Water pump 1, Opti 0
06-23-2011, 11:27 AM
#6
Question,...why not tap the weep hole and screw in a fitting for a small hose to drop the water BELOW the opti?
I hav'nt even got my 383 running and I'm having opti nightmares?!
I hav'nt even got my 383 running and I'm having opti nightmares?!
06-29-2011, 03:13 PM
#7
I think the Opti is good. Looks like the water came in the electrical connector. Cleaned it up and put it back on. In a few days I should have the engine back in so I can see what it does. Was able to make up a test for the cap, I think it's good.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
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06-29-2011, 04:17 PM
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06-29-2011, 04:47 PM
#10
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Put super glue in the weep hole ..... And like above I spray the crap out of my bay with simple green and then power wash It 
Last edited by djjab57; 06-29-2011 at 05:00 PM.
06-29-2011, 07:15 PM
#11
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Hell as soon as I saw a leak I changed it to an electric pump. That and my 160 therm my engine hasn't seen over 180 on my gauge. Don't know if that helps. But I didn't take a chance on letting it drip on my opti any at all. So I still have the original one in it. I would advise the electric pump.
06-30-2011, 07:21 AM
#14
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Because in order to install it, you take the stock water pump drive shaft out (hammer out the shaft and bearing) and hammer in a freeze plug instead. With the freeze plug in place, there is no way for water to get to the weep hole.
The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
06-30-2011, 11:12 AM
#15
Because in order to install it, you take the stock water pump drive shaft out (hammer out the shaft and bearing) and hammer in a freeze plug instead. With the freeze plug in place, there is no way for water to get to the weep hole.
The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
Now, about the "uses less power" statement. What tells the electric pump how much water to pump? Lets say your racing a guy up a long hill, or sitting in traffic. How does the electric water pump know? Does it pump more water at high RPM? Think about it....
Al 95 Z28
06-30-2011, 11:57 AM
#16
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It would only not leak if the pump motor was magnetically coupled to the impeller. Otherwise there is still a seal. When the seal leaks guess where the water goes?
Now, about the "uses less power" statement. What tells the electric pump how much water to pump? Lets say your racing a guy up a long hill, or sitting in traffic. How does the electric water pump know? Does it pump more water at high RPM? Think about it....
Al 95 Z28
Now, about the "uses less power" statement. What tells the electric pump how much water to pump? Lets say your racing a guy up a long hill, or sitting in traffic. How does the electric water pump know? Does it pump more water at high RPM? Think about it....
Al 95 Z28
Yes, of course, mounting an electric water pump to the stock housing requires a seal. (On the front, not on the back where the stock weep hole is...) I sealed mine with blue RTV. Of course it *could* leak, but unlike a stock setup, it is not designed to do so. Mine has never leaked and has been on the car since 2005.
Nothing *tells* the EWP what to pump aside from voltage. It pumps a constant amount at idle, WOT, and everywhere in between. It pumps more than a stock unit at idle, and less at WOT. If you spend all day at WOT, sure, don't get an EWP. (Are you driving a road race car? Actually, I have read that even some of those guys are running dual EWPs.)
Most people's anecdotal evidence will show that for a normal street/strip daily driver car, an EWP cools better in stop-and-go traffic than a stocker precisely because it is flowing more at lower RPMs. It certainly flows plenty enough for what most people consider 'spirited' driving, with WOT passes from stoplights and such. Not to mention the other ancillary benefits: Run the EWP whenever the key is on, so you can cool the motor more effectively in the staging lanes. Bleed the cooling system with the motor not running. Changing an EWP out does not require removing the entire housing. etc.
So don't do an EWP if you don't want to... I really don't care. Just stating my opinion.
06-30-2011, 03:07 PM
#17
The EWP can leak from it's weep hole...which on a Meziere is on the lower front....NOT directly on the Opti like a OEM pump can/will.
FWIW I have had a EWP on for 12 years and 80k miles...WAY longer than any OEM pump which all leaked through the weep hole on on the Opti...thus killing the Optis. When my 96 went out of warrenty I replaced the then 500 mi dealer installed AC Delco WP...which was leaking.
In 12 years I have had no "water got on my opti" problem as a result of a OEM pump leaking.
Yes a fitting and tube can redirect the water if a OEM pump leaks....right on the belt...which it already does also if it leaks
If The OEM pump had a $.05 part inside as a bushing seal vs a $.02 part it might hold water. Something anyone will discover once they gut one to go electric.
FWIW I have had a EWP on for 12 years and 80k miles...WAY longer than any OEM pump which all leaked through the weep hole on on the Opti...thus killing the Optis. When my 96 went out of warrenty I replaced the then 500 mi dealer installed AC Delco WP...which was leaking.
In 12 years I have had no "water got on my opti" problem as a result of a OEM pump leaking.
Yes a fitting and tube can redirect the water if a OEM pump leaks....right on the belt...which it already does also if it leaks
If The OEM pump had a $.05 part inside as a bushing seal vs a $.02 part it might hold water. Something anyone will discover once they gut one to go electric.
06-30-2011, 03:15 PM
#18
You are missing the point. The weep hole is designed to leak. That is its function. To let you know that the bearing in the water pump has worn out.
Yes, of course, mounting an electric water pump to the stock housing requires a seal. (On the front, not on the back where the stock weep hole is...) I sealed mine with blue RTV. Of course it *could* leak, but unlike a stock setup, it is not designed to do so. Mine has never leaked and has been on the car since 2005.
Nothing *tells* the EWP what to pump aside from voltage. It pumps a constant amount at idle, WOT, and everywhere in between. It pumps more than a stock unit at idle, and less at WOT. If you spend all day at WOT, sure, don't get an EWP. (Are you driving a road race car? Actually, I have read that even some of those guys are running dual EWPs.)
Most people's anecdotal evidence will show that for a normal street/strip daily driver car, an EWP cools better in stop-and-go traffic than a stocker precisely because it is flowing more at lower RPMs. It certainly flows plenty enough for what most people consider 'spirited' driving, with WOT passes from stoplights and such. Not to mention the other ancillary benefits: Run the EWP whenever the key is on, so you can cool the motor more effectively in the staging lanes. Bleed the cooling system with the motor not running. Changing an EWP out does not require removing the entire housing. etc.
So don't do an EWP if you don't want to... I really don't care. Just stating my opinion.
Yes, of course, mounting an electric water pump to the stock housing requires a seal. (On the front, not on the back where the stock weep hole is...) I sealed mine with blue RTV. Of course it *could* leak, but unlike a stock setup, it is not designed to do so. Mine has never leaked and has been on the car since 2005.
Nothing *tells* the EWP what to pump aside from voltage. It pumps a constant amount at idle, WOT, and everywhere in between. It pumps more than a stock unit at idle, and less at WOT. If you spend all day at WOT, sure, don't get an EWP. (Are you driving a road race car? Actually, I have read that even some of those guys are running dual EWPs.)
Most people's anecdotal evidence will show that for a normal street/strip daily driver car, an EWP cools better in stop-and-go traffic than a stocker precisely because it is flowing more at lower RPMs. It certainly flows plenty enough for what most people consider 'spirited' driving, with WOT passes from stoplights and such. Not to mention the other ancillary benefits: Run the EWP whenever the key is on, so you can cool the motor more effectively in the staging lanes. Bleed the cooling system with the motor not running. Changing an EWP out does not require removing the entire housing. etc.
So don't do an EWP if you don't want to... I really don't care. Just stating my opinion.
Al
06-30-2011, 04:09 PM
#19
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All of the above is true. If it pumping more water or even the exact same amount, where does the power come from? With the LT1 stock set up it comes from the crank shaft through the timing chain. With the electric set up, mechanical energy is used to turn the alternator to generate electricity, then an electric motor has to convert it back to mechanical energy. If the alternator and the motor are both 85% efficient..... Get what I'm trying to say? Electric pumps, unless on a total loss system like in my Camaro on the left, do use engine power. BTW, my strip cars all have electric pumps and fans so I can cool them down between rounds.
Al
Al
The power difference comes from the fact that the EWP does *not* require as much energy to turn at WOT because:
1) It flows less water at WOT, as mentioned above.
2) The stock impeller design presumably cavitates and produces much more resistance at higher RPM
3) It is removing rotational mass, which by definition costs power, if only slightly. (EDIT: And I do emphasize slightly here, as in probably too small to measure. It is mostly 1&2)
We are only talking in the realm of like 5 rwhp here, but by the way this is dyno proven numerous times, not my personal opinion.
Last edited by TheHeadFL; 06-30-2011 at 04:27 PM.
06-30-2011, 04:16 PM
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