I need some help!
#1
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I need some help!
I'm looking to purchase an 07 CTS-V. The only issue with the car is that it grinds going into 6th gear and sometimes slips out. I'm pretty sure its a synchro issue and needs rebuilt. Should i be concerned about any other damage done to the transmission? Will any T-56 fit into a cts-v? I noticed different rebuild kits one for fbody cars and the other for vett,gto, and the cts-v. I am either looking to rebuild or purchase a built tranny.. If anyone can help or send me in the right direction it would greatly be appreciated!! Thanks!!
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It should still be covered under the warranty. Mine was doing the same thing, took it to the dealership they replaced the syncro's, 1st, 2nd, 6th, and reverse all under warranty. Get the vin and ask a dealership about the warranty as long as it is under 100k miles.
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The car currently is at 60k so that will be the first thing I do!! Thanks...But still curious is this trans different from the fbody? Just in case I do go a higher performance route.
#6
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He's possibly going to get an '07, so unless he's going crazy with it, don't see any reason to run out and buy a 9" rear; not sure it was mentioned here specifically, but just saying to somebody new to the game...Although OP did mention built transmission (personally don't think that's needed), so guess 9" may be something to put on a wish list if you end up going crazy...
As for the transmissions, while the T-56 is a modular transmission (bellhousing, main assembly, tail shaft), there are some internal differences between some of them, including gear ratios and upgraded input shaft, synchros (iirc), etc. Also, something from an LT1 would not bolt up to something with an LS1, for instance...
I want to say the V's T-56 is more related to the Z06 (center) and the GTO, than the F-bodies and Vipers, Mustang Cobras, etc...You may or may not get them to work with the proper bellhousing/tailshaft sections, but IMO be better just to hunt for the right one. However, best bet is to a) start with the simple stuff first; like fluid or transmission mount (replace engine mounts at same time to do it right), etc. and b) rebuild what you have, say it were the synchros...Thought I read somewhere here that driving the 6th at low rpms a lot can affect the synchros on these, but I am only passing it on, rather than have any experience with that issue. I mention this because it could be the only thing wrong with the car, but it could also mean the car was abused (maybe unlikely, but just a reason to give it a serious once over)...I have had no issues with my transmission and have 62k miles now, but not to say I won't (sure hope not though)...Point is, could just be a bad batch, or dependent on driver behavior or an inherit design flaw on the V's trans...don't know...Do know these are really good, stout transmissions though if taken care of...
I have a T-56 from an LT1 that I plan(ed) to put in the Chevelle, but on a side note, if you wanted to put one in something older (like a pre-86 SBC), you need an adapter bellhousing, slave (older clutch pedals were mechanical linkage for instance) and an electronic speedo (older cars used cable); gets $$$, but sure would be fun...Mention that because anything can be done, but it's a matter of what is available to put 'x' T-56 into whatever engine setup you want...
Oh yeah, one other thing to be aware of between T-56's is IIRC, the tailshaft/bellhousings differ in sizes, so that could affect the driveshaft, as well as the output splines differ, so you may not be able to use your pinion u-joint fitting, so to speak...
As for the transmissions, while the T-56 is a modular transmission (bellhousing, main assembly, tail shaft), there are some internal differences between some of them, including gear ratios and upgraded input shaft, synchros (iirc), etc. Also, something from an LT1 would not bolt up to something with an LS1, for instance...
I want to say the V's T-56 is more related to the Z06 (center) and the GTO, than the F-bodies and Vipers, Mustang Cobras, etc...You may or may not get them to work with the proper bellhousing/tailshaft sections, but IMO be better just to hunt for the right one. However, best bet is to a) start with the simple stuff first; like fluid or transmission mount (replace engine mounts at same time to do it right), etc. and b) rebuild what you have, say it were the synchros...Thought I read somewhere here that driving the 6th at low rpms a lot can affect the synchros on these, but I am only passing it on, rather than have any experience with that issue. I mention this because it could be the only thing wrong with the car, but it could also mean the car was abused (maybe unlikely, but just a reason to give it a serious once over)...I have had no issues with my transmission and have 62k miles now, but not to say I won't (sure hope not though)...Point is, could just be a bad batch, or dependent on driver behavior or an inherit design flaw on the V's trans...don't know...Do know these are really good, stout transmissions though if taken care of...
I have a T-56 from an LT1 that I plan(ed) to put in the Chevelle, but on a side note, if you wanted to put one in something older (like a pre-86 SBC), you need an adapter bellhousing, slave (older clutch pedals were mechanical linkage for instance) and an electronic speedo (older cars used cable); gets $$$, but sure would be fun...Mention that because anything can be done, but it's a matter of what is available to put 'x' T-56 into whatever engine setup you want...
Oh yeah, one other thing to be aware of between T-56's is IIRC, the tailshaft/bellhousings differ in sizes, so that could affect the driveshaft, as well as the output splines differ, so you may not be able to use your pinion u-joint fitting, so to speak...
Last edited by JNR_Design; 06-26-2011 at 03:31 PM.
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#9
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I'd (for my '07) focus on suspension first and/or ways to limit/eliminate wheelhop and of course upgrade the bushing, etc. (did that already and WOW what a difference from a broken one...Car now spins the wheels when shifting hard into second, rather than just a chirp of feeling like the power is lost. Also, keep on top of the fluid and use the right LSD additive and amount...
However, I know if I were to get a supercharger and started trying to launch it, then the stock diff would more than likely start showing its weaknesses! I don't think I'll ever need to worry about that in my situation though, as I am highly doubtful I'll do anything to this car (for the $ investment and so many other things I'd rather put that to use). If I had a dream list, the diff would be one of them, I think.
To me, gearing would be the least of my concerns, if I were trying to put a different T-56 in and the 0.50 6th (f-body) may be nice for the highway. But, forgot the other gear ratios and want to say we have a better spread...I do know our trans our stronger than the F-body though and also want to say the Viper has perhaps the strongest OEM
#10
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So I called the dealer and the powertrain warranty was up at 50k ..The car is currently at 57k...So Im SOL on a dealer fix.... Bang for the buck would it be cheaper to purchase a new/used transmission or would a rebuild be the wiser route to take? Im limited to roughly $1-2k im trying to some what keep the cost down unless i have the opportunity to buy a nice trans. So if anyone has one for sale or was some inputs let me know ..Thanks!!!
#11
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So I called the dealer and the powertrain warranty was up at 50k ..The car is currently at 57k...So Im SOL on a dealer fix.... Bang for the buck would it be cheaper to purchase a new/used transmission or would a rebuild be the wiser route to take? Im limited to roughly $1-2k im trying to some what keep the cost down unless i have the opportunity to buy a nice trans. So if anyone has one for sale or was some inputs let me know ..Thanks!!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...smissions.html
Last edited by Darkman; 06-27-2011 at 08:17 AM.
#12
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So I called the dealer and the powertrain warranty was up at 50k ..The car is currently at 57k...So Im SOL on a dealer fix.... Bang for the buck would it be cheaper to purchase a new/used transmission or would a rebuild be the wiser route to take? Im limited to roughly $1-2k im trying to some what keep the cost down unless i have the opportunity to buy a nice trans. So if anyone has one for sale or was some inputs let me know ..Thanks!!!
#13
I don't think the dealer is correct with that warrenty. Someone correct me if I am wrong but all 07's have a 5 year 100k warranty on the drivetrain and a 4 year 50k bumper to bumper. I know my cars warranty is running out in 1 week on my drivetrain and I think it was bought right when the 07s would have come out. Good luck and make sure you find a good dealer.