Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I had an RST last year and sent it in over the winter to have it rebuilt and the guy upsold me on a Kevalar? RXT version..said it should be stronger and resist heat better than the RST. Well I finally got the car running a few weeks ago and broken in and tonight decided to go over 10psi)to 12...in 4th gear the clutch was slipping so bad it was like I had a stocker in there..and this was on street tires. At first I thought the car might be spinning so I data logged to confirm. The RED is RPM, GREEN is speed, and blue is IAT. You can see in 3rd (the first jump) how the speed and RPM mimic eachother..like they are supposed to..and the other 2 spikes were in 4th gear I let off and got back on and it did the same thing. =( The damn thing has 823 miles on it. Any suggestions on a better clutch?

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

cant really help you lol but probably should talk to mcleod as im sure something must be wrong with it and a warranty should cover it? from what i have heard the rxt is a great clutch and i am leaning towards buying one for my conversion.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

rps twin..

KagA152

iTrader: (23)

thats not what i want to hear, mine is on a ups truck somewhere right now. like got a ls1 said, hopefully you can get it warrantied

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I will find out Monday. I literally pulled the RST out after 2 years of 700hp beating the absolute **** out of it and had it upgraded and rebuilt for peace of mind and the new engine...and every since Ive had it in the clutch lets out at the very top(the old one did this but never slipped and I asked them to fix this and said they could) and upgraded to the better material...=( the entire car will have to come apart and be down for the middle of summer while waiting for this to be resolved..if it does

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

this sounds like your clutch isn't fully engaging and that's why it's slipping....

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I kinda agree...but without seeing whats going on in the car, don't really know for sure.

I have been debating what clutch to put behind my 370...at this point...screw it, I'll save the coin and call Katech.

1nastyss

iTrader: (12)

I have this clutch , Im sure Mcleod will look out for you, no reason why that bitch should be slipping

turbo 408

what master cylinder are you running i was having same promlem and changed to adjustable tickperformance and havent had a problem

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I have a factory modded GTO master on the car. (its in a 350z so a tick wont work)

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I wonder if I could do the opposite of what SPEC does. Spec puts a spacer behind the TOB to bring it closer to the clutch when the pedal is too low..what if I space the trans say 1/4" from the bell housing to bring the TOB farther away from the clutch fingers if that would effectively lower the "catch" on the pedal and eliminate the possibility of there being slight preload on the fingers...which seems to be the issue. Im just hoping that the damage isnt too bad to where it wont work. I only have 800 miles on the clutch and it slipped for the first time the other day.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Okay I know this is completely stupid(no need to tell me) but as a test(it would drive me crazy if I didnt at least try something) I separated the transmission from the bell housing 1/4" and using 1/4" washers I bolted it back up(leaving a 1/4" gap between trans and bell housing) I took the car out for a test drive and IMMEDIATELY I noticed the pedal engagement moved down about 2"(good sign) so its not RIGHT at the top....one thing I did noticed though is that without a clutch pedal stop if I push too far I hear a click(anyone know why?)...might be the throw out at max extension? Luckily the clutch is well disengaged before that click happens so I positioned the stop to RIGHT before it clicks. I took it out on the highway...got up to 4th gear nice and easy, turned the boost up to 15psi and rolled into the gas...and the tires(not the clutch) spun like crazy. I double checked with data log and watched the speedo shoot up with the rpms. So that def. helped/worked.

On the other hand(the intelligent thing)I ordered a 1/4" plate thats made to go between the bell and trans from Mcleod and it will be here Thursday so that I can safely remove the spacers. It just sucks because im not sure how much damaged was done to the clutch as a result of it slipping(only did it 4 or 5 times but still..it had to wear down enough to do so) and Im pretty sure I would get hassled trying to get this rebuilt.

And another annoying thing is I had talked to Mcleod about this issue last year when they mentioned the plate and the rep said it would absolutely not make a difference in pedal height and that the clutch was designed to be used with stock components.. Maybe they should look into offering this as part of the clutch like spec does. I had to pay 140$ for the clutch to work properly.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Your clutch should be OK. The copper ceramic MIBA pads on the RXT can handle a ton of heat and won't glaze over like an organic disc will, so it can be slipped and still hold strong.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

I have the Kevlar RXT...

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

It's obviously the disk/clutch stack height problem.The clutch fingers are out too far because the stack is thinner for some reason.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Didn't know there was such a thing.....far as I know there's only the organic RST and the copper ceramic RXT, with the only difference between the two being the discs. Do you know what part number you have?

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

There is no part number as of yet. Its not offered on the sites. Call them directly.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

When will people learn these things have to be checked for clearance?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Kevlar friction materials are less forgiving once they're to the point of no return.
About when shift forks stop "bending."

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Well maybe before spending 1000$ on a clutch/flywheel setup there should be a disclaimer from Mcleod saying "There is a possibility this will not fit without buying a bunch of other ****."

Also, with the spacers in(maybe this will stop once the actual ring is in) im noticing a huge vibration that I didn't feel before at around 3k rpm in nuetral and in gear.. So if the solution to the problem was to buy a spacer place that causes this that will be another 140$ chasing down a problem that should of been solved before putting a product on the market. It would kind of suck to have a clutch cost you a transmission and who knows whatever it will destroy.