Cam Install
#1
Cam Install
I'm trying to price out a cam install on my own and I've been searching but I haven't found much info on the misc items I need. Can someone please tell me what gaskets, and misc parts I will need?
#3
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Patriot or lunati valve spring kit. The lunati is cheaper because it has steel retainers. Comp hi tech pushrods. Cam change kit from tsp, I did a balancer while it was off as well.
To remove the pump and the whole timing set I believe the pan needs to be dropped. With 60k on my car at the time, I didn't see a real benefit in going through all that when the parts had that low of mileage. I would have changed them if I coulda got to the pump pick up bolt.
And of course some assembly lube, oil for a oil change and some coolant. Done deal.
To remove the pump and the whole timing set I believe the pan needs to be dropped. With 60k on my car at the time, I didn't see a real benefit in going through all that when the parts had that low of mileage. I would have changed them if I coulda got to the pump pick up bolt.
And of course some assembly lube, oil for a oil change and some coolant. Done deal.
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You need a new crank bolt. Make sure they put it on correctly. Mine loosened twice on me ( I notice the air cond was not working one day and the belt was off the pully).
Also install Motor Mounts if you need them.
Also install Motor Mounts if you need them.
#9
I second the new bolt....mine backed out as well. Get the longer one if possible, it makes re-installing the crank pulley much easier. As far as a gasket set, you should get the timing cover gasket set which will include the front main seal, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, etc.
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OP if you need some deals, let me know. I went to my buddies performance shop today and he had shown my all my parts for my install. He gets his comp cams at show price and I also found out that the guy down the street (JR Performance) worked for Comp Cam for ten years, then left and decided to start his own shop (JR Performance). He was the one who spec'd my cam for its grind.
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Be careful when using ARP, or non-expanding stuff on applications that originally called for a TTY bolt. The crank bolt is probably fine, but on areas where you expect heat expansion (like aluminum cylinder heads) it can be a no no. There IS a reason they used TTY bolts, and it wasn't because people were being cheap.
When I built my Saleen motor I was very strongly encouraged by a number of builders, including those who used to build the Saleen 302 Extreme motors, to use TTY where it was originally called for.
When I built my Saleen motor I was very strongly encouraged by a number of builders, including those who used to build the Saleen 302 Extreme motors, to use TTY where it was originally called for.
#14
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cam
valve spring kit(springs, retainers etc)
ls2 timing chain
hardened pushrods of the correct length
oil pump optional(recommend melling 10296 which i run on both my LS)
new crank bolt oem or ARP(ARP is reuseable if thats what you want)
I would reccomend calling texas speed or another vendor and getting a package price on the whole deal.
valve spring kit(springs, retainers etc)
ls2 timing chain
hardened pushrods of the correct length
oil pump optional(recommend melling 10296 which i run on both my LS)
new crank bolt oem or ARP(ARP is reuseable if thats what you want)
I would reccomend calling texas speed or another vendor and getting a package price on the whole deal.
#16
I'm in Mass. I think I'm going to go with the Texas Speed 233/239 lift:595"/.603" LSA: 113 cam package, with double spring kit and pushrods.
I'm kind of deciding between that and the Lunati Voodoo cam 232/238 LSA 113 Lift: .599/.601
and also the Vengeance Racing VRX5 236/238 Lift:.601/.605 113 LSA
Which cam would you guys go with and what do you guys estimate the dyno #s would be?
I'm kind of deciding between that and the Lunati Voodoo cam 232/238 LSA 113 Lift: .599/.601
and also the Vengeance Racing VRX5 236/238 Lift:.601/.605 113 LSA
Which cam would you guys go with and what do you guys estimate the dyno #s would be?
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I had the 233/239 in my old SS. It is actually nothing more than a 232/238 cam on Comp XE-R lobes. Works well but be prepared to lose a bit of lowend with it. I did not pass the stock cam on the dyno until after 3000+ rpms where it began to pull away and above 4000-4200 it ran away.
#18
OP if you need some deals, let me know. I went to my buddies performance shop today and he had shown my all my parts for my install. He gets his comp cams at show price and I also found out that the guy down the street (JR Performance) worked for Comp Cam for ten years, then left and decided to start his own shop (JR Performance). He was the one who spec'd my cam for its grind.
All I have right now are headers, just need a tune (who's your tuner?), and I am contemplating a cam....it would have to be a 'stageI' or light cam if you will....