nicentech

iTrader: (1)

I took the car to the track last night and made my best pass to date. 11.22@ 119, however on the last pass of the night when I shifted to neutral after going through the traps I heard a whine noise, so I imediatley shut the car down and coasted around the return road. After a visual inspection with no problems seen I refired the car
and noise is still there. The best I can describe it, sounds like a supercharger whine but from the transmission right by your right knee if your in the drivers seat. It makes the noise in neutral as well as first, second, and third. Noise get louder with rpm and it's a rather high pitch. The noise doesn't change in any gear or neutral, only rpm related. Here's the trans specs
Th400
Bet trans brake
Hd low reverse sprag
34 Element intermediate sprag
Raybestos clutches (6,6,3)
Heat treated center support
Hardened and welded input shaft and drum
Torington bearing conversion
Art Carr 4k converter
Jw ultra bell housing

I didn't build this transmission, it was in the car when I purchased the car. The fluid is clean red and not over full or low. Sorry about the long post just thought I'd explain thoroughly before asking for help. Any ideas?

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

You cannot shift to neutral at high speed. You are lucky it didn't come completely apart, through the floorboard, and into your right knee or worse.
Pull it out, take it to a knowledgeable performance rebuilder and have them replace the direct drum and anything else that was hurt.
I wouldn't drive it at all.

There is no reason to shift to neutral after a run, just let the engine coast down. There are specific valve bodies and drums to allow this for cars that require it (aluminum rods, extreme RPM applications) but the average sportsman racer doesn't need to shift to neutral, and going through 2nd, 1st, and into neutral is risky as is. What happens if you accidentally hit reverse?

BrianC98Z28

iTrader: (11)

I have never understood why some do this....

nicentech

iTrader: (1)

I shifted into neutral to shut the engine off for a plug read as that's what all the nitrous guys said the plug read would be inaccurate if you let the engine putt around after making a run. When I go
through the beams I always just shifted to neutral to let
the engine rpm's come
down, and the rpm's don't rise on the car when I downshift at any speed... And there's a lock out on reverse to prevent that. Can someone tell me why this is bad and why? I'm just trying to learn

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

The issue here is just because you put the trans into neutral and the forward clutch is no longer applied, the internal rpms multiply as the components free wheel. This is a very bad thing to do. Call Coan, ATI, Rossler, or any builder that knows what he is doing and they will all advise you just as Jake just did. I think your issue might be pump related. In some cases the inner gear in the pump is machining itself through the crescent. In other cases the pump might be starving itself for oil. A plugged filter, a paper filter or a low oil condition will all cause this as well. Just so you know your trans should be using a screen style filter. Vince

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

Shut the car off in gear. There is absolutely no reason you can't do it like this. If this is a rmvb, I don't think you should be Down shifting it at any rpm, I've heard this from a few people. May be wrong but the consenquences aretha worth finding out.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

if you want to check the plugs just kill it in 3rd at wot, coast down and then pull the plugs, dont throw it into nuetral. i believe rossler told me that the internals will be going 7x faster than the rpm of the motor. be happy it didnt blow the case apart and send it into the passenger compartment. good luck with the rebuild.

nicentech

iTrader: (1)

Haha, fair enough really didn't think of it that way...but makes sense! Thaks for the help. Obviously the trans is coming out, from my build list anyone see anything that needs upgrading? I want this bit€% indestructible what other parts do I need to replace other than what is damaged? And thanks again men!

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

Killing the engine still kills the pump, same effect as neutralling the trans.
Leave it in gear and coast down.
You can still get a plug read.