thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

So I was trying to think of a good way to be able to easily move my wideband lc1 from car to car on occasions to help friends with their cars, but maintain a nice weatherproof connection everywhere in case I leave it in mine for extended periods.

The one thing our different type of cars have in common is none of us use the rear o2 sensors...but the plugs are still there.

So I am thinking of getting a junk o2 sensor, cutting off the pigtail and deleting the pins for signal, but leaving the 12v and ground and wiring those to the 12v power and the grounds for the wideband controller.

Then all I should need is to run a separate reference ground to an eye terminal to be bolted to the engine/frame/etc.

Any one see an obvious flaw with this idea?

99 z

That is what i did. I used one of the rear o2 sensor pigtails for power but i ran the ground from the block to a terminal strip i have stuck under the dash. I grounded it just like it says in the units instuctions. I did that because when im done i can pull the lc1 and put it away. I dont care to keep it hooked up full time. I have it in the car now and it seems to work fine.

I didn't want to use the ground in the pigtail because it might create a ground loop and mess with the lc1.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Awesome, good to know.

I remember seeing the grounds are split but was in a hurry to work on something else and haven't got a chance to look again on the specifics.

joecar

I power mine from the NBO2 heater power/ground pins using an NBO2 plug.

I don't connect analog ground to chassis/engine/whatever ground... I wire the analog signal and analog ground wires directly to my logging device (FlashScan V1 or V2) which has + and - inputs.

If you have a V2 you can just use serial comms (requires a null modem cable, i.e. Rx/Tx crossed).
Also, with the serial comms connection, from V2 you can command the LC-1 to do a free air calibration.

joecar

<hijack>

You weren't really thinking of buying a Mustang, were you (as says your sig)...?

</hijack>

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

FTW! No more 5v linear quadratic equations, and horray to accurate wideband readings

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Awesome!

I bought the cable you told me to in my other thread to connect the LC-1 to the V2 from TAQ quickness (he got me the cable in 2 business days!!!).

So if I understand I can ignore the instructions for wiring the extra ground and simply use the cable? I think I need to open the box and look at the guides and such tonight so I understand better.



No, my younger brother bought a brand new 5.0 and the transmission failed at 5k miles and the dealer/Ford would not honor the warranty at all.

joecar

Before you install, bench test it...

i.e. connect LC-1 to a power source (battery in your car, use a fused jumper wire just in case), and connect the serial comms cable between LC-1 and V2; power V2 from either a laptop or from the car's OBD port;

Note: you should do heater calibration and free air calibration at this point;

then on V2 LCD, navigate to the wideband display; spray a little brake cleaner on a rag, and cover the sensor with the rag, watch V2 LCD display the AFR/Lambda.

joecar

That's sad.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I will do this and check it out.