Convertible Vehicles - Must do Mods, on a vert

Guys,
I am relatively new to the site, and am curious to know if there are some must do mods on the 1998 z28 vert. I am about to pull the trigger on headers/Catted Y pipe, and a cat back exhaust, however i wanted to make sure that there wasnt something else i should be modding prior to for these Verts! Should i pull the trigger on some subframe connectors or something to stiffen up the chasis?

shocks before anything ! Koni 4/4 if you can , and you can still get the subframe connectors and sway bars if you want to afterwards .. but shocks will make the best foundation .

If you do decide to lower your car, don't forget the Lower Control Arms, LCA Relocation Brackets, and Adjustable Panhard Bar. SFC are good too but i'd hold off as UMI Performance has stated a new 3 point design is in the works.

There are many things you can do to your 'vert to make it stand out from the next guys, but it does get expensive, especially if you do it right. I was young when I took possession of my first F-Body (which I still own). I cut corners to achieve what I wanted and it showed big time. It didn't really impress anyone so with my convertible, I have decided to not half ass it and do it the right way the first time. It might take longer to get what you want, but the pride alone will be worth it. The compliments at shows/track/street are just extra!

By the way, what headers/Y-pipe/catback do you plan to run?

I actually bought the car from my uncle. I remember the day he bought it, he came over and picked me up to give me a ride. After i got done, i told him that i would own it someday. He just sold it to me last summer. Its a black 1998 Z 28 Convert. with 10,400 miles on it. Its never seen a winter, and really its never seen rain. I dont intend on ever getting rid of the car.The car literally looks as it did the day it was driven off of the lot. My only mod was a lid. With that said, i too have the same feeling as you. I dont want to cut corners, as i feel this car is quite a car, especially with the low miles. So i really dont care how much i have to wait, i want nothing but the best. As for my Headers/Y combo. I am leaning towards 1-7/8" American Racing Headers with a Catted Y pipe combo. I am really struggling with the fact of getting racing headers or going with the EGR/AIR on the car and getting the emissions style headers. As for a cat back, i am not sure. I dont want to get a cat back exhaust that is screaming loud (LOUDMOUTH). I want it to sound good at idle and crusing, and i want it to bark when i get on it. I really like the look of the CME however i do not know how this sounds? Is this a true cat back system or only the tips, and you just modify your catback with there tips???

Do you have any suggestions on catback or going with the race style headers vs. the emissions headers. I should note that my state will not check, so i dont need the AIR/EGR, i am just reluctant to modify the car that much. If you do decide to lower your car, don't forget the Lower Control Arms, LCA Relocation Brackets, and Adjustable Panhard Bar. SFC are good too but i'd hold off as UMI Performance has stated a new 3 point design is in the works.

There are many things you can do to your 'vert to make it stand out from the next guys, but it does get expensive, especially if you do it right. I was young when I took possession of my first F-Body (which I still own). I cut corners to achieve what I wanted and it showed big time. It didn't really impress anyone so with my convertible, I have decided to not half ass it and do it the right way the first time. It might take longer to get what you want, but the pride alone will be worth it. The compliments at shows/track/street are just extra!

By the way, what headers/Y-pipe/catback do you plan to run?

I currently have stock manifolds, with the exception of EGR delete. I plan on doing the AIR pump delete when I purchase headers. I think you'll want to do the same as it will clean up the engine bay a great deal and you can always tune out the EGR and AIR to get rid of any codes it might throw. I'm sure you will upgrade to an LS6 intake or better at some point so getting rid of the EGR will be good for that.

I'm still young (22), and I plan on purchasing the same header/Y-pipe combo as you, but probably later down the road when I can afford it. I have the GMMG catback and I absolutely LOVE it. It was a tad pricey compared to other systems, but well worth the price in my opinion. It's not loud at all (with stock manifolds), and does have a nice tone at idle and makes its presence known at wide open throttle. It definitely makes me smile every time I start it up. And speaking of the CME, I plan on doing that myself this weekend, just waiting on the tips which should arrive this Friday :) .

To answer your question, you can do the Center Mount Exhaust with any exhaust system you want, which is pretty awesome. All you need are the tips, and two 90* bends to add to the catback you have and the valance, and it will work. I bought an OEM valance from a member on another forum back in March, and I'm buying reproduction tips from 6 Liter Eater. Not sure if you've heard of him or his products but if you do a quick search, you should find him pretty easy. The CME mod in itself will not change the exhaust note.

If you consider the GMMG catback, which I highly recommend, I'll let you in on some info. Some people claim that it can be quite raspy and have a drone when at highway speed. This is true, and false. If you have an all stock exhaust with this catback, there will be no rasp or drone. If you have headers and no cats, you will have both. If you go your route (headers/catted Y), it will be louder then stock, but won't have much or a rasp or drone, if any. Again, make sure you do your own research as the exhaust is really the voice of the car.

Ouch! All this mod talk makes my brain hurt. OP, you need to read the "What's it Worth' section to see what is happening with trying to sell modded cars. In short, they don't sell for decent money. With those crazy ultra low miles you have, can't you enjoy your uncle's wonderful ride 'stock'?? The car will be worth so much more if you ever need to sell. I know you plan on keeping it but reality will dictate otherwise as times passes. There are only a handful in existence with those miles other than the anniversary editions. I know you will be piling the miles on but think about it!

Trust me, i think about it everyday! This is why i want to go with EGR/AIR headers. That way if i every wanted to bring it back to stock, i could. I want to mod the car, but i also want to be able to return it to its original state.


Ouch! All this mod talk makes my brain hurt. OP, you need to read the "What's it Worth' section to see what is happening with trying to sell modded cars. In short, they don't sell for decent money. With those crazy ultra low miles you have, can't you enjoy your uncle's wonderful ride 'stock'?? The car will be worth so much more if you ever need to sell. I know you plan on keeping it but reality will dictate otherwise as times passes. There are only a handful in existence with those miles other than the anniversary editions. I know you will be piling the miles on but think about it!

Doing mods can sound scary and uneasy, but you can do the minor bolt-ons without much issue. I've kept everything I've ever taken off my LT1 and LS1, from stock catbacks to intakes to spoilers to suspension parts and interior panels. I've kept my EGR off my car, stock control arms, lid, and plan to keep the AIR pump and manifolds when I take that off as well. If you're just going to do the basic bolt-ons for now, it's all reversible.

I bought my SS bone stock from a young guy who bought it as an investment. Only put 5k miles on it in 3 years. It has about 75k miles on it but the car looks brand new, and that's not an exaggeration. At first, I said I'd never do anything to it and I'd only mod my LT1 and use that as my fun car. But after a few months, I got the itch. I didn't want to be like every other black convertible out there. I wanted to be different and I wanted to make my car my own. I wanted it to stand out. With the little things I've done so far, it's all reversible; but I also "plan" to keep this car for a very long time.

Used car values go up and down all the time, but these cars aren't going to be worth $40k+ at an auction anytime soon. I am not talking down to you (NC01TA) and I see exactly where you are coming from, but with bolt ons, these cars are easy to mod, and easy to go back to stock. Why not stand out for now and enjoy "your" car? :D

How's this. Forget the headers and go with 3.73 gears and a converter. No one will know you have them, car will look stock and you will pick up more than headers and a y pipe. Add a cat back and you're all set. My vert ran 12.80's at 108 with these and a handheld tune. Keep your eyes open for a set of SLP 3 point subframe connectors. They're discontinued, but there are some sets out there. Fit nice and really stiffen the car up.

IMO set an over all goal for what you want to do with you car and stick to it.

When i first got my vert, the handling was so horrible that i decided to beef up my suspension before anything else. So i purchased BMR STB and BMR SFC, along with bilstein shocks and strano springs. I also have UMI roto/poly adj PHB that i still need to install. Well, after those mods, the car handles really well, and i have much more confidence driving it. :)

If your an auto. the torque converter is one of the best bangs for the buck.

I never understood the mentality of "don't modify your car" -- do what improves the car for your needs, keep the stock parts if you really care.

SFRs are a must on convertibles, you will notice their effect more if you do them before your shocks. I am not sure the 3-points provide that much more value over the 2-point, given the thin sheet metal where the 3rd-points connect. Koni SAs would be a good choice, but will mask some of the SFR effects. STB is also noticeable for cornering and U-Turns, and 35/22 hollow sways are also worthwhile if you like flatter cornering.

Yea? What units are recommended and why?

If your an auto. the torque converter is one of the best bangs for the buck.

I only have a 2800 converter, probably should have gone 3400-3600 but i'll live with what I have. If you're not going with a cam, don't go much past 3000 for a converter. With the lockup in the converter, you don't lose any MPG on the highway. Gears help too, depending on what you have now. If you have 3.23's you're good, if you have the 2.74's, change them. 3.73's are a nice gear.

Must do - drive with the top down whenever possible!

its a 6 speed and not an automatic.

I would do SFC's. I've owned 9 F-bodys and finally put them on my '02, wow what a difference in the ride and handling. Having said that I would suggest driving the car around for a while maybe a few months or a year and then decide how to proceed. I like doing that because it lets me get to know the car better. I'm choosing to keep mine stock for now mainly to keep it queit.

Must do - drive with the top down whenever possible!

This is the most important thing to do.

IMO The first thing I done to my vert at 1000 miles was a set of Lower control arms. It fixed the wheelhop problem. I then went with a set of lon tubes, catback and a convertor. My stall is an Edge 3600. With some tuning and a lid my car went 12.3s and some 1.6ish 60fts on a set of drag radials.