Driveshaft won't come... off!
06-04-2011, 04:44 PM
#1
Driveshaft won't come... off! Hey,
Trying to get the driveshaft off. No matter what I do, I cannot pull the driveshaft out of the transmission. So we're on the same page, this link has a good picture of the problem area:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f8075dd65
Long story short: after removing the propeller shaft flange bolts, I tried pulling the driveshaft into the rear differential. I'm strong enough to pull it all the way until it clicks, but the front end still won't budge. Since the two-piece shaft is not supposed to be bent more than a couple of degrees, there is no way to move the shaft any further back unless the center joint is also compressible.
Ideas on how to get this thing out of the car?
EDIT: I tried pulling the front half of the shaft toward the back, but even with all 6 bolts off, the shaft won't budge. This indicates that the front of the shaft is still securely mated to the transmission somehow. Do you think that I should use something like Liquid Wrench on the interface?
Trying to get the driveshaft off. No matter what I do, I cannot pull the driveshaft out of the transmission. So we're on the same page, this link has a good picture of the problem area:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f8075dd65
Long story short: after removing the propeller shaft flange bolts, I tried pulling the driveshaft into the rear differential. I'm strong enough to pull it all the way until it clicks, but the front end still won't budge. Since the two-piece shaft is not supposed to be bent more than a couple of degrees, there is no way to move the shaft any further back unless the center joint is also compressible.
Ideas on how to get this thing out of the car?
EDIT: I tried pulling the front half of the shaft toward the back, but even with all 6 bolts off, the shaft won't budge. This indicates that the front of the shaft is still securely mated to the transmission somehow. Do you think that I should use something like Liquid Wrench on the interface?
06-04-2011, 06:00 PM
#4
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That's weird. They slide right out.
Unbolt it from the diff, then pull that back half off. Next, Unbolt the center bearing and let that hang slightly, then u Unbolt the driveshaft from the rubber hub, pull the driveshaft out of the trans.
Unbolt it from the diff, then pull that back half off. Next, Unbolt the center bearing and let that hang slightly, then u Unbolt the driveshaft from the rubber hub, pull the driveshaft out of the trans.
06-04-2011, 06:23 PM
#6
You trying to pull it out without removing the diff side first 
?
Most all driveshafts use a spline at the trans side, so it should pull out, AFTER you remove and drop the other end...I would think there is some sort of hold-down for the center section too (have not looked).
Make sure you MARK the driveshaft and mating flange on the diff and also the transmission/center section and install them in the same place (marks line up) without rotating the trans or diff, cause otherwise it will not be phased correctly and as a result, you will get vibrations.
Finally, whenever you work with a bolt pattern (on a circle in this case), there is a torque sequence you need to follow for both removing (not as critical) and installing the bolts/nuts. For instance, you don't go in a circle, but start at one end, do opposite end, go back to same side as first (but different bolt), then alternate back on forth (on new bolt)...There is plenty of info on the net to show you what a 4, 6, 8, 10 and up to 60+ bolt sequence should be, if you're unsure.
?Most all driveshafts use a spline at the trans side, so it should pull out, AFTER you remove and drop the other end...I would think there is some sort of hold-down for the center section too (have not looked).
Make sure you MARK the driveshaft and mating flange on the diff and also the transmission/center section and install them in the same place (marks line up) without rotating the trans or diff, cause otherwise it will not be phased correctly and as a result, you will get vibrations.
Finally, whenever you work with a bolt pattern (on a circle in this case), there is a torque sequence you need to follow for both removing (not as critical) and installing the bolts/nuts. For instance, you don't go in a circle, but start at one end, do opposite end, go back to same side as first (but different bolt), then alternate back on forth (on new bolt)...There is plenty of info on the net to show you what a 4, 6, 8, 10 and up to 60+ bolt sequence should be, if you're unsure.
Last edited by JNR_Design; 06-04-2011 at 06:29 PM.
06-04-2011, 07:22 PM
#7
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The front of the shaft has a small guide pin. If you can't compress the center CV enough, you will have to pulle the diff side and the carrier and then it should slide off the trans. This trans is not splined like most.
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06-04-2011, 09:09 PM
#9
Yeah I did the exact opposite the whole way through (I also never even balanced my driveshaft)
I'm a self deemed master at taking this trans out (5 or 6 times since march).
I just take all 6 bolts out of the rubber coupler, pry the driveshaft off of it with a tiny pry bar, and move the rubber piece. I take all 6 bolts off so that way there's flex in either side of the coupler. There's also some grooves that you can use to pull the small pin through when pulling down.
I'm a self deemed master at taking this trans out (5 or 6 times since march).
I just take all 6 bolts out of the rubber coupler, pry the driveshaft off of it with a tiny pry bar, and move the rubber piece. I take all 6 bolts off so that way there's flex in either side of the coupler. There's also some grooves that you can use to pull the small pin through when pulling down.
06-05-2011, 02:13 AM
#10
TECH Enthusiast
Steps 7-10:
Reference mark the location of the propeller shaft CV joint to the differential flange.
Remove the propeller shaft CV joint-to-differential flange bolts.
Remove the propeller shaft coupler-to-transmission flange bolts, nuts and washers.
Move the propeller shaft toward the front of the vehicle in order to release the propeller shaft CV joint from the differential flange.
On reinstall:
Steps 9-11:
Install the propeller shaft coupler-to-differential flange nuts. Tighten the bolts to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
Thoroughly clean the threads using denatured alcohol, or equivalent, and allow to dry. Apply Threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or equivalent, to the propeller shaft-to-flange bolt. Ensure that there are no gaps in the threadlocker along the length of the filled area of the bolt. Allow the threadlocker to cure approximately 10 minutes before installation.
Install the propeller shaft CV joint-to-differential flange bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence (1-6) to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Those are pretty clear instructions to remove/reinstall the driveshaft from the differential...
At least that's what my highschool diploma and real-life experience are telling me from reading that...
-meaty
06-05-2011, 07:25 AM
#12
Success! Turn out that the propeller flange had rusted slightly and was simply stuck to the shaft. A little bit of Liquid Wrench and couple solid taps with a rubber mallet popped it free.
Now I have 12 hours to finish this clutch installation. Wish me luck.
Now I have 12 hours to finish this clutch installation. Wish me luck.
06-05-2011, 11:25 PM
#16
TECH Enthusiast
Good luck. If you don't have a transmission jack, I recommend bending your knee's up while lying on your back, to hold up the tail shaft on the transmission when you're trying to mate it back on the motor.
-meaty
09-19-2016, 10:45 PM
#18
I had the same issue as you. I just uninstalled a driveshaft and helped the guy with his T56 transmission removal so I could put it in my car in the future. That driveshaft came out so simply, almost too simply.
Back to my problem, my 67 Chevelle was not so nice to me lol. Had to hit the yoke on the driveshaft about 30 times to free it up from the inside. Must have been rusted or something because i did all kinds of creative crap to try to get it out lol. Anyways, I am getting good at reviving dead threads, but thank you for going through this years before me
Back to my problem, my 67 Chevelle was not so nice to me lol. Had to hit the yoke on the driveshaft about 30 times to free it up from the inside. Must have been rusted or something because i did all kinds of creative crap to try to get it out lol. Anyways, I am getting good at reviving dead threads, but thank you for going through this years before me
