lightemupnj

iTrader: (3)

I've read numerous threads on the topic and there seems to be many different ways to go about the install. The easiest way appeared to be buying a MM torque arm for a mustang and using that with the 8.8. As far as the spring perches you can just cut em off the 10 bolt and weld them to the 8.8? And what do you do about the control arms? Use mustang ones?

cantfind2nd

iTrader: (24)

camaro ones. look at my post on here...

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...8-project.html

BL: Use a Mustang 8.8 housing. Cut off the Mustang axle tubes about 3 to 4 inches from the housing. Cut off the old 10-bolt tubes (make absolutely sure you measure, measure, measure before going to the next steps.) Machine a slight amount off the OD of the 10-bolt tubes and grind down the ridge inside the Mustang 8.8 axle tubes. Press the 10-bolt tubes into the 8.8 tubes and weld them up. (Drill some holes in the Mustang tubes so you can plug weld those, as well.) make sure to fully weld the 8.8 tubes to the housing with nickel rod. For more details, read my entire writeup above. My method only works with Car housings. I recommend against using the Exploder/Mtneer housings, but to each his own.

cantfind2nd

iTrader: (24)

whats wrong with explorer housings? i used complete rear, narrowing long side to match short side.im now -3.5 inches both sides perfect for mini tub. it has 3.25 tubes compaired to small car ones. large disc brakes and the parking brake cable is on top and easy to hook up. 31 splines and a locker from the factory. even has abs if ya want it, im sure it could be adapted.also you dont need nickle rod(doesnt hurt though)... it is not cast iron, it is cast steal, just preheat and mig it. i work for caterpillar we use this process alot.

Gimme

iTrader: (1)

Nothing "wrong" with them. They're just heavier, more difficult to adapt if using the 10-bolt axle tubes, can't use the mustang-style torque arms on them, have to fill the speed sensor hole, can't adapt them for TCS or ABS, can't use the factory sway bar (hard to find the correct u-bolts,)etc. I have Ford 9" ends that use the Ford big-bearings, TCS and ABS, I use my own factory F-body disk brakes and rotors, and have 3.73 gears with a TracLock that has Carbon/Kevlar disks....and it weighs about 20 pounds, give or take, less than the Exploder. It's all personal preference, really. The Exploder rears are truck rears, where people are less picky about unsprung weight. Mustang 8.8s were designed for cars...where people care more about unsprung weight. Personal preference, really, I guess. Apples to apples, the Mustang 8.8s will always weigh less than Exploder 8.8s when equal components are used.

Every chassis man, crew chief, Ford rear-end builder I have ever talked to, said that the rears are cast iron. Search around for "Cam" on here. He can give you the real scoop, since he's built quite a few of these rears, and is considered THE expert with welding 8.8 pumpkins. Besides, when you throw a grinder on the 8.8 center section, it spews out very small red/orange sparks; the tell-tale sign of cast iron. So, agree to disagree, I guess.

According to Bruce Griggs, there is something in the neighboorhood of 150,000 PSI of force on the rear torque arm mounts at full throttle...why not use Nickel rod? Cheap, cheap insurance policy.

Finally, there are a few folks insisting that Exploder 8.8s are much stronger than Mustang 8.8s, and I have never found this to be the case. The real strength of the 8.8 is in the form of the gear set and spline count. I normally take Bill Buck's advice on anything Ford...http://popularhotrodding.automotive....ang/index.html

Cheers.