BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

Trying to decide how to spend some money but I'm running out of things to do. I'm going to list a few options and if ya'll could just give me your opinion one which one would benefit me the most.

Mods are: Stock unported LS6 heads, TR224, full bolt ons minus a pulley, PT4000, 3.23s, stock suspension besides SFC and LCA's. Weight is 3475 w/ me. I put down 404rwhp on my last dyno.

My choices are:

-3.73's
-Bigger cam (236/.600 size)
-Hals up front
-Relocate battery or lightweight battery
-Clean up/polish the heads
-All of these are pretty much worthless, save your $

Keep in mind this is still my daily driver until hopefully this summer or so.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

Full bolt ons minus a pulley. Iam thinking this encludes headers?

-3.73's (I would go to 4.10's)
-Bigger cam (236/.600 size) (Yes, Thunder Racings new T-Rex cam)
-Hals up front (Yes, will help at the track).
-Relocate battery or lightweight battery (not worth much)
-Clean up/polish the heads (this will help make more HP)
-All of these are pretty much worthless, save your $ (the only one I wouldn't do is relocate the battery)

Good luck to ya.

Coach

BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the input.

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

the bottle = cheap horse power

get some 4.10's and 28" et's

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I would go with gears & tires. 3.73s are supposed to be the best choice for autos. They put you into your power zone in the lights. With your Yank I assume you have Nittos at least....BFG DRs or Hooisers would be better. With all that power + traction, you will be twisting the body / frame & might be getting wheel hop (which will KILL your rear end). You need the SFCs & LCAs too. And if you are still running a 10 bolt, get a TA Girdle with the studs. Got enough $$ for all that? Torque arm maybe?

DMcRacer

iTrader: (2)

Since this is your daily driver, I would do the Hals and the heads before the big cam & gears. The gears will hurt your mpg and put your rearend at greater risk, assuming its a 10 bolt. The big cam will also be hard on the valve trane. I would wait till the summer for the cam & gears, when you have a daily driver.

CHRISPY

With the stock rear I would keep those gears in there.

Bigger cam is good

Battery in the back is good

Are you running full slicks and skinnies? If not I would get them.

Stock rear is marginal with 3.73's in an A4. Highest I would go is 3.42 but I wouldnt bother if I were you.

full slicks/skinnies, big cam, move battery. At least 3-4 tenths IMO (Unless you already have slicks/skinnies of course

BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

For ya'll saying my rear would be weaker with the 3.73's, is this because aftermarket gears are weaker or just because it'll put more stress on the rear? The gears will be GM, which are stronger than most aftermarket brands.

Will Hal's help any without skinnies up front? I don't plan on doing skinnies until I have a daily.

CHRISPY

Its the number of teeth and the size of the pinion that cause the problems. I have broken a total of 5 rear-ends and every one was with either Richmond or GM gears. The 3.42s I had never broke once.

:cheers

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

1) LS6 intake
2) ASP crank underdrive pulley
3) QA1 front shocks, stock spring perches
4) Port and polish heads or get GM CNC LS6 heads and sell yours

More gear is nice but it will cost a fair amount and you should do the stuff I listed above first.