View Full Version : Rotor Won't Come Off WTF!?


105
06-22-2011, 08:17 PM
Update: problem solved.

******************

Some how the driver side rear rotor is jammed on there crooked. I tried threading a nut onto the one of the bottom studs but that didnt do s. I don't get it. I need some advice before I accidentally destroy something.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotorfucked001.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotorfucked005.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotorfucked004.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotorfucked003.jpg

1BAD02WS6
06-22-2011, 08:21 PM
Is the e brake on? If it's not it's about to pull the shoes off and you won't have an e brake

Carter01
06-22-2011, 08:34 PM
E brake on or you have worn a grove in the rotor when doing burnouts without a line lock. If it is a groove just keep working it back and forth, it will come off just takes a while.

105
06-22-2011, 08:35 PM
Crap. No they're not on. The passenger side came right off though, what the hell? You can tell I know what I'm doing.:eyes:

105
06-22-2011, 08:37 PM
Ok should the ebrake be on or off? You guys are saying two different things. Its currently off.

Carter01
06-22-2011, 08:42 PM
I was trying to say that either the E-brake is on (on meaning pulled up) or a groove has been worn in the rotor. You need the E-Brake released, not pulled up at all.

105
06-22-2011, 08:45 PM
I was trying to say that either the E-brake is on (on meaning pulled up) or a groove has been worn in the rotor. You need the E-Brake released, not pulled up at all.

Ok. I did release the ebrake before hand, so it must be a groove as I have done burnouts in the past with my line lock at the track. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Wesmanw02
06-22-2011, 09:47 PM
Ok. I did release the ebrake before hand, so it must be a groove as I have done burnouts in the past with my line lock at the track. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Get a big hammer, hit the rotor so its back on straight with the hub, and then try to pull it off again. It should come right off. If it doesn't, tap around the outside edge of thne rotor evenly to work it off. Hitting one side of the rotor will just cock it back to where it is now and make it impossible to remove.

TheSilverOne
06-22-2011, 10:09 PM
if the ebrake was stuck on, the wheel would have a considerable amount more of brake dust on it than the other 3 wheels.

105
06-22-2011, 10:26 PM
After I threaded the nut onto the lower stud to push the bottom of the rotor back on straight, I took the nut off and the bottom edge of the rotor just pushed back out on its own. I never pulled the bottom edge of the rotor out to begin with.

I hope the shop that installed my 9" didn't F something up. This is the first time I've ever taken the rotors off myself.

TheBearJew
06-23-2011, 12:55 AM
Big Hammer

Crashz28
06-23-2011, 09:20 AM
Yep take a BFH and knock it back straight and then try to take it off I have always had the worse case scenerios with brake jobs I stopped doing them at other peoples houses becuase of stuff like this I make them bring there cares to me now lol. Oh and some colorful language spoken with a loud tone of voice might help keep your calm!

wssix99
06-23-2011, 10:26 AM
Let's back up a bit...

What did you do before you took the rotor off? Did you change anything with the eBrake or turn the eBrake star wheel? Did you rebuild the eBrake?

Looking at the picture above, it looks like your eBrake release cable is not in the mount hanging down from the axle. Also, I don't recall the backing plate being crooked on the axle flange. Does the other side look the same?

105
06-23-2011, 10:49 AM
Let's back up a bit...

What did you do before you took the rotor off? Did you change anything with the eBrake or turn the eBrake star wheel? Did you rebuild the eBrake?

Looking at the picture above, it looks like your eBrake release cable is not in the mount hanging down from the axle. Also, I don't recall the backing plate being crooked on the axle flange. Does the other side look the same?

I didn't change anything with the brakes other than how the shop mounted the lines to my 9", which can be seen here -http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1436678-ebrake-brake-line-bracket-help.html. These pics also show the passenger side still assembled. The passenger side rotor came off with no problems.

Once I unbolted the brake line bracket from the LCA bracket I was able to slide the ebrake line off of its hook.

vjo90rs8
06-23-2011, 11:07 AM
Any brake job I have done where the rear rotors use a shoe-type e-brake has had problems with the rotors sticking. Just take a big rubber mallet and let out all of your frustration out on it, it will come off. A few months ago I did the brake on our FX35 and I had to pry one of the rotors off with a pry bar because it was stuck so bad. This is 100% normal!

wssix99
06-23-2011, 01:08 PM
I didn't change anything with the brakes other than how the shop mounted the lines to my 9", which can be seen here -http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1436678-ebrake-brake-line-bracket-help.html. These pics also show the passenger side still assembled. The passenger side rotor came off with no problems.

Once I unbolted the brake line bracket from the LCA bracket I was able to slide the ebrake line off of its hook.

So, it looks like your eBrake cable is off on the driver's side, then? I think that is part of the problem. I'll bet your eBrake may be out of position as a result.

If that's the case, then a hammer is the only way you can go. Something might break or something may not... If you disconnect the eBrake cable all together so the actuator is completely free, that may help. If the actuator is being pulled in an odd direction, that may be contributing to your issue.

wfritts911
06-23-2011, 01:48 PM
Hmm...maybe do what you said you did with the lugnut to pull the bottom end back in. Then while its pulled back in, knock the top side out. Then undo the lug nut and see if that helps. Weird that it pops out on its own...

-Will

TransAmX2
06-23-2011, 02:58 PM
+1 on the BFH fix

szalkerous
06-23-2011, 03:17 PM
Yep, I've had to ruin a few rotors in the past because they were seized onto friends' cars. Most of the time pulling a rotor means you're replacing it with a new set, so that's a green light to bash the hell out of it with a nice hammer. Work back and forth on the rotor, don't just keep hitting one side or you'll get the same crooked effect you have now.

Sometimes leaking a bit of PB blast in between the rotor and the axle will assist the hammer in working it free too. Just remember anything greased that PB hits will need to be re-greased (i.e. brake pad glide surfaces).

Brakemotive
06-23-2011, 03:45 PM
Simple solution to this: get it back on flush, make sure the ebrake is released and the trans is in neutral. Then SLOWLY spin and pull gently at the same time. It's all about the spinning action, right now the shoes are getting cocked inside the drum so spinning as you pull will prevent that.

Good luck!

105
06-23-2011, 06:32 PM
I got it off. I threaded the nut onto a different stud, more to the bottom right and that pushed it back on flush and I could hear it release from the jam. I guess initially I must have pulled on that side too much without realizing it and got it jammed. I don't see any problems now that its off other than more rust/dust on the driver side parts. There is also slightly more play in the driver ebrake shoe. Thanks for the help guys!!

Driver Left, Passenger Right
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotor005.jpg

Passenger
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotor008.jpg

Driver
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/105/rotor006.jpg