Converter does not seem to seat all the way after rebuild
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Converter does not seem to seat all the way after rebuild
Is there something I could have done wrong during my rebuild that would make the converter not be able to get the third click? I checked end play and everything was within spec when I installed everything. My pads to bellhousing measurement is only giving me about 3/4". I have installed tons of transmissions as an r&r tech in the past and this one just does not feel right. The converter is a freshly rebuilt PTC that was already on the car before. I can always put the transmission to the engine and see if the converter is out so far that it interferes with the flexplate and then I will know I am not all the way in right? If the converter is not fully seated it should be pressed against the flexplate right? I messed with it for thirty minutes and only seemed to get two clicks out of it.
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I honestly do not go by the amount of clicks because in some cases you will not hear or feel them all. The only way to make sure its in all the way is to measure it. In the past when I have had one that was stubborn I have stood the trans on its out put shaft and then tried to get the converter installed the rest of the way. This normally works for me and its always best to do this with a second set of hands. HTH Vince
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I will give it another go today. I stood it up yesterday and was trying to get it to seat more for awhile with no luck but a fresh try might be all I need. I was wondering since its supposed to be 1 & 1/8th if it was only seated in 3/4" it would interfere with the flexplate and not spin freely right? If I put the trans up to the engine and have the 1/8" of space between the mounting tab and flexplate I should be seated right?
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Double cage sprag, transgo 4l60 release spring kit, alto red eagle master kit with 3-4 powerpack, beast sunshell, wide sungear bushing, transgo unbreakable ring kit, transgo stage 2 shift kit. I will compare my old stock converter with this one and see if I notice anything. I set the clearance on the input drum housing to .025 like it said in the powerpack instructions and the endplay is at .016. I see the pump stator tangs in the pump and they look fine. It is the transmission that came with the car so yes it is an ls 4l60. I didn't have the pump alignment tool but I used the empty case method where I installed the pump into the empty case without the seal and then tightened the pump bolts in the back of the pump with the case tail side up.
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It was just a bastard it finally seated all the way. I don't want to take it back out is it necessary to put the fluid in the converter before putting it onto the shaft?
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I was having such a problem with it going in that I was waiting to put fluid in after I made sure everything was fine. I am glad I took it back off to add fluid though because I found the reason it probably was giving me so much crap. The o-ring on the input shaft tore even though I had put assembly lube on it. I got another o-ring and put fluid in the converter and it went in easy.
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Finished getting my car back to stock and the tranny rebuild. Man am I so stoked that everything is fine with the trans after installing. I am ASE certified in autos but this still is only my third transmission in 6 years. Definitely recommend anyone who is willing to try to learn to rebuild there own transmission or to go buy a cheap th350 or th400 and do one of those for practice. I ended up with only about 600 in parts to rebuild and put lots of good stuff in it.