99zMD

iTrader: (4)

Need to figure out the best way to wire this amp/sub combo-

Amp specs-
MAX POWER (2 OHM)1000W x 2

RMS POWER (2 OHMS)700W X 2

RMS BRIDGEDPOWER (4 OHMS)1400W X 1

Sub specs-
# Power Range: 600 - 1800 Watts
# RMS Power Handling: 600 Watts
# Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts

Subs are Alpine Type R's and Amp is a Planet Audio AC2000.2 (probably not putting out the full rated power).

How would I go about wiring the 2 dvc 2 ohm subs to the 2 channel amp at 2 ohms? Or would it be better to run the amp bridged @ 4 ohms? Not sure how to get that either....

Capricio

you only have 3 choices: 1 Ohm (parallel), 2 + 2 (separate), and 4 (series).

You can't make a single 2 Ohm load out of it, unless you get a second identical cone. You can hook up each coil to a channel on the amp, just be SURE to give each channel input on the amp the exact same signal with a splitter, or if there is a "mono" selection on a switch, select that so the amp sums red and white RCA to give each coil the exact same signal.

You do not want to give two voice coils on the same cone a different stereo input. The amp is really overkill for the cone you are using. If there was any practical way to get a second cone in there, it would about right.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

There are 2 identical subs that will be running off this amp.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

With two 2-ohm DVC subs you can have the following configurations:
1 channel at 0.5-ohms, 1.33-ohms, 2-ohms, 5-ohms, or 8-ohms
2 channels at 1-ohm or 4-ohms each

Capricio

Sorry you had so many "2's" in your description that the actual quantity slipped by me. This link is always useful when figuring out impedances:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp

I see the amp is only like $100. I don't know much about Planet Audio, but at that price point I can't imagine it's going to be able to sustain the rated RMS values, especially in a sub application pushing bass through an A/B amp. One option in this case is buy a second identical amp, and have each one drive a cone individually, with 1 channel per coil. This is assuming you have the funds and physical space. Some people will tell you that coils in a DVC should be driven from the same channel but I think as long as you don't mix the inputs it'll be okay.

As far as 5 ohms across a bridged amp, from what I have read, wiring SEPERATE speakers in series (as opposed to the 2 coils on a DVC) is a bad idea, owing to a phenomena called Back EMF (electromagnetic force) causing the speakers to interfere with each other electrically, and cause distortion, and in extreme cases an amplifiers output stage to fail (blow.)

http://www.matrix-audio.co.uk/suppor...e-coil-woofer-

If you can re-purpose the amp you have, I'd say your best option is just get a big class D monoblock. Class D amps really excel producing bass.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You're right, I was just stating the theoretical possibilities for different combinations of parallel and serial connections. To get 5 ohms you'd have to wire one DVC speaker in parallel (1-ohm net) and the other in series (4-ohm net) then connect the two in series. This would not be a good idea simply because the 1-ohm sub will be 6dB louder than the 4-ohm sub (almost twice the volume).

Capricio

I was wondering about the volume level. ...it's the same amount of current flowing through both cones, but a much sharper drop in potential (voltage) between the two cones...

I'm ashamed to say I should know since I have a real EE degree, but have been doing IT work for almost 20 years. Most of my audio knowledge is based in Home Theater, too.

Anyways, OP, if you do some reading on damping factor and impedance, you'll find that in general it's better to run with higher impedances and just pony up the dough for a bigger amp to meet your RMS requirements. I just hooked up a kid at work with a couple of 12" CDT HD subs running at 2 Ohms combined load... it smoked the amp (AP10001D). Granted, he was stomping on them constantly, but I think we're going with two smaller class Ds and running them at 4 Ohm next. Low impedance loads (1 and 2 Ohms) are just bad news unless buy a killer amp (JL or RF) for a lot more money than a good cheaper (AP, Pioneer, Kenwood) high powered monoblock at 4 Ohms.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

Should I be looking for an amp to run at 2 or 8 ohms since I can't run this setup at 4 ohms?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

If this was for a home system there would be no question - go with 8-ohm. But car systems are different because they operate in an environment that is full of electrical noise. That is why higher pre-amp output voltage and lower speaker impedance is usually recommended. Both result in greater current flow and resistance to interference from electrical noise. So in this case, a 2-ohm stable amp is not only a better choice but also a much more common one.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

Got it. Back to the search I go.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

Too much, too little or just right?

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...1&locale=en_US

Capricio

I'd say that's a good tool for the job. You could also consider some of the Hifonics "Brutus" series as a cost effective alternative.

An alternative to 2 Ohms is running two amps at 4 Ohms each. This is fine if the subs are in different enclosures and you don't use a remote volume **** just for the subs. Its less risky than a 2 Ohm load and probably cheaper than an amp that can reliably maintain a 2 Ohm load.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

Really trying to avoid running a third amp in the car, so I'll probably end up going with 1 strong class D at 2 ohms.

Capricio

If you like that RF you linked, I don't think you'll be disappointed. I'd say give the Brutus a look before you pull the trigger. Wasn't trying to steer you into buying two cheaper amps, just laying out less expensive choices.

Like I said earlier, running 2 Ohms is fine as long you get a somewhat "overbuilt" amp for it. To me, that means JL, RF, upper end Hifonics, a few others, and beyond that some really pricey stuff (Memphis, etc). Don't want to start a brand war or anything like that. You can pretty much look at the pricing and get what you pay for.

DIYmobileaudio.com is a good resource for product reviews, etc.

99zMD

iTrader: (4)

No worries, I appreciate the help and was looking for different options. I may have to flip a coin between the brutus and the rf though, they seem pretty close.