Another clutch issue ive spent soo many hours trying to fix please HELP!
06-25-2011, 12:58 AM
#1
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Another clutch issue ive spent soo many hours trying to fix please HELP! Hi everyone yes another clutch problem with the T56, i have a spec 3+ clutch with only 40,000 miles on it and a new ram Slave cylinder, dont really run it hard much, i was coming home from my sons practice as usual running great park the car went to bed next morning woke up to get milk car would not shift into any gear! unless the car is off, but once i try to turn it on the car jumps and stalls?..... i changed out the master cylinder, bled the system a hundred times but nothing? The pedal has normal amount of pressure but nothing then if i start the car in nuetral and try to go into gear it gring the crap outta my gears! its almost like the synchros are gone but i dont see how everything can be daisy one day and all of a sudden hell the next day????? please any info would be awsome thanks!!!!!!
06-25-2011, 12:37 PM
#5
Yup, sounds like your pressure plate is not being moved, not letting your clutch disc free, not disengaging. Bleeding these cars is a real PITA,, if you are sure of your bleed, You have some kind of hydraulic issue, time to start looking at parts, How old is the slave, You say new,,do you mean brand new?
06-25-2011, 12:56 PM
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thanks for the replies guys well the slave does have a lil over 20,000 miles on it.... i guess RAM is probably not the best way to go for that clutch maybe?
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06-25-2011, 10:48 PM
#9
If you don't find any leaks in the cabin, in the engine bay, at the slave connection, nor at the bottom of the bellhousing, try The JMD method of clutch bleeding.
06-25-2011, 11:06 PM
#10
A few guys on here recently posted up threads that they could get into all the gears, but like each gear was neutral. The clutch felt the same, and with the engine running they could push in the clutch pedal, put it into gear easily, but when they let the clutch pedal out, it just acted like it was in neutral. Both guys bled the crap out of it but that didn't work. They both said that a new master cylinder fixed their problems.
You are having the exact opposite happen to you. You cannot get into gear while the car is running, like the slave is not releasing the clutch. Usually you push the clutch pedal in which activates the master cylinder which tells the slave to release the clutch so you can get into gear. If the slave is internally broken you will not be leaking fluid, nor will it be able to function right. So, when you push in your clutch pedal and activate the master cylinder, the master cylinder tells the slave to release the clutch, but because the slave is broken it can't let the clutch free so it's like you always have the clutch pedal out.
Try JMD's method, if it doesn't work you are dropping the tranny. I changed out the slave by myself in a parking lot with no more than a crappy autozone tool kit, some extensions, and a online write up from ls1howto.com.
Here's some highlights from the vid I made back when I did this. Keep in mind this was years ago when I was a complete newbie. I had never done any kind of autowork before this besides an oil change. I started at 8am and got everything buttoned up at about 7pm the same day.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/lear...all_638399.htm
You are having the exact opposite happen to you. You cannot get into gear while the car is running, like the slave is not releasing the clutch. Usually you push the clutch pedal in which activates the master cylinder which tells the slave to release the clutch so you can get into gear. If the slave is internally broken you will not be leaking fluid, nor will it be able to function right. So, when you push in your clutch pedal and activate the master cylinder, the master cylinder tells the slave to release the clutch, but because the slave is broken it can't let the clutch free so it's like you always have the clutch pedal out.
Try JMD's method, if it doesn't work you are dropping the tranny. I changed out the slave by myself in a parking lot with no more than a crappy autozone tool kit, some extensions, and a online write up from ls1howto.com.
Here's some highlights from the vid I made back when I did this. Keep in mind this was years ago when I was a complete newbie. I had never done any kind of autowork before this besides an oil change. I started at 8am and got everything buttoned up at about 7pm the same day.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/lear...all_638399.htm
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 06-25-2011 at 11:13 PM.
12-17-2011, 10:20 PM
#13
If you don't find any leaks in the cabin, in the engine bay, at the slave connection, nor at the bottom of the bellhousing, try The JMD method of clutch bleeding.
12-17-2011, 10:40 PM
#14
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did you change the slave out? There really isnt much to the hydraulic system on these, a slave and a master. So if your slave is not releasing the clutch, it wont go into gear while its running.
does it grind at all once you are driving? Downshifting? I used to have to double clutch it while downshifting to get it into gear, since I put a new slave and master, its been 20, 000 miles, didnt do it once.
does it grind at all once you are driving? Downshifting? I used to have to double clutch it while downshifting to get it into gear, since I put a new slave and master, its been 20, 000 miles, didnt do it once.
12-20-2011, 08:59 AM
#15
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The last time the OP posted in this thread was almost 6 months ago. I wonder if he ever got his problem sorted out?
I'm having a very, very similar problem. Here is a link to my current thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ydraulics.html
I'm having a very, very similar problem. Here is a link to my current thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ydraulics.html
