Generation III External Engine LS1 | LS6 | Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust | Ignition | Accessories
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Wiring gurus - In here!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-05-2011, 12:27 AM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
XtremeDime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anchorage, ALASKA
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Wiring gurus - In here!

Ive been working on my car since October and I finally got to the point where I can start it and no joy. Ive done a ton of electrical over the winter, including:
Relocated wiring under the hood(required cutting and extending 40 or so wires off the main harness)
Relocated battery to the rear

Battery is connected to a kill switch with 0 gauge, as well as the alternator. I have the starter and fuse boxes going 2 gauge each to an 0 gauge back to the kill switch. Battery ground is an 0 gauge as well as the engine ground.

Heres whats going on, interior lights, headlights, wiper, PW, PL, gauges, and fog lights are all working fine. When I go to put the car in the RUN position, the fuel pumps dont prime, and when I tried to start it the starter solenoid isnt engaging at all. I troubleshot the fuel pumps by hook the trigger wire directly to the battery and they primed fine so the issue lies with the trigger wire elsewhere. The most troubling part is that when I hook my HP Tuners up it cant locate the computer. Its almost acting like there is a blown ignition fuse. Looking in the fuse boxes theres several options I can trace:
ABS IGN(no fuse in here, I got rid of the ABS over the winter)
ENG CNTRL(No idea what this is but theres a fuse and its wired in still)
PCM IGN(I feel this is a likely candidate for being the main issue)
IGN(Looks like a large relay?)
ABS BAT SOL(?, no fuse)
TCS BAT(?)
PCM BAT(Fused and wired)
ABS BAT 1 and 2(?)

No blown fuses anywhere, all of the ABS and TCS ones are not in use any longer and I have pulled the fuses. I feel this has to be an ignition/PCM related issue as electrical is working on the majority of things, just not the ones that I need to start the car I truly feel it is not the wire relocation because I labeled both ends of the wires prior to cutting them and verify before reconnecting them.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I suppose I should pick up a mulitmeter and learn to use it LOL
Old 07-05-2011, 04:10 PM
  #2  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
XtremeDime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anchorage, ALASKA
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Going to pick up a multimeter and check continuity on my grounds, Ill also check for voltage to the PCM, etc.
Old 07-05-2011, 08:00 PM
  #3  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
LS1MCSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dover, Arkansas
Posts: 3,831
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

You're starting n the right place. A meter is your best friend anytime you start doing large scale wiring changes. Check to make sure you have power going to the pcm in the correct places(battery & ignition power). If you ned the power schematics, they are here,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...chematics.html
Old 07-06-2011, 04:46 PM
  #4  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
XtremeDime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anchorage, ALASKA
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I narrowed it down the PCM IGN fuse, everything else is getting power just fine. I jumped the wire with a known good wire and my fuel pumps immediately primed, huzzah! I traced the wire up past the fuse box, to where I made my extensions, still no power. Looks like the wire leads into the cabin. Does anyone know if there is a relay or something under the dash which provides power/ground? Unfortunately the diagrams in your link dont show from the fuse box back to the cabin.

BTW, Im kicking myself for not owning a multimeter before, this is like the best $25 Ive ever spent on a tool.

Last edited by XtremeDime; 07-06-2011 at 04:51 PM.
Old 07-07-2011, 10:48 AM
  #5  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
XtremeDime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anchorage, ALASKA
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Traced the wire up to the point that I would have to take the dash apart to go any further. I think Im just going to splice into the existing ignition wire, I think its 10 or 12 gauge, so it should be able to take the amperage. I cant think of anything else to do short of running a wire back to the battery with a relay on it.

I was thinking it was a ground issue with the PCM but I remember when I jumped the PCM ignition wire from another power source and it came to life. If there was a bad ground it wouldnt have completed the circuit right?
Old 07-07-2011, 04:35 PM
  #6  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
LS1MCSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dover, Arkansas
Posts: 3,831
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by XtremeDime
If there was a bad ground it wouldnt have completed the circuit right?
Correct
Old 07-18-2011, 03:19 PM
  #7  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (49)
 
trans2000am's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: detroit
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

did u figure out what is happening?

Im having the same issue power to alot of stuff on the car but when i put it into the on position nothing? i did the same thing as you with the harness but i didnt cut anything, battery is mounted in the back also, I also have a th400 in the car so i had to do the nuetral safety thing also, on accident i wired the brown wire into the green and the car wanted to fire up when i put it into the ON POSITION? wired it correctly green and purple and now no power when put into on position




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:50 AM.