Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Cam Install

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Old 05-16-2011, 11:58 AM
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I'm trying to price out a cam install on my own and I've been searching but I haven't found much info on the misc items I need. Can someone please tell me what gaskets, and misc parts I will need?
Old 05-16-2011, 12:11 PM
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im actually almost done ordering all my parts. Some of the manditory parts. Valve springs, pushrods. Might as well get an oil pump, maybe lifters, rockers. itsslow will chime in and fill you in more.
Old 05-16-2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
im actually almost done ordering all my parts. Some of the manditory parts. Valve springs, pushrods. Might as well get an oil pump, maybe lifters, rockers. itsslow will chime in and fill you in more.
Did you get a new crank bolt, and what gaskets did you order?
Old 05-16-2011, 12:18 PM
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not sure on the gaskets. My tuner is ordering all the stuff. But he called me and told me the stuff I need as a minimum. and unsure on the crank bolt also. There is a lot of guys cammed on this forum and they are very helpful. sorry I couldnt help u more
Old 05-16-2011, 01:08 PM
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http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Old 05-16-2011, 01:34 PM
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Patriot or lunati valve spring kit. The lunati is cheaper because it has steel retainers. Comp hi tech pushrods. Cam change kit from tsp, I did a balancer while it was off as well.

To remove the pump and the whole timing set I believe the pan needs to be dropped. With 60k on my car at the time, I didn't see a real benefit in going through all that when the parts had that low of mileage. I would have changed them if I coulda got to the pump pick up bolt.

And of course some assembly lube, oil for a oil change and some coolant. Done deal.
Old 05-16-2011, 02:03 PM
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Assembly lube isn't needed on a roller cam. Just soak the lifters in oil overnight before you install them to ensure the bearings get nice and lubed .
Old 05-16-2011, 02:09 PM
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You need a new crank bolt. Make sure they put it on correctly. Mine loosened twice on me ( I notice the air cond was not working one day and the belt was off the pully).

Also install Motor Mounts if you need them.
Old 05-16-2011, 02:25 PM
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I second the new bolt....mine backed out as well. Get the longer one if possible, it makes re-installing the crank pulley much easier. As far as a gasket set, you should get the timing cover gasket set which will include the front main seal, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, etc.
Old 05-16-2011, 03:21 PM
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OP if you need some deals, let me know. I went to my buddies performance shop today and he had shown my all my parts for my install. He gets his comp cams at show price and I also found out that the guy down the street (JR Performance) worked for Comp Cam for ten years, then left and decided to start his own shop (JR Performance). He was the one who spec'd my cam for its grind.
Old 05-16-2011, 05:18 PM
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Is the crank bolt TTY (torque to yield)? If so then it stretches upon proper torque and shouldn't be reused.
Old 05-16-2011, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by siggyfreud
Is the crank bolt TTY (torque to yield)? If so then it stretches upon proper torque and shouldn't be reused.
The OEM bolt is a TTY and should only be reused to install the balancer (in lieu of a balancer installation tool) and then ****-canned.

I had a new one break right at the end of the threads. To have peace of mind, spring for the ARP bolt (234-2503) for about $30.
Old 05-16-2011, 07:31 PM
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Be careful when using ARP, or non-expanding stuff on applications that originally called for a TTY bolt. The crank bolt is probably fine, but on areas where you expect heat expansion (like aluminum cylinder heads) it can be a no no. There IS a reason they used TTY bolts, and it wasn't because people were being cheap.

When I built my Saleen motor I was very strongly encouraged by a number of builders, including those who used to build the Saleen 302 Extreme motors, to use TTY where it was originally called for.
Old 05-16-2011, 09:36 PM
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cam
valve spring kit(springs, retainers etc)
ls2 timing chain
hardened pushrods of the correct length
oil pump optional(recommend melling 10296 which i run on both my LS)
new crank bolt oem or ARP(ARP is reuseable if thats what you want)

I would reccomend calling texas speed or another vendor and getting a package price on the whole deal.
Old 05-17-2011, 02:48 AM
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hnic, where are you located?
Old 05-18-2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
hnic, where are you located?
I'm in Mass. I think I'm going to go with the Texas Speed 233/239 lift:595"/.603" LSA: 113 cam package, with double spring kit and pushrods.

I'm kind of deciding between that and the Lunati Voodoo cam 232/238 LSA 113 Lift: .599/.601

and also the Vengeance Racing VRX5 236/238 Lift:.601/.605 113 LSA


Which cam would you guys go with and what do you guys estimate the dyno #s would be?
Old 05-18-2011, 12:28 PM
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I had the 233/239 in my old SS. It is actually nothing more than a 232/238 cam on Comp XE-R lobes. Works well but be prepared to lose a bit of lowend with it. I did not pass the stock cam on the dyno until after 3000+ rpms where it began to pull away and above 4000-4200 it ran away.
Old 05-18-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
OP if you need some deals, let me know. I went to my buddies performance shop today and he had shown my all my parts for my install. He gets his comp cams at show price and I also found out that the guy down the street (JR Performance) worked for Comp Cam for ten years, then left and decided to start his own shop (JR Performance). He was the one who spec'd my cam for its grind.
Let me know how that goes or ends up costing for you.
All I have right now are headers, just need a tune (who's your tuner?), and I am contemplating a cam....it would have to be a 'stageI' or light cam if you will....
Old 05-18-2011, 02:38 PM
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Guitar. Email me. Wcryan@hotmail.com



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