2 is still pretty amazing to me. We're talking about moving a 3500lb mass of metal 60' whole feet in a matter of 2 seconds. That's awesome in my opinion. And to those with 60' down there in the low 1s...PHENOMENAL!!! That seems to be quite a feat. Anyway, sorry for rambling and thanks again.
Keep rockin,
Justin
02-25-2004, 06:21 PM
#11
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yep, just imagine what 1.5-1.7 60 foot time feels like! 
Keep in mind you can have a race car that is also a daily driver. That's my Formula in a nutshell, granted I already have a street car that is much quicker, but I don't own a truck or trailer so I have to keep it somewhat streetable. I'm even driving it 250+ miles to a few races this weekend. But when I had mechanical problems with my Nova, the Formula ran consistent ets (biggest key in bracket racing is having a consistent car, and of course the previously mentioned good reaction times). The thing that has always kept me drag racing (besides my dad taking me out to his races since the age of 9) is that bracket racing can be affordable, expensive, or in the middle depending on your $$$ situation and your willingness to not want to go faster every time! 
Good luck with whatever route you take!
Derek
Keep in mind you can have a race car that is also a daily driver. That's my Formula in a nutshell, granted I already have a street car that is much quicker, but I don't own a truck or trailer so I have to keep it somewhat streetable. I'm even driving it 250+ miles to a few races this weekend. But when I had mechanical problems with my Nova, the Formula ran consistent ets (biggest key in bracket racing is having a consistent car, and of course the previously mentioned good reaction times). The thing that has always kept me drag racing (besides my dad taking me out to his races since the age of 9) is that bracket racing can be affordable, expensive, or in the middle depending on your $$$ situation and your willingness to not want to go faster every time! Good luck with whatever route you take!
Derek
