383ss

iTrader: (14)

wasn't sure where to post this.... would it be ok if I removed my subframes now that I have a 6 point weld in cage???

I'm wanting to save the 40 or so lbs. I should be pulling high 1.4X's.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

I would keep the sub-frames if I were you.

Coach

BigPlanTransAm

the stiffer the better. twist your chasis and you'll be wishing you had those extra 40lbs in there

Jim98WS6

Don't remove them. With a 6-point the only thing tying your front and rear subframes would be your doorbars (and the tub).

Roadrunner 45

iTrader: (1)

ok, so who's right? I just posted this same question in the chassis section and everyone said to ditch the SFC's. For what it's worth- seems like all the "fast" cars 10's or quicker are sans SFC's.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

IMO ditch the SFC. that 6 point cage does tie in the chasis. the only way he will bend the chasis at this point is wrecking the car, not from any launch. the car is very stiff with a weldin 6 point wolf in it.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

My Hot Rod runs pretty fast and I race her every weekend, I have a 6-point roll cage and my SFC are still in my car.

Give Madman a call. He will set you straight.

Coach

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I was talking to Madman about this last week.

He summed it up by saying "the SFC's make up one side the triangle. You can bend the floorpans in 4th gens with a hammer or just a slight impact. If you plan to keep the car even for a couple of years you should keep them."

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

I kept mine, with a 6 point bar. I'll take the weight hit, for the added strength. My car has zero squeaks and rattles too. SFC's were one of the first mods I did.


Bruce

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

Technically, to be NHRA legal with a full cage you need a sill bar in cars that don't have a frame rail on the side.

SFC's make up that bar, or you need to add a sill bar to the cage. SFC's are heavier but easier to do.