Poly MM's = Maybe I'll just buy a Civic.
06-25-2011, 12:34 PM
#1
Poly MM's = Maybe I'll just buy a Civic. Seriously, hardest thing I've ever done.. Well not really the hardest, but you run into a lot of little small crap that takes 45 minutes to get around and before you know it you've been workin on the car for 8 hours. But on the plus side, my y-pipe does not bang anymore!
One question I have...when we did mine the driver's side went it smoothly.. It took a while, but it all lined up and bolted down fine. Now, the passenger side came out fine. But when we went to put it back in, the bolts that go into the metal piece that holds the clam shell (for lack of what its actually called..?) and bolts to the car would not go in. We ended up moving that piece out of the way and just seeing if we could get a bolt started in the holes and found out that one of the holes was misaligned completely.. Meaning, there's a small nut inside the "hole" that the bolt threads into. Well, in one of the 4 holes, that nut was off center so bad that the bolt would not even thread into it. however, when I took them out to begin with, all 4 bolts were in there. So, HOW CAN THAT HAPPEN? We ended up getting the other 3 bolts started finally and bolted them down. I figure 3 is just as good as 4, and I was ready to trade the car for a Ricer at that point anyway.
One question I have...when we did mine the driver's side went it smoothly.. It took a while, but it all lined up and bolted down fine. Now, the passenger side came out fine. But when we went to put it back in, the bolts that go into the metal piece that holds the clam shell (for lack of what its actually called..?) and bolts to the car would not go in. We ended up moving that piece out of the way and just seeing if we could get a bolt started in the holes and found out that one of the holes was misaligned completely.. Meaning, there's a small nut inside the "hole" that the bolt threads into. Well, in one of the 4 holes, that nut was off center so bad that the bolt would not even thread into it. however, when I took them out to begin with, all 4 bolts were in there. So, HOW CAN THAT HAPPEN? We ended up getting the other 3 bolts started finally and bolted them down. I figure 3 is just as good as 4, and I was ready to trade the car for a Ricer at that point anyway.
06-25-2011, 01:48 PM
#3
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Mine were a simple install with no problems but I learned from previous experience to leave everything loose to get all the bolts started. Also I guess it helped that I installed my Poly's just after I removed the stock manifolds but before I dropped in the headers. Lots of space to work that way.
06-25-2011, 01:53 PM
#5
Mine were a simple install with no problems but I learned from previous experience to leave everything loose to get all the bolts started. Also I guess it helped that I installed my Poly's just after I removed the stock manifolds but before I dropped in the headers. Lots of space to work that way.
06-25-2011, 03:09 PM
#6
yeh it was a pain with the headers and everything on. but my main question or concern is that the bolt wouldn't screw back into the hole. I mean, take the motor mount and other part that bolts to the car completely out of the picture and just try putting the bolt in the hole, it wouldn't go! I don't understand it. but It doesnt really matter, I got em in and they work great, just thought I would rant to you guys lol.
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06-25-2011, 06:14 PM
#8
yeh we basically ended up cross-threading two of the three bolts we got in on the passenger side. But 3 of the 4 went down snug so I'm not too concerned with it. Also replaced my tranny mount with poly. You can feel some extra vibration in the car, but it isnt unbareable and its WAY better than a banging y-pipe. Trans mount was as easy as changing an air filter.
06-25-2011, 06:46 PM
#10
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Tranny mounts are always easy I did my buddys at the same time I did the 1-2shift servo seals and stuff. I need to do the motor mounts on mine Im dreading it just gonna wait till I do headers!
06-25-2011, 08:42 PM
#11
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Wait till you do headers for sure... Mine took about two hours when I was putting on my headers... Got the manifolds out and then undid the mm etc... Hardest part for me was having to use a box wrenh for one of the pedestal bolts... Get a ratchet wrench!!! Other than that just get the bolts started and then align everything then tighten... Too easy!!!
06-25-2011, 09:05 PM
#12
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I just got my car running again after poly/trans mounts and arh headers/y. I got the frost bench tune also. I had alot of trouble getting the holes lined up on the stands on the block side. Couldn't get one damn bolt in on the drivers side and finally bought a different bolt with a better lead angle. soc hd cap scr.
Had the same trouble with the pass side but finally got them all in. It was the hardest thing about the job. Didn't have much trouble with the bottom. I did them myself and was raising, lowering and wiggling these bitches for what seemed like hours. I'm glad I did it. Probably easier the second time around with no learning curve. I thought the pain was over until trying to get the oil tube back in after the headers. I destroyed the stock one and had to order another. The arh headers should come with a special bent oil tube to fit. Their design has a very small window to fit through and requires modification to the tube which is easy to screw up. It likes to raise hell with starter. I also had to fabricate a bracket to bolt it back together at the top because there was no way that sucker was gonna make it. it was 2 inches away at least. Happy with setup now that its all done. Runs great right from the first keyturn. No funky Idle or anything funny. This sucker needs a cam now and then a real tune.
arh 1 3/4 w ory and slp 2otl. stage 8 bolts, new ngk tr55, air gone, rear o2 gone. Headers and y fit like a glove.
Had the same trouble with the pass side but finally got them all in. It was the hardest thing about the job. Didn't have much trouble with the bottom. I did them myself and was raising, lowering and wiggling these bitches for what seemed like hours. I'm glad I did it. Probably easier the second time around with no learning curve. I thought the pain was over until trying to get the oil tube back in after the headers. I destroyed the stock one and had to order another. The arh headers should come with a special bent oil tube to fit. Their design has a very small window to fit through and requires modification to the tube which is easy to screw up. It likes to raise hell with starter. I also had to fabricate a bracket to bolt it back together at the top because there was no way that sucker was gonna make it. it was 2 inches away at least. Happy with setup now that its all done. Runs great right from the first keyturn. No funky Idle or anything funny. This sucker needs a cam now and then a real tune.
arh 1 3/4 w ory and slp 2otl. stage 8 bolts, new ngk tr55, air gone, rear o2 gone. Headers and y fit like a glove.
06-26-2011, 12:36 PM
#14
only thing we had to move was the alternator and ac compressor just to get the long bolts out. Headers, starter, etc all stayed in place. But it sure was a b*tch with all that stuff in. Def be easier with headers removed. And no the trans mount doesnt affect the y pipe but the MM and Trans mount came together as a package so I figured why not.
06-26-2011, 06:02 PM
#15
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not from experience but ive heard that if you do both mm and transmission mounts poly then you will get some banging. have heard its best to just do the poly mm and leave the transmission mount stock.
06-26-2011, 06:40 PM
#16
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How could having a stiffer transmission mount cause the Y-pipe to move around more? Sounds like BS to me.
I did mine when I put in the headers, old mounts were still cherry
Took wayyy too much time, but I was by myself when I did them. Engine stays pretty solid now though, and shifting is smooth as butter.
I did mine when I put in the headers, old mounts were still cherry
Took wayyy too much time, but I was by myself when I did them. Engine stays pretty solid now though, and shifting is smooth as butter.
06-27-2011, 12:14 PM
#18
i did poly MM's last august and it honestly wasnt all that bad. I did read every write up out there and bough an 8mm and 10mm ratchet wrench though which probably helped a lot.
I don't even notice a difference over stock with the poly MM's as far as vibrations are concerned
I don't even notice a difference over stock with the poly MM's as far as vibrations are concerned
06-27-2011, 01:07 PM
#20
i did poly MM's last august and it honestly wasnt all that bad. I did read every write up out there and bough an 8mm and 10mm ratchet wrench though which probably helped a lot.
I don't even notice a difference over stock with the poly MM's as far as vibrations are concerned
I don't even notice a difference over stock with the poly MM's as far as vibrations are concerned
