LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

lt1 block questions.

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Old 06-20-2011, 04:31 PM
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Default lt1 block questions.

This is my first f body and I pulled the motor from my 96 camaro that has about 110k miles on it. Was told it had a blown head gasket and sat for about 7 months. I'm looking at taking it to the machine shop to get some work done on the block. I was advised to take it in and get new bearings and o rings, get it honed, and arp 2000 bolts. I called up a local shop and they said with that many miles it'll have to be bored 30 over cause there is most likely a lip in the cylinders (which there is). I'm not really looking to bore it at the moment unless I really need to, id rather put it else where but will do what I gotta do to get it running good. I don't know to much about the blocks, but if I have to get it bored, what should I do for pistons and the other components? Also, does a 350 bored 30 over make a 355?
Old 06-20-2011, 04:44 PM
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If the cylinders are that out of round then yes you'll need it to be bored to clean it up. You don't necessarily need a .030", you may be able to get away with a .020", but that won't matter too much.

You'll need oversized pistons also. There are several companies who offer a nice budget hypereutectic piston. A 350 .030" is a 355.
Old 06-20-2011, 04:48 PM
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The machine shop can measure the bores to see if they're still true as well as making sure the cross hatch is still in tact and that there aren't any vertical marks in the bores that may hinder the sealing of the rings. If that all checks out then there's no reason why you can't reuse the stock rods/pistons as long as you use them in the same bores they came out of.
If you do have to bore it, it depends on what you want to do. If you are staying N/A then you can stay with a .030 over stock replacement hyper-u and be fine. You can also do rod bolts, but it would be highly recommended you get the rods redone. Again, I wouldn't do bolts unless you are doing to go over 6500rpm. JMO.
I had a stock rebuild done on an engine with approx 100K on it and the bores checked out great and the stock rods/pistons were reused. You may be able to do so as well.
Old 06-20-2011, 05:53 PM
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The ridge you feel is more likely carbon not actual wear. If the shop thinks that kind of mileage demands a .030" over bore I probably would not trust them. Either they are shady or ignorant.
Old 06-20-2011, 06:47 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it. I also think some of these shops are just trying to make money off of me since I am new at this. Some of the cross hatch is starting to go and I believe also that it is carbon. When I called them up they also said if I do rod bolts then to get the rods redone as well. I have another 350 sitting in my garage that I was going to build into a 355 so I can still drive with this one in the meantime. Ill give a few places a call and see what they say.
Old 06-21-2011, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
The ridge you feel is more likely carbon not actual wear. If the shop thinks that kind of mileage demands a .030" over bore I probably would not trust them. Either they are shady or ignorant.
My LT1 had what looked like a ridge, as stated above it was just carbon. Used light oil and 600 grit sandpaper to remove it.

Al 95 Z28 going back together slowly.
Old 06-22-2011, 11:32 AM
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I think I'm going to get it bored 30 over. I'm getting pistons and rods, eagle forged rods n srp forged pistons for 330. What should I get as far as rod bolts?
Old 06-22-2011, 11:47 AM
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What comes in the rods?

...and so it begins.
Old 06-22-2011, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by xdeified
I think I'm going to get it bored 30 over. I'm getting pistons and rods, eagle forged rods n srp forged pistons for 330. What should I get as far as rod bolts?
thats a good idea.........as for the new rods they will have bolts in them that will work just fine.......that will be a strong setup.......
Old 06-22-2011, 12:44 PM
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good call with the .030 over...i had to do it to mine and it was a good opportunity to put in fresh pistons, etc...you will have a motor good for many more miles.
Old 06-22-2011, 02:32 PM
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Yeah I figured id just get it rebuilt just so it lasts a lot longer as well. And sorry, I didn't know they come with them, all this is new to me, just trying to build knowledge! I got mr. Gaskets head gaskets a few weeks back because I thought that was all I was going to have done to it. Now that I'm boring it, do I need different head gaskets?
Old 06-22-2011, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by xdeified
Yeah I figured id just get it rebuilt just so it lasts a lot longer as well. And sorry, I didn't know they come with them, all this is new to me, just trying to build knowledge! I got mr. Gaskets head gaskets a few weeks back because I thought that was all I was going to have done to it. Now that I'm boring it, do I need different head gaskets?
This is when compression ratio (CR) come into play. Typically 11-11.5 is a CR to shoot for and depending on your deck clearance and what type of piston you choose, you can choose different head gasket thickness to achieve your desired CR. Sounds a lot more complicated that it really is. Look online for a CR calculator and play with some numbers.

Some numbers you will need to know are: Bore 4.030, stroke 3.46, head CC ~55cc, deck clearance is how far you piston sits in the hole.. typically .020-.025.
Old 06-22-2011, 06:33 PM
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I have mr. Gaskets 5716g (.026 thickess) gaskets. Was wondering if they'd still work with it now being bored 30 over. But I found the answer to my question. Is there anything else recommended that I should have done while its out?
Old 06-22-2011, 06:44 PM
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If you don't mind me asking where did you get the price on you pistons and connecting rods? Does that include rings? thanks.
Old 06-22-2011, 09:19 PM
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A bud of mine had them and was gonna use them for his build but never did, so he sold them to me.
Old 06-23-2011, 06:26 AM
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Ask them what it would cost to vat the block, bore or hone the cylinders, add new pistons, bearings and rings, turn and or polish the crank, then compare with a complete short block that you can buy...
Old 06-23-2011, 10:19 PM
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I am wanting to aim for a CR of 11:1. I am trying to play with some numbers with a chart I got, I do not know what the top ring down is, or what dome or dish is..I talked to a machine shop and they said anything over 10.5 is useless on pump gas, which i can tell isn't true. But, I am trying to figure out how much I need to get milled from my heads to reach that.




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