Pinion seal parts?
05-22-2011, 02:44 PM
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Pinion seal parts? My pinion seal needs replaced and I'm wondering what exactly I need for the job, just the seal itself? I also read they changed the seals mid year 2001, anyone know how to find out which seal my car came with being a 2001 model? Any help at all is appreciated!
05-23-2011, 11:35 AM
#3
Honestly, these are the kind of jobs i let differential specialists deal with. When you replace the seal, the pinion MUST go back to the way it was. Also, make sure it is just the seal, could be a bad bearing. If the bearing is bad, it can cause too much play in between the gears which could cause more problems than you want.
As far as finding out what seal, i forget where they are but i know there will be numbers on the housing of the differential. OR, find out by looking it up by VIN number and sometimes on the drivers side door it will tell you what differential you have. Its like a GU7 code or something, i forget, but i know it gives away what differential option you have. With them changing the seal in the middle of the year makes it even more challenging. I would try to look it up by VIN, or the code, and go from there. Worst case scenario would be to take it to a shop, let them figure it out, change it, and have a warranty with it. Might put a dent in your wallet though. Good luck.
As far as finding out what seal, i forget where they are but i know there will be numbers on the housing of the differential. OR, find out by looking it up by VIN number and sometimes on the drivers side door it will tell you what differential you have. Its like a GU7 code or something, i forget, but i know it gives away what differential option you have. With them changing the seal in the middle of the year makes it even more challenging. I would try to look it up by VIN, or the code, and go from there. Worst case scenario would be to take it to a shop, let them figure it out, change it, and have a warranty with it. Might put a dent in your wallet though. Good luck.
05-23-2011, 12:56 PM
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I bought a rear end kit from Ratech which had everything to replace the carrier bearings and seal. The seal did not fit yet it should have.
Just take the old one down to the parts store and match it up. There's two possibilities, they'll have both.
If you are just leaking and having no bearing noise issues, replace the seal and leave the rest alone. If it leaked enough to runthe front bear dry and it's making noise, don't bother replacing the seal, get it rebuilt.
The pinion nut is not coming off easily. Need a good double strike impact gun or a long pry bar and a way to hold it. Take note of the drive shaft u joint to yoke relationship when you take it apart, match it back up the same way. Scribe a line on the end of the pinion shaft that corresponds with a line you scribe on the pinion nut. Note how many threads of the pinion shaft stick out past the nut.
The idea is to tighten the pinion nut back to exactly where you loosened it from plus ~ 1/8 extra turn. Put the pinion nut back on and slowly tighen it so that you do not go past the two scribe marks with the correct amount of pinion ut threads showing. Idea being to put the same tension on the crush sleeve as before you took it apart.
Since I assume you are already leaking r/e fluid, prepare to get really dirty as everything involved will be coated with r/e oil and dirt.
Jon
Just take the old one down to the parts store and match it up. There's two possibilities, they'll have both.
If you are just leaking and having no bearing noise issues, replace the seal and leave the rest alone. If it leaked enough to runthe front bear dry and it's making noise, don't bother replacing the seal, get it rebuilt.
The pinion nut is not coming off easily. Need a good double strike impact gun or a long pry bar and a way to hold it. Take note of the drive shaft u joint to yoke relationship when you take it apart, match it back up the same way. Scribe a line on the end of the pinion shaft that corresponds with a line you scribe on the pinion nut. Note how many threads of the pinion shaft stick out past the nut.
The idea is to tighten the pinion nut back to exactly where you loosened it from plus ~ 1/8 extra turn. Put the pinion nut back on and slowly tighen it so that you do not go past the two scribe marks with the correct amount of pinion ut threads showing. Idea being to put the same tension on the crush sleeve as before you took it apart.
Since I assume you are already leaking r/e fluid, prepare to get really dirty as everything involved will be coated with r/e oil and dirt.
Jon
05-23-2011, 05:41 PM
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Buy the seal at AA or autozone and be sure to purchase "#2 Permatex Form A Gasket Sealant NON-Hardening PLIABLE SEALANT". This is the key to making this a successful job.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=526681_0_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=526681_0_0_
