bones_c

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys I know this doesnt relate to my LS1 but I just bought a 97 cavalier 2.4L Twin Cam for a dd... I only paid $150 but it runs and drives... it was leaking tons of oil from the head gasket area so i replaced it etc... now my problem lay with the head bolts. They will not tighten... any ideas?

04GTODKH

I know enough about this to be dangerous but, do you know if your head bolts are "torque to yield" bolts? If so that maybe the reason why they don't tighten anymore.

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

Yes, take the bolts and throw them in the trash and buy some new bots from GM or get some from ARP.

jdweim

also make sure there is nothing in the bolt hole, water, oil, coolant, etc., if there is enough in there and it can't get out that will stop your bolt short of tightening down all the way

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

Yea I was going to toss then but I'm in Hawaii on an island and there is no bolt set here... Not sure about torque though I guess I'll just have to wait for new bolts!!

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

I hope the thread in the block is still good.

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

it's a $150 cavalier. just use duct tape and JB weld j/k

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

^^^ just like what others said, try new bolts and drive the hell out of it

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

Lol duck tape :p yea I'm hoping the threads in the block are not stripped.. Thunk I'm just gana try some lock tight so it won't leak

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

so what do i do if the block is stripped? is it junk then or can i do something about it?

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

Is this happening on every bolt?

Does the bolt begin to thread in? Does it start to torque down and then suddenly becomes loose?

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

3 out of 10 bolts got tight... the bolt threads in but then once the bolt head hits the top of the valve cover it just spins and doesnt tighten... drove it out of the garage this afternoon to make space for my trans am and it lost almost all its oil so i added a quart just to get it on the street... im getting a new bolt kit soon should i just throw some loctite on? im not going to tear into the car again... i already got my moneys worth lol

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like these are valve cover bolts....

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

The valve cover bolts go through the head into the block

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

...ok I think this is making a little more sense now...

When you take your valve cover off (which I think is actually your camshaft housing cover) you can see your camshaft... so you are driving bolts through the camshaft housing and into the cylinder head and not into the engine block. Now if these bolt threads are stripped I would recommend contacting a local machine shop to see if it would be worth pulling the heads...

Good Luck - Keep us updated

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

well heres the deal... i pulled the head and everything again yesterday and put in heli coils... newbie mistake that i made i forgot to check the timing putting everyhting back together and it would start...crank but no start... im about to head back out to the garage in a few to do the timing and hope for the best... would the timing make it not start if it is off bad enough? i know its more than a tooth or two

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

These can be very tricky motors for those who have never worked on them before....Now, wanna hear the bad news? These 2.4L engines NEVER go through head gaskets unless they have been overheated badly. My mom no joke has 305K miles on her original 2.4L engine in a 2000 Grand AM -never replaced head gasket.

There are two spots where you saw oil leaking from, either out of the water pump (ran off timing chain) but more than likely the valve cover gaskets which are like the cam cover gaskets which you have to pull the timing chain, front cover off to replace. Regardless, if you did all that work and now the timing is off you are going to have to pull the head again as I'm sure you damaged the valves....

bones_c

iTrader: (3)

ok i tore it down AGAIN and set the timing and it starts and runs... now another problem lol... at idle i believe it is the timing chain maybe has some slack in it cause an awful noise but like i said only at idle. When u just barely touch the pedal noise goes away... my solution that i have come up with for this is to drive the **** out of it till it blows up because i paid 150 for the car and not even another 50 in parts so its still not even a 200 dollar car.... as for the oil leak... the oil was coming from the valve cover gasket/the prior people who did the head gasket stripped the block... after the helicoils which there are only four out of ten holes helicoiled because i couldnt tap all the holes without pulling everything off the motor or pulling the motor...and black rtv there is only a minor leak that i can see coming from one of the bolts that didnt get tightened all the way....

F working on this car anymore!!! lol paid 150 for it and it even brought my insurance premium DOWN on all three cars ill just drive her till she blows

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you remembered to load the tensionor completely? I can't remember because they changed tensionors but isn't that the one where you press on it and it pops out against the chain? That is the only time I have seen those make the noise you are talking about but then go away as the RPMs increase.

vetteboy99

Put a ls9 in it!