nicentech

iTrader: (1)

Ls3 427, engine has less than 800 miles since built. Checked oil at 600 miles and went to change at around 800 and it was 2 quarts low! How can a brand new use oil so quick? I will be doing a cyl leakdown tomorrow, what other possibilities are there?

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Umm how about more details, let's start with your build.

Bore sizes?
piston sizes and brands?
what kind of rings are you using?
how is your PcV setup?
who built it?
how did you break it in?
what oil are you using?
What brand crank n size stroke?
What kind of oil pump?
Bearing clearances?

Anyone else?
Did I leave something out lol?

nicentech

iTrader: (1)

First off you don't have to be a dick, bore size and stroke have nothing to do with oil consumption theory... I wasn't asking you to fix my car, just looking for alternatives other than piston rings. The PCV is actually gone, the two valve covers connect to each other and a line tee into a bigger line to the catch can, and the can is vented as well as the oil filter cap

But anyways, I did not build the engine, it was fresh in the car when I bought it, engine short blockwas built in az at basko engines So the recie

But anyways, I did not build the engine, it was fresh in the car when I bought it, engine short blockwas built in az at basko engines So the reciept says... Built in january 2011, eagle crank and rods, diamond Pistons. Stock 823 heads with patriot extreme springs and comp valve train, stock intake... That's the gist of all I know... Any help would be much aprichated as I'm newish the the ls world

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Wow that's what I get!

GL getting answers here!

nicentech

iTrader: (1)

Update: I wasn't trying to be rude or make anyone mad so my apology to anyone that was offended.
So with that said, I have considered both of your suggestions which led to a cyl leak down and a compression test. Results: all cylinders had 10 percent or less cyl leakdown and compression was 190-205 psi on all cylinders.

IDRIVEAG8GT

I've seen alot of different stories on the board about engine builders not setting up ring caps correctly, or even worse lining gaps up when the pistons are installed into the engine, it's tacky, but seems to happen quite often!

IDRIVEAG8GT

Edit: just saw you were looking for alternatives other than rings, my bad. Worn valve guides will do the trick so I've learned recently, and this may sound like a dumb question but, do you have any leaks around the pan? Sometimes the undercarriage of a vehicle can contain oil, without letting it actually drip on the ground. Typically for break in, an engine will burn 1/4 to 1/2 quart for the ring seating period. Otherwise I'd point to something more practical like the dipstick not being seated all the way in the block.

TRY ME

Hate to piggy back on someones post by I am having kinda the same issues...I have a low compression iron block 408 with diamond pistons and compstar rods. My engine has around 4000 miles on it so I believe I over my break in seat period for the rings. Im down 2quarts of oil before this oil change. The car isnt smoking, little junk in my catch can-where is it going? I used 20W50 royal purple for the change.
Here are my questions:
1. what oil should I be using
2. what weight oil should I be using
3. What checks do I need to do to solve this problem

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks

NXZ28

iTrader: (45)

I have had two stroker motors. One burned oil and one didn't. I think it has to do with what pistons you are running and how the motor is bored. The 4" stroker crank pulls the piston too far out of the cylinder sleeve and it causes it to rock to either side. Just slightly though. It allows oil to get past the rings and burned in the combustion chamber. You may not even show any sign of it on the spark plugs. A leak down test may even be in tolerance. Here are somethings I would check:

1. Leak down test
2. Pull plugs and look for oil on the spark plug. Could be valve seals if wet.
3. Inspect crankcase ventilation. A catch can helps but also replace the oil cap with a breather.

20W50 is a heavy oil that I would only run if I was getting low on oil pressure. I always run a 10W-30 and 10W-40 mix.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

You should ask your builder about the weight of oil. Depending on your bearing clearances is how you determine what weight oil to use. When AES built my motor, I was told I should use Valvoline Vr1 20-50 for breakin and usage.

nicentech

iTrader: (1)

I'm running mobile 1 10w40, and have put about 50 miles on the fresh oil change with no oil usage. Going to the track tomorrow night and will recheck after every pass... I think maybe only using oil with extended high rpm... Seems to be typical of the striker motors with a catch can no PCV system... Will be ordering a gz pro vacuum pump in a few weeks hopefully, unless someone wants to buy one for me

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Try another brand, my stock ls1 would go thru that like gas! 2qts an oil change, I switched to Quaker state 10-30 synthetic and a catchcan breather combo and voila no smoking at wot or oil consumption.

Just my .2

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Actually, yes they do.

TRY ME

Thanks guys for the response...I will try what NXZ28 mentioned. Will the things metioned about the pistons being pulled to far hurt the motor?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Yes, absolutely, but it's more common on 4.100" stroke cranks (like a 427ci LS3) and not so much on a regular 408ci with a 4.00" stroke crank...at least not anymore.