98 trans am Dyno
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98 trans am Dyno
I finally pulled the trigger and spent the money on a dyno tune.
The car and mods
98 Trans Am
Full Bolt ons
BBK LT headers
Offroad Ypipe
Electric cutout
LS6 intake
UD Pulley
SLP Lid
FTRA
160 degree thermostat
Yank ss3600 stall
free mods p&p TB, descreened MAF, etc...
After the tune it made 352.9 rwhp and 411.8 torque.
On my nitrous pass I made 491.2 rwhp and 580.6 torque to the tires. I am spraying it with a 150 shot plate wet kit.
I was more than pleased with the numbers, and very surprised. But all that really matters are track times which I hope to get very soon.
The car and mods
98 Trans Am
Full Bolt ons
BBK LT headers
Offroad Ypipe
Electric cutout
LS6 intake
UD Pulley
SLP Lid
FTRA
160 degree thermostat
Yank ss3600 stall
free mods p&p TB, descreened MAF, etc...
After the tune it made 352.9 rwhp and 411.8 torque.
On my nitrous pass I made 491.2 rwhp and 580.6 torque to the tires. I am spraying it with a 150 shot plate wet kit.
I was more than pleased with the numbers, and very surprised. But all that really matters are track times which I hope to get very soon.
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I was able to make it out to the track today. The results were a best of 13.037 at 106.66 with a 60 foot time of 1.951 on motor
on nitrous I was able to get my first 11 second pass. 11.994 at 115.59 mph with a 60 foot time of 1.918.
After these passes the car jsut slowed down with consistent 13.1s and im pretty sure my bottle was empty because I dropped to a 12.4 ET.
I am ok with these numbers because the temp out was 94 degrees and the track was not very good. I was at Lapeer Dragway in Michigan. Any comments or thoughts as to what it should run with a decent 0 foot would be very much appreciated.... I also have some suspension including SFC LCA PHB and STB on a M and H racemaster drag radial.
on nitrous I was able to get my first 11 second pass. 11.994 at 115.59 mph with a 60 foot time of 1.918.
After these passes the car jsut slowed down with consistent 13.1s and im pretty sure my bottle was empty because I dropped to a 12.4 ET.
I am ok with these numbers because the temp out was 94 degrees and the track was not very good. I was at Lapeer Dragway in Michigan. Any comments or thoughts as to what it should run with a decent 0 foot would be very much appreciated.... I also have some suspension including SFC LCA PHB and STB on a M and H racemaster drag radial.
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looked it up on dragtimes... looks like his DA was about 3000 feet... corrected out to a 12.5 @ 110
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...ime=12:53%20PM
id say with some decent air and a good 60' (should get a 1.60 with that converter and traction) should be good for some low 12.2's 12.4's... n/a. Nitrous seems off to me as you didnt really MPH like a 500 rwhp car.
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...ime=12:53%20PM
id say with some decent air and a good 60' (should get a 1.60 with that converter and traction) should be good for some low 12.2's 12.4's... n/a. Nitrous seems off to me as you didnt really MPH like a 500 rwhp car.
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I agree, everyone at the track today seemed to have the same complaint of running .7-1.0 second slower than they have ran in the past... And for the nitrous I only got the one 11 second pass, after that I think the bottle was empty or low pressure because when I purged there was no cloud like normal when it is full. I was expecting an 11.4 or faster on the 150 shot
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And for my 60 foot what is the problem? I tried everything just smashing the gas off the line... stalling it up and flooring it and everything inbetween and the best I could do was a 1.9x. Do I need more tire? a different gear? (i have 2.73)
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On motor it felt like I was hooking decently, maybe a little spin. But on Nitrous I would turn it on once I got out of the hole because i know i would spin if I sprayed it out of the hole
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agree, I thought 410 torque was a lot out of a bolt on car. I thought that was what a cam ls1 would put down. But I cant argue with the dyno graph. I dont know if it is a happy dyno or what the explanation is.
The next rear end I put in will be a s60, 12 bolt or ford 9. I cant justify putting money into a stock 10 bolt
The next rear end I put in will be a s60, 12 bolt or ford 9. I cant justify putting money into a stock 10 bolt
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the high torque is likely from the converter flashing... you can tell by the shape of the curve. You have to remember some dynos read rpm by the rollers and with a stalled auto will show up at a lower rpm on the graph then actual engine rpm as long as it isnt locked.. basically the converter is doing its job at multiplying torque to the wheels... When i got my car dynoed as soon as i hit the gas the converter flashed to 5000rpm but the graph showed a curve from 4000-6500 rpm because it read rpm from the rollers. someone correct me if im wrong
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agree, I thought 410 torque was a lot out of a bolt on car. I thought that was what a cam ls1 would put down. But I cant argue with the dyno graph. I dont know if it is a happy dyno or what the explanation is.
The next rear end I put in will be a s60, 12 bolt or ford 9. I cant justify putting money into a stock 10 bolt
The next rear end I put in will be a s60, 12 bolt or ford 9. I cant justify putting money into a stock 10 bolt
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Ya I know I jsut need more seat time, and I recently buton some subframe connectors and that seems to really help the car hook better. I just really want to figure out how to cut a better 60 foot. a 1.9 is garbage with everything I have done.
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Those times and 60's are way off. I 60' low 1.7 on motor 12.0's@111 1/4 and mid 1.4 on the bottle 10.8's@125 1/4 out of a PY3600E (not a N/A convertor) and 3:23 gears.
Did they do anything with the torque management in the computer?
Being a fellow west michagander ive always hooked at mid michigan everytime i went there. Ive never tried lapeer so i dont know how there prep is.
Did they do anything with the torque management in the computer?
Being a fellow west michagander ive always hooked at mid michigan everytime i went there. Ive never tried lapeer so i dont know how there prep is.