STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Just a little word to the wise:

The rockland standard gear "no walk" tailshaft bushing no doubt has its place. That place, however, is NOT as a stock replacement for a simple worn bushing. Every vendor I've talked to tells me that it is basically a "last resort" bushing, when all others have spun, or the housing bore is too large to accept a stock bushing. They also tell me that they have stopped installing them completely (due to installation failures like mine) or, they only install them in worst- case scenarios. Of course I don't find any of this out until AFTER I install, and ruin one in my T56 Tail housing. Now I just have to hope and pray that it didn't take too much material out of the housing when I installed it that the housing bore will be too large for a stock bushing.

Normally i wouldn't care, but this was a $55 bushing, and now everything that I hear from sponsors tells me that all I need(ed) is a stock one!

I'd also like to hear from those out there that have replaced their output shaft bushing, successfully. Please tell me what type of bushing you got, and what the specified application was for. Also, what means you used to uninstall / reinstall the bushing.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Bump for a new week. I know I'm not the only person out there with an issue, please speak up!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

For the GM 27 spline stuff, I've used both bronze & lead babbit types. Timken, Delco and others repackage both as different PNs. They are the same for tonnes of applications; if it's 27 spline RWD, it takes it.

An f-body tailhousing being too large of i.d. is pretty funny to me; many are tight & the bushing goes into the oil grooves. That's the only part of rebuilding T56s that sometimes fails no matter how much you freeze the bushing, heat the tailhousing and press or drive the bushing in.

A poorly lubricated bushing due to high-speed run can fail but if a new one is installed in a housing that has proper tight clearances, you're not going to tend to have a problem with them.

IMO, the length of the stocker is sufficient for it's support of the vertical / lateral play of the mainshaft, given the length of the mainshaft to yoke spline section providing more than adequate alignment.

Get lemons, make lemonade: If your tailhousing happened to be too large for the new bushing you install, pull it and get it bored and go Chrysler output 30 spline shaft.

Re: other persons w/ them, there have been a handful of threads here.

More here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/14732770-post2.html

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Try the TH350 bushing in it. Its what I use but normally as said above the housing is too tight. Yours might be just perfect for it now.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I used the Rockland bushing and it spun on me in one day but did not destroy the housing. It was loctited and staked the way thet said to do. I even honed it out because the DS was just too damn tight and it still failed. Went back to a OEM bushing and no issues.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

So is a stock bushing available at like Autozone or O'Reilly's then? Or should I use the TH-350 bushing as mentioned? Is there even a difference between them? Thanks.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

To your questions, yes the one you're going to use is.; yes that's what it is.; I've not pulled one that was different in o.d. when removed so not really but... Tremec advises they don't service it separately. Go back and read my second paragraph above.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

... I guess i should have been more clear. The ID of the housing was too small, thus forcing the bushing to be squeezed out into the oil gallies (sp?) in the housing. I guess i'll drive it out and get a new bushing, but i'm a little nervous about installing another one.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Did you press-in the bushing or did you have a shop do it? I always use a spud to press-in those t.h. bushings so that the bushing doesn't try deform/crush or wrinkle up during installation. If you or the shop isn't using a spud, that could be part of the issue. I also lubricate the outer bushing and ID of the housing bore before installation. Was the trans yoke difficult to install after replacement? Was the lubricating hole of the bushing lined up with the galley in the housing? Does the mainshaft have excessive lateral play (ie too loose of bearing preload)? Just trying to figure out a another possible issue as to what caused it to fail initially.

Mike

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

I installed a driveshaft that a fine upstanding citizen of LS1tech ripped me off on. The driveshaft was out of round (.030 runout) as well as being out of balance. I only drove it for a short amount of time (10-15 miles) with said driveshaft, intermittently try to determine the cause of my vibration. I replaced the driveshaft with a brand new one, and the vibration was all but gone. I've been chasing this vibration since last October. I've checked every single piece of the drive line, and this (bushing) was the only thing that hadn't been checked off my list of things that could possibly be causing my vibration.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

I just wanted to give a little update on this "vibration" issue. I installed a new tailshaft bushing (part # xxxxx) and it was a perfect fit. I actually had to sand down the ID of the bushing, and mated it PERFECTLY to my yoke. Nice and tight, just the way I like it .

Then my vibration was still persistent. It would vibrate beginning around 80, and linearly increase to terrifying proportions from there.

HUGE thanks to studderin on this next part. He gave me a little advice that has helped, not eliminated, but helped my vibration issue GREATLY. What he told me to do is, put a washer (i used two) between the transmission crossmember and the body, on the bolts. Apparently that U joint was just pissed off with its working angle, or something. I'm going to make up some ~1/4" spacer plates, and hopefully this will remedy my issue.

Now, my vibration is MUCH less, and comes on about 90, and is tolerable up to the top of 4th ~120. I'm going to space it down some more, but I'm just excited to be able to rip the car!!!!!

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

OP.
Click here for the solution to my persistant T56 vibration problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...vibration.html

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Pretty sure you posted that in my other thread, and pretty sure I told you this same thing:

THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM.


My vibration is in any gear in which you can reach 80. It is not a vibration in the transmission...................................... .................

spook99maro

iTrader: (2)

Just curious but what kind of drive shaft? I had a bronze bushing walk and used my friends tail shaft with stock bushing and I had new u-joints installed and balanced my drive shaft and still had the vibe. I have now got rid of that steel drive shaft with a pst aluminum one and put my tail housing back together with another bronze bushing and all my vibes are gone.

I remember reading that steel vs aluminum drive shafts carry harmonics differently so idk if that could be what plays into the improvement.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Its a PST 3.5" aluminum

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I aplogize for not tracking your many threads for redundancies, apparently wasting your time and posting what I think might be helpful information to your issue in a completely different thread.

I have some more thoughts on your issue but I am only afraid I will further waste more your time and only get yelled at. I WISH YOU LUCK.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

I merely put it in caps so it wouldn't be skimmed over. I'd be more than happy to hear your other ideas.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

My car once had a nasty vibration that I couldn't trace. Tore down the T56 and found three cracks in the mainshaft near the output splines. Hope it's not that, but it's something to consider.

Mike

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

T56 was just apart, everything looked good. The vibration only occurred with some mods to the rear end (9")

95 TA - The Beast

iTrader: (2)

I have been following this for a while, and I believe you just answered your own problem...

If the vibration only started after you did something to the rear end, then the rear end is the problem.

Stop looking at the transmission/driveshaft as your issue. If the vibration was not there before you did whatever to the rear end, then the rear end is the problem.

Check your pinion angle, try it at zero, try it at -.5, then -1.5, then -2. Try to determine if doing that changes the vibration at all. If not, then set it to where you want it and leave the trans and driveshaft alone.

Hell, want the ultimate test, swap your 9" into someone else car. Yeah, huge PITA, but if it has a vibration in someone elses car with thier transmission, then again, it is the rear end.

Fact of the matter is, no-one can help you on this over the internet. That is the only truth here. Everything anyone suggests is grabbing at straws.

Tear the rear end apart and have all the pieces checked out for issues. I mean, what "mod" did you do to the rear end that changed it from smooth to having this vibration?