Canadian Members - STS LS2 Build on 1998 Z28 Camaro

This has been a long time coming. I started off purchasing a 1998 Chev Camaro Z28 that was purchased from an auction out of Tampa Bay, Florida. It was imported to SK, where the inspection wasn't done properly.

I faced a 2 year battle sorting out many gremlins with this car, but ultimately got the "mod bug" from a group of local enthusiasts.

My car was purchased with 58,000 miles on the original LS1 motor, it had a 3 inch suspension drop, ADR wheels (with no center caps), hollowed out catalytic converters and steel threads coming thru the rear rubber.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Work%20in%20progress/ez28color11.jpg

I installed stock springs back on the ride as well as a KYB suspension...before i knew anything about modifying cars.

Anyways, i did the whole Heads/Cam/Intake setup and dyno'd 413hp at the wheels with a 12 bolt Moser rear end..putting my ride at just shy of 480 crank hp.

I decided i wanted something different and thought i would go the Forced Induction route...and after 2 years of looking decided on the STS setup.

After having a local company install the STS system...i had 6 separate drives (none of them good ones), as they were all problematic...finally ending up with cylinder #7 saying BAH-BYE!

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_3843.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_3842.jpg

I think i've broken and bent every stock piece on this demon spawn of a car.

I swapped out the ADR wheels for some Z06 replica's which will be replaced down the road when money is more plentiful.

When my LS1 was botched after a 12 psi run on the stock internals, i decided to have a motor built by Canadian Performance out of Toronto, who built me a 402ci LS2 motor with AFR heads and a proper turbo cam.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/DSCF1105.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/DSCF1111.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/DSCF1104.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/K1Rod.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Camaro%20Engine%20Rebuild/WisecoPiston.jpg

I decided on this rebuild that the STS Oil return line not be fed through the Oil Fill Cap (as mine was not sealing)...and with the oil pan off, i had a local company tap the oil pan on the passenger side (adjacent to the engine mount on the k member)

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_2259.jpg

Here's a pic of the 402ci LS2 mated to my rebuilt tranny, scattershield and Hurst shifter:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_2327.jpg

A pic of the stock exhaust components i have yet to install:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_2288.jpg

And not in order, but a pic (temp) of the oil return line connected to the new bung installed on the oil pan, coming through the motor mount area of the passenger side k member area

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_2530.jpg

I still have yet to sort these things out:

1. a few electrical connections from the stock setup and then sort out the remainder of the STS wiring stuff (oil alarms, etc)
2. buying some bolts to connect up the intermediate exhaust pipes that connect to the manifolds and then to the y-pipe
3. replacing the turbo housing with the bigger housing (.96 vs .81 AR)
4. installing the transmission shifting unit
5. installing the rear brakes and pads
6. bleeding the brakes
7. installing the battery and all of the wonderful connections there (the fuse box included)
8. driveshaft install
9. steering arm/knucke
10. radiator coolant hoses and the serpentine belt
11. all the STS turbo piping underneath the vehicle
12. removing the old manual boost controller and installing the electronic one i now have
13. installing the wide band (i'll have to get Midas to weld in a bung once the car is running)
14. install the O2 sensors
15. sort out the rear coolant to front coolant line connections (this will take some fabrication)
16. and the PCV system

Looks good.

GL with the rest of your build.

Thanks. I've done the head/cam/intake/long tube headers and it was fun...and noisy.

I have always wanted a turbocharged ride...and with the options out there, this one seemed like a good option. It's unfortunately not as straight forward as the manufacturer suggests this setup to be, but perhaps all the forced induction and nitrous setups have their "bugs" that have to be worked out.

I'm sure once it's done it will be good.

My old HCI setup dynoed 413hp at the wheels and helped me to run 12.5 at 116mph...i'm sure a more competent drag racer could've knocked a few tenths off that time, but i typicallhy only ran my car down the strip 4-8 times per year for 3 years...and now it's been broken for the last 3 years.

I'm following ZL1Killa's thread and am interested to know what his would do down the strip when everything is sorted out.

My goal with this is around 620-660hp at the wheels....so we'll see how close i get.

Looking forward to seeing the finished outcome! Hopefully I finish my H/C/I build this year and maybe get mine to Saskatoon to meet up with the crew!

Mine is going to be running first!:razz:

I hope your car is running first. I have to get my house renovations done first, but am trying to fit in a few hours every month doing little things.

This is probably going to be a more diverse forum for you and the type of car you're building.

It might be running today actually its that close now. You can look in my other 427 thread on here in forced induction ,you should post your build in that section too.

Yes this board is great. No personal stuff at all on this board and moderators don't allow it the way it should be. And great information as well. You should realize FASTRNU that most of the stuff I say on the local little board is simply to get the young bucks going ..and it sure works ! LOL

Who knows the car runs good may still have time to dyno,tune and run it at SIR or Swift this year but only 30 days left before leave and no promises. But hey they have 1/8 mile 40km out of Kelowna and Mission 1/4 mile one of best tracks in Canada is only 4 hours drive.

Best of luck on your build. Should go great once you are done. Taking the extra time is a good thing to make sure you improve on the original kits. Aps and sts are both good with some tweaking here and there.

For sure..my only goal for My STS build is to see the car start and move to my next house by Oct/Nov.

I'll do the tuning and tinkering next year in between doing the landscaping of our new house.

I'm not too sure how large the Fbody community is in Kelowna...i haven't seen much in my visits out there (i have family in Kelowna and the Okanagan). Hopefully you find some resources to get this new build sorted out.

You could always start with the GM/Chev Dealership, talk with the Parts/Service Dept and see if there are people who do tuning or work on the fbody cars and go from there (in terms of making contacts).

Have a safe move, and hopefully all works out well with the safetying of your rides.

Kelowna has only think mustang dyno. Which of course is good for tuning. But Vancouver is only 4 and half hours away and of course Van has everything. Or Calgary is 8 hours back and Edmonton 11 or so. So lots of choices there. Base tune is easy to do. Fine tuning takes dyno for sure. Would take forever to try to tune part throttle on the street.And of course going wot on the street is also not the best idea.

Don't think Kelowna has much f body community at all. No one on this forum has responded back to my questions about the place. Can't even find out altitude of Thunder Mountain track their website don't say altitude. Mission is sea level and can hit negative density air some days! It don't get better than that.

Kelowna is not air care crap like lower mainland which might be gone anyway end of this year think it expires and most don't want it back. So hopefully just be putting some cats on the car ,kooks make stainless bolt on ypipe that has cats that would fit on no problem.Or it could be sold ,several guys ready to see it when its running which could be this weekend!
Working on base tune now.
91 talon race car don't go thru anything it don't get plated,track only car. Z06 is stock and has 12k on it.
Already went thru BC safety six months before I got it . Not even sure it has to go again but likely big rip off should be canada wide. Van not worried 08. Sold truck.Get new one when get there. 97 talon might again need cats ,not sure what else or it might be sold. Everything is new on it pretty much.
Looking at viper in BC actually now but it of course is BC car ,no safety required.

Finally had time to start working on the Camaro again, got the old turbo removed and installed a .96 AR vs the original .81 AR turbo housing:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3379.jpg

I have a "small" gap in the stock y-pipe to the old 3 inch exhaust running to the rear of the car...which will get sorted out soon...smaller diameter is better fo sho!

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3383.jpg

Sorted out the rear and front coolant crossover:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3386.jpg

This is a pic of my engine bay from a few days ago:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3387.jpg

I am going to sort out the rest of the PCV system and breathers in a few hours, and then slowly take care of the rest of the electrical connections (O2 sensors, wiring harnesses, etc), and then install the battery.

Next step will be to add all the needed fluids (coolant, oil, brake fluid, etc), and then ask a friend of mine and tuner to install an initial tune on the car, and see if everything looks alright.

If all goes well, i am going to finish off the tuning next spring summer, and then see how well this car does. My goal is around the 750hp crank mark...and i think with 8lbs of boost or so, i should be pretty darn close.

Good to see your car so close to up and running. Should really rip with the upgraded snail and engine.:devil:

Subscribed. cant wait to see the finished product

Good luck with the build, haven't been to Kelowna in many many years.

Good luck with the build, haven't been to Kelowna in many many years.

Fastrnu lives in Sask. I used to live there until few weeks ago.
Just to clear that up.

Thanks, and ya, i live in good ol Saskatchewan! I do have family in Kelowna and love it out there...if that matters :)

Got the car fired up the other night...but shut it down after 2 seconds as the car was literally engulfed in smoke. Between the copper anti-seize, and oils, break-in lubricants...I thought my car had gone up in fire!

Anyways, 3 starts later, the last of the initial smokiness is gone :)

I am hoping if all goes well to license the Camaro in 12-16 hours and get it on the road. The 1st tune was installed thanks to a friend and local tuner. I wont' get into the boost yet as i still have to get some exhaust work done...but i want to start breaking in the motor and working out any kinks that may surface sooner than later.

I'll post pics and vids once i can get them. I am back doing a 12 shift stretch, so not much will get done past tomorrow for a bit. I'm looking forward to seeing what sort of numbers this thing will put out, and i will post the dyno graph once i get a chance to do so (although it will be next year).

You should post an update here.
I sent you email with some tips on things like your PO300 code.Did you get it?
Yesterday was a good example of why I love it in Kelowna. Was out cruising it was a great day, sunny and near 70 degrees and first was running around beside a red r8 and then a bit later a red newer vert viper. Viper guy was very friendly and nice we gave each other the thumbs up.And then on way to supper a nice Ford GT40 came flashing by.Those things look so amazing.
I was in z06 though 99TT is still out in Sask guess pick it up next spring.

Al, i didn't get an email...i will go through all of my email accounts to see if something got overlooked. My wife sometimes has my blackberry and if she answered my phone beeping, the email wouldn't have shown up as "unread". Thanks for posting this, i'll check and reply back.

Here's a vid of my car moving for the first time...i've since installed a muffler post turbo as this exhaust was setting off car alarms as i drove by at sub-3k rpms:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ7x-HKF2_4

Here are a few recent pics:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3473-1.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3501.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3502.jpg

I have to sort out a P0300 code that i can't get rid of. I am going to replace my blaster coils, i've rechecked the spark plug gapping and my wires are fine.

I'm thinking it's going to be related to a tuning issue, knock sensors (as i am running poly engine mounts), or a local mechanic said worst case scenario...i have something internal going on (i hope this isn't the case).

On top of this, i have to sort out a Racetronix Fuel Pump issue. My fuel pump won't "kick down"...it stays running in high mode all the time (noisy). I'm hoping to address this before the summer of 2012.

I have to sort out a P0300 code that i can't get rid of. I am going to replace my blaster coils, i've rechecked the spark plug gapping and my wires are fine.

I'm thinking it's going to be related to a tuning issue, knock sensors (as i am running poly engine mounts), or a local mechanic said worst case scenario...i have something internal going on (i hope this isn't the case).

On top of this, i have to sort out a Racetronix Fuel Pump issue. My fuel pump won't "kick down"...it stays running in high mode all the time (noisy). I'm hoping to address this before the summer of 2012.


MSD Blaster coils are your problem.

Do a search,the stock ones are more than enough if you want something more get some truck coils.

Your car was pretty loud pre muffler addition! PO300 is common code for aftermarket cams and most times people simply turn it off in tuning.
You can possibly depending on if you are currently still running maf or not and speed density yet simply read the individual cylinders and then narrow down exactly what one has problem but again it might be simply the cam you used.
I am running the very mellow ls9 cam in my 427 and no code 300.
I am seeing some knock sensor codes sometimes though.
Maybe from the relocation of the sensors on my ls3 engine from normal ls1 locations.
I had no po 300 code with the lingerfelter gt7 cam in my 408 either but did get some when was running my mt1 cam in my old 346. As said it can simply be the cam you picked. And if it is just cam then likley it is not causing any performance loss at all and can simply be turned off.
But if you see big misfire on one cylinder then you have something to look at more closely. I did have those problems a few times when had burned up ,fubared up wires.car was also doing things though like machine gun noise when floored it. And running pretty rough.

I emailed the owner of Champion Motors (Toronto, ON), who mentioned a Crank Re-Learn may be needed. I got ahold of a friend who has HP Tuners, and after 2 Crank Re-Learns...no more misfires!

The misfires i had were with the stock coils...one of which was pooched anyways. I have the MSD's on there now, but i will keep and clean my stock coils and hold onto them in case there are issues down the road..thankfully they are easy to swap out.

I am going to park the car for the winter by Nov 1st, so tuning will recommence in 2012.

All i need to do now, is a little more engine break in, put the interior back together and then sort out the fuel issues i have.

Getting closer..one step at a time.

I have just started thinking and researching what problems i am contending with. At this stage i am going to start looking for any possible vacuum leaks, and once i'm confident there aren't any, then i will do a boost leak test as a precautionary measure. Both of these i'd like to have done before spring so that once the snow is gone i can get the camaro back on the road and start the long trek to getting this car dialed in properly.

I got ahold of a friend who has HP Tuners, and after 2 Crank Re-Learns...no more misfires!


I need to do a Crank relearn on my Camaro as well...Can you explain how you used HP Tuners to perform a Crank relearn. I also have HP tuners and would like to do this.
Thanks

There is a tab option in HP Tuners for a Crank Re-Learn:

When you initiate the relearn, you have to steadily raise the RPM to above 4000 (WITHIN a 10 second period).

As soon as the RPM is high enough you will get a sharp stumble for a moment... immediately release the throttle and let the engine spin down to idle, turn key off and wait at least 15 seconds.

As mentioned, you may need to try once or twice, but is should work for you.

Thanks for the info, I will have to try this come Spring time.

FrankieD...if you run into any problems..i will pm you the email of our local tuner and see if he can give you a hand.

I haven't had any ability/time to test out possible vacuum leaks with this turbo setup. But i got to thinking about ECU issues, and between my tuner and myself we figure whats happened is that there is an RPM Limiter on the base tune from STS.

The original tune appears to have a 2 Step tune built into it which we think is causing my vehicle to redline at 3750rpms. When the snow melts, i'm going to get my tuner over and he's going to rewrite the tune, and with the help of Rick Squires with STS, we are hoping to get the tune sorted out, and then put some miles on the car as i start dipping into boost.

I still have a wiring issue with the Racetronix Fuel Pump that i am going to have to get help into sorting out. Once this is done it should be off for a dyno session and see what we can pull out of this car.

A local member of another forum let me know that the noise that i think is my fuel pump, is likely the STS supplied Oil Pump running in High Mode when the ignition is turned on. Later in the week, i'm going to jack up the car again and get underneath it to see exactly what's going on. I removed some of the PCV pieces/wiring from the STS kit and apparently that can cause the Oil Pump to default to running in High mode all the time....so we'll see.

I've almost got my interior back together. I ended up pulling out the tan carpet and ordering a full carpet from Auto Custom Carpets, and after lots of cutting (and swearing), have the black carpet in. I'm just finishing off with a few interior screws and trim pieces.

Once i get my new Hurst Shifter installed and some of the snow melts here and the sand is removed from our streets, i'm going to start driving this car and down the road get that ECU limiter removed and start putting some miles on this baby finally.

Once i can get this car (street tuned), i will head off to a local dyno and put my car through it's paces and see what she's going to put down at the rear wheels. I will have someone taking pics and vids.

Between a move to a new house and going through a layoff, i haven't had much for time with my Fbody, but here are some updates:

I've gotten most of the interior back together after swapping the tan carpet for a black one, and i have my Z back up on blocks to sort out some fuel/oil pump issues:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3827.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3828.jpg

I still have some cleanup to do, but this should be functional for the 2012 season, and then it'll look better for 2013:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3830.jpg

One of our local members was able to scan my ABS codes tonight and there is some issue with my front right wheel wiring...which i'll check out shortly. Could be a broken wire or something simple-ish to fix, we'll see.

With encouragement, i was able to bury the pedal and found (long story short) that i have a 3500rpm limter in neutral and 2nd gear.

The 1st, 3rd, and 4th gears when buried will rev past 3500rpms but as the boost builds to 4psi, it starts dropping off.

The car is going up on jackstands tomorrow and the Fuel Filter is gonna get changed to see the fuel pump noise is from a blocked filter (resistance)...and if that doesn't solve it, than a trap door is being hacked up for ease of access due to the nature of the current rear end setup.

I want to find a "genie in a bottle" rub the crap outta it and get this car sorted out with one of my 3 wishes :)

Always something once you start modding things to the moon! Been following your cars progress on f body board and on here. Sounds like three or four problems mostly annoying you now. Fuel pump noise .yeah much easier to cut hatch opening. I did that on my 99 and don't regret it. Can get in there very quick if have to. Nothing would be worse than being far from home and having fuel pump go or some problem in there that would require hours of labor to fix at some shop out in nowhere. Hatch solves that problem and is common in many cars. My eagle talons use factory access panels. Makes it simple to swap /fix fuel pumps. Minutes versus hours.
Restrictions can cause increases in noise. So for sure you want to check it possibly without fuel filter and change out fuel filter. And you should have fuel pressure guage on car very important on boosted car to know fuel pressure. Incar are nice too but pricey ,minimum would run an underhood one at all times.And you can blow out lines with compressed air. And once you have access hatch not hard to swap out pumps they are pretty cheap so having a spare wouldn't cost much or second pump to swap just to see if that is problem.
My twin intank pumps are pretty quiet in my 99 although been awhile since driven the 99 last august. I went intank not external to keep the car as quiet as possible since it was made to be a street not track car.And second pump comes on at higher boost level they don't both run at same time. And got at least back up if one pump goes down far from home.

Abs problems can be found faster with scanner as these can pinpoint which sensor/wheel/side is problem and give some clues. You can have a broken or damaged wire to sensor, bad sensor,etc abs problems can be annoying had one on wifes 96z but forget now what was the cause.

Your boosting not past 4psi problem still sounds like boost leak to me. And obviously you have to be able to go to full throttle or at least heavy into the throttle and higher up the rpm band to make any boost with your think pretty big single.
And you have no reason to have a rev limiter likely lower than 6500 or 7000 rpm depending on your engine builders recommendations. I would have thought you would have had Ck already give it a decent base tune. Just get that afr at wot in nice safe range and don't worry much about the part throttle as bit off there isn't going to do much. Of course always run premium fuel for safety as well. If you are not getting good boost also could be
turbo problem, gate problem are you external or internal gate? Are you running manual or electronic boost controller? If external what base spring? Usually you can't go much past double the gate spring on externals. A quick test sometimes is to disconnect line to gate and watch boost carefully. Of course don't recommend bypassing gate for more than carefully watched tests and you can still control boost with right foot.

I found automotive smoke machine to work great for finding boost leaks on my cars.
They had one at south ok tire in Regina. Great little helper for FI cars.
You will of course need more rpm in higher gears and two steps more on manual cars than autos which can build good boost with the proper stalls. Manuals really benefit from two steps.
Not sure how the limiter works in neutral if it does work like a true two step. I run msd two step in my 99 tt and it builds boost like crazy. I get more boost than know what to do with and my twins spool up quick have to log them sometime but bet all in by 2500 or 3000 or so ,of course the 427 cubic inches help as well.

Anyway looking forward to seeing future results with your car and maybe even seeing it if you do drive it out to Kelowna this year.

I had some gremlins on my 99 that were and still are driving me a bit nuts and hopefully can fix them this year.They were mostly minor things.

One of our local members was able to scan my ABS codes tonight and there is some issue with my front right wheel wiring...which i'll check out shortly. Could be a broken wire or something simple-ish to fix, we'll see.

With encouragement, i was able to bury the pedal and found (long story short) that i have a 3500rpm limter in neutral and 2nd gear.

The 1st, 3rd, and 4th gears when buried will rev past 3500rpms but as the boost builds to 4psi, it starts dropping off.

The car is going up on jackstands tomorrow and the Fuel Filter is gonna get changed to see the fuel pump noise is from a blocked filter (resistance)...and if that doesn't solve it, than a trap door is being hacked up for ease of access due to the nature of the current rear end setup.

I want to find a "genie in a bottle" rub the crap outta it and get this car sorted out with one of my 3 wishes :)

Oops tired it is late . See you did scan it and narrow it down to the right front wheel on the abs issue. That helps.
And maybe you can give me one or two of those wishes.

So i popped out and had my ABS system scanned...there's something amiss in the front right section of my car...which i'll czech out over the weekend after the camaro is up on jackstands.

Now to my tuning or car related question:

The rpm limiter is set to kick in around 3500rpm in neutral (fact).

After some prompting from Rogue tonight, i buried the needle in 3rd and 4th gear to find...there is no limiter and there was no "stalling" out around the 3500rpm mark. What did happen though is the boost would build to 4 psi and then bleed off, but the car would rev to near redline and the AFR's were anywhere between 10.6-11.3.....in the 3rd and 4th gear with the pedal to the metal.

What is interesting is the limiter only kicks in while in the 2nd gear.

This got me to thinking...what about 1st gear. So on my way home, i stopped the car, buried the pedal in 1st gear and she revs to well over 6k rpms without cutting out! Boost bleeds off quickly...but it's not limited.

2nd gear seems to be my issue (electronically).

Could the 2nd gear and neutral rev limiter be somehow connected?

__________________

Well is this still the sts tune in there?
I can possibly see them using limiter in neutral to mabye act as two step type of thing.
I can't see any reason at all for any limiter happening or to be programmed in 1st,2nd ,all your gears. You should for sure be at 6000,6500,7000 whatever your engine builder recommends but 6500 to 7000 should be fine would think. For now even get all gears even neutral set to 6000 or 6500.
It would take Ck seconds to do this and your afr wot looks fine good enough for some short full throttle blasts.
But keep saying this but certainly sounds like a boost leak problem. Your turbo should boost to 20psi no problem. But once again are you running internal or external gate? And if external what spring is in there. And if external with say 10psi base spring then maybe you have problem with gate . Or you have fubared turbo.
Get that limiter gone NOW! I could take it out in seconds if was there .Its super easy to take out limiter. And you set it on each gear and neutral separately. Its simple tuning adjustment.

But most common reason for lack of boost is boost leak. Of course if you have a 4psi spring in there.. The spring is maximum boost unless you have controller hooked up.
Had 7.5 springs in my twin turbo. So 7.5 was max could hit with no controller hooked up. Put in 10psi base springs end of last season. Now can hit 10psi no controller. You can't go under the base spring either. This is on external gate but thought sts has external tial gate in their system?
And you can put the gate together wrong with the ring in there so maybe have to take gate apart and check it. Should be easy to disassemble gate in your car not so fun in mine to get to passenger gate.
Also if you have a boost controller you can try upping the boost or take line off to the gate as a quick test. If you still can't go past 4psi and you do not have limiter in the higher gears set to some stupid low rpm like 3500 then its boost leak,bad turbo or something with the gate.
As said if you can get access to a an automotive smoke machine you can usually find boost leaks quickly. Couplers and clamps are one bit area for leaks. t bolt clamps are much better than worm gear clamps. And you can get leaks in some funny places. Intake manifold, injectors,etc. But normally will be couplers and piping leaks. I guess slight chance your turbo is fubar even new ones can sometimes be duds.
And assume your boost guage is working properly. That car should be decent fast with even 4psi but should start being smoking fast at 7 to 10psi. And that should be safe range on pump gas no alc injection with your current afr .Timing of course is very important too want to make sure you are not running too much timing better to be safe than sorry in that area.
So isn't Ck around these days to give you 5 minutes to fix this stuff for you?

Got the ABS issue sorted out, turns out it was a severed wire...not sure from what, but i'll chalk it up to when the LS2 motor was put in at some point.

The new fuel filter made no difference in fuel pump noise, so the hatch has to be cut for diagnostic reasons.

Tomorrow, i am going to turn up the "Turbosmart Boost T" and see if that helps to allow the car to build more boost than the 4 psi i've recently hit.

CK has been fairly busy with personal things as well as other builds, so i haven't harassed him for time. Though i am at a point now where my issues are down solely to:

1. ECU (2nd gear limiter and a 2nd look and revision of the initial tune)
2. Fuel pump noise (trap door access to be done shortly)

We have a driveway being poured soon, and i work pretty much steady on nights the next 2 weeks, so the car may end up sitting for upwards of a month after tomorrow. I am hoping to ask CK for a bit of his time and bring my car to him and see what he thinks as i don't deal with the HP Tuners program and tuning.

I'll keep this thread updated as anything new is sorted out....it's slowly getting there :)

Got the ABS issue sorted out, turns out it was a severed wire...not sure from what, but i'll chalk it up to when the LS2 motor was put in at some point.

The new fuel filter made no difference in fuel pump noise, so the hatch has to be cut for diagnostic reasons.

Tomorrow, i am going to turn up the "Turbosmart Boost T" and see if that helps to allow the car to build more boost than the 4 psi i've recently hit.

CK has been fairly busy with personal things as well as other builds, so i haven't harassed him for time. Though i am at a point now where my issues are down solely to:

1. ECU (2nd gear limiter and a 2nd look and revision of the initial tune)
2. Fuel pump noise (trap door access to be done shortly)

We have a driveway being poured soon, and i work pretty much steady on nights the next 2 weeks, so the car may end up sitting for upwards of a month after tomorrow. I am hoping to ask CK for a bit of his time and bring my car to him and see what he thinks as i don't deal with the HP Tuners program and tuning.

I'll keep this thread updated as anything new is sorted out....it's slowly getting there :)

Good on the abs, one problem fixed!
Be interesting to see what boost controller does but think you have boost leak . Is it external gate? What spring is in there. maybe you only have 4psi spring? Of course you can go higher than spring pressure with boost controller but not lower than spring pressure And usually can't go much more than double spring pressure with controller.

Too bad you just need Ck to give you one minute to take out /check rev limiters you want them all 6000 to 7000 depending on builders recommendation. Full tuning would take a long time hour and hours on street ,faster on dyno. Full throttle once close is main thing then part throttle later on.As long as you are rich enough and keep timing low enough you should be safe and car should run pretty good. Most times 10.5 thru about 11.5 is good afr ,timing depends on compression etc. But likely be at 10 or 12 range for now.Run of course premium fuel.

Boost leak you might need to find automotive smoke machine. Hopefully there is one in Stoon there for sure is one at Ok tire south in Regina.

On the fuel pump well filter didn't help. Do you have fuel pressure gauge under hood? Course hard to check that one when driving you need other type for that mechanical you could tape to windshield expensive electrical you can use in car.
I would think blockage in lines might cause pump to work super hard. Did you run that pump out of fuel? That can kill pumps.

But having access is still much better anyway. I have think how to or link to it on one of my old posts. It was pretty easy and bought some hatch cover off think it was ebay. Made things look more professional.Forget already how we cut it out maybe tin snips grinders make a lot of sparks.

Broken passenger wheel well ABS wire:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/absclip1.jpg

Sautered:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/absclip2.jpg

And now the fuel pump access panel cut:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_3891.jpg

Next up will be "priming' of the bare metal with primer, then painting with the proper color to seal the metal and prevent rust.

Then a friend lended me a 340lp/h Walboro fuel pump, so i will yank the Racetronix 255/hr and see if this makes any difference.

Hopefully over the next 4 weeks i can get some time to get at this stuff.

These things take time. You figured out the abs problem.. excellent! Now that you have easy access to the pump that shouldn't be too hard to figure out either.

That's what i'm hoping. The 340lph Walboro i borrowed requires some "modification" of the stock pump housing which isn't in the car presently. I am hoping what i'm dealing with is a bad fuel pump regulator.....but i have to find one, get it swapped in, connect all those stupid lines up and test.

If that fuel pump regulator isn't the problem, then i will modify the stock fuel pump housing, drop in the 340lph Walboro and see what happens.

I got the fuel pump out and realized that the 340lph Walboro i borrowed has a different connector than mine has...so that swap was kybashed!

I rerouted one of the plastic corrugated lines, checked all wiring and tubing for kinks, put everything back in....and no luck.

I have a thread under the fuel section and i'm asking for help to get this problems sorted out currently.

Should have look at that thread and have seen your thread on f body gen of course.
Maybe since you have spent this much already time to spend a bit more and maybe just get a second racetronix pump from them and see if its same. Can't be that much really here to check and sometimes you have to throw more money at something to fix it. AT worst you have an identical spare. Fact sure chris has one of them in his car and no problem and as said had one in wifes 96z28 as well. Easy plug and play and quiet in tank especially compared to external pumps.Fact thats why went with double intank to keep things quiet and streetable. Whole project was to build a super crazy fast street car that was docile off boost and a tiger on boost. Mellow cam, reasonably tight stall, etc and quiet fuel system.

I unfortunately don't have my car near me to see how loud my fuel setup is. I have dual pumps second one coming on at some boost and the other one of course running all the time as main pump. I got all my stuff from lonnies great guy . I did have racetronix in the wifes car and it seemed fine didn't notice much if any big noises from it. So would think if its not fuel filter which not sure if you changed out???

Maybe you just need a louder stereo or louder exhaust! Kidding..
I know things can be annoying .I still have some things that bug me on my 99TT. I had funny noise from wheel only did it when turning sharp or throwing steering wheel hard back and forth. Took that front wheel apart like 5 times and checked and messed on brakes and then finally figured out it was drivers side rear wheel! Finally had brother in law drive it and I could clearly here it was back wheel so likely something with parking brake or something and sure now that know what wheel it is will be able to fix it.

I also had horrible vibration problems and if you remember my posts on f body or here really car felt like it would shake apart past 80 it got horrlbly bad and went nuts trying to figure it out. And have most of it fixed now. But put in quite a bit of time and money to make it better.

But still think have some vibration that don't like might be stall,might be trans might be the poly engine mounts likely its the last thing.

Oh well hope you get it fixed and are happy with it. All the time and money that goes into modding these things. That is why my new philosophy is stock or very very near stock
now with the next stable cars.But likely have a couple of modded ones around forever so just have to also figure out the things that bug me and try to fix them.

So you coming thru Ktown still?
Like to see and maybe get ride in your car if you do.

Are you going to dyno track it once you get these last little bugs fixed? When is SIR open this year?

I am planning to come to Regina and drive my 99TT back end of this month or early next .Not shipping it . Should be fun cruise thru mountains. Z06 was huge fun had some duels with Turbo trucks that was hilarious. But think they found out that z06 aerodynamics are just a bit better than their barn door trucks. And not a chance those trucks could out corner,out break and those ones at least couldn't out accelerate even my bone stock z06.
Fact me and son were sure one truck went off cliff trying to keep up to me in the twisties. Of course didn't realize that the fines for speeding in BC are about same as babykilling and I was definitely not going the speed limit on those mountain roads, awesome roads of course for cars like z06. Tons of super tight curves, hairpin,s curves, you name it. Great scenery like a video game.

Anyway sorry rambling in your thread . Persistence ... you will figure it out!! Lots of smart guys on this board. Have helped me out tons of times.
And on a further note.should be interesting to see how 72 sprint does with his car and my old 408. Should make some serious power and run some serious times.
Just wish wasn't so busy and could get away to get my car back sooner. Damn real estate is keeping me super busy but what a bitch to get relicensed out here. 1000 page book ,killer exam definitely won't be many people coming into it the way they have it now and miss all those young hotties that came into it back in the day.But guess now might still get the really smart young hotties.

Saskatoon and Regina are still booming I think and its getting better out here it seems a lot better pretty strong spring.And those lower mainland prices ,Van,Victoria wow just wow.

Seems to me have seen noisy fuel pumps in some of my talons and they use similar walbros or supra tt pumps also mounted in tank. Think plugged fuel filter was one reason, and damaged pump from running tank empty they hate that the fuel cools the pump can't let them run empty or too near empty too many times. Don't think any of them were noisy from voltage but guess big over voltage would make them noisy for sure take off any voltage booster.
Really its just a pump, fuel filter,few wires, relay what else is there.

Al, the wife, son and I are hoping to get out to Kelowna this summer if work will grant me a few vacation days...unfortunately it won't be in the camaro (too much left to sort out), it'll be in the wife's 09 infiniti g37xS sedan...which is only so bad :)

After MUCH problem solving and bouncing ideas off people, i learned (and i hope this is correct)...The factory ECU/PCM sends out a signal for a few seconds on the green/white fuel pump trigger wire to the fuel pump relay (in the engine bay behind the driver side headlamp) which then in turn "primes" the fuel pump for a few seconds. Then after a few seconds, the voltage at the ECU/PCM green/white wire should drop (with JUST the ignition on).

My ECU/PCM voltage at that green/white wire DOESN"T drop...even after a minute of running, which leads me to believe that my ECU/PCM is bad.

I am awaiting some responses and will see where to go...but it may be getting a new ECU/PCM....damn.

Yeah sometimes you have to throw money at things in hopes of fixing them.
You should be able to pick up an ecm cheap on ebay I would think or off this board,etc.Or why not just borrow one off local guys someone must have a 98 also? They of course are easy to swap in too and at worst have a spare or can resell it . Cars are getting older not bad idea to have some spare parts for down the road.

Doesn't sound like you have too many issues on yours really. The fuel pump thing, the rev limiter thing is just tuning and the low boost is likely just a boost leak as long as turbo is working properly.

The GT67 seems a little small for a forged 402. It might spool really fast but you will CHOKE that bitch up top. Both sides are a little small for what you need. That 402 will move alot of air if it is not your IAT's skyrocketing past 4-5psi than I can almost guarantee it will be down on power due to a backpressure issue. (I had to learn the hard way) Its not making pressure in the intake that is the problem. It is getting the exhaust out. That housing gets so damn small to get it to spool back there that it causes a big restriction when a big cube engine wants to breathe.

Remember boost is only a measure of your intake pressure. You need to get the air out. GT76 would suit you perfect. gt67 is more for a stock cube setup you spent the $$ on the cubes and the forged internals might as well use them.

I am sure I am telling you shit you already know but this is the dilema with the RM setups when you want big power. Power curves with them hit a wall.

I PM'd Chance575 (a member of this board) a while back, he runs that turbo on a cammed 6.0 and it is pegged out at 8-8.5 psi if I remember right.

1-sick-z, thank you for your post. I will admit, i didn't know my GT67 was under-rated for my motor. How can a person know what size turbo to use in their build?

I am still trouble shooting a possible ECM/fuel pump/fuel pump relay issue.

Once i get this fuel pump ECM issue sorted, out, then my next issue will be sorting out why i have a second gear (ONLY) limiter, and THEN it will be doing some tuning.

1. My ECU is sending the proper signal to my fuel pump relay (it's clicking the way it should)

2. My tuner was UNABLE to turn my fuel pump ON or OFF with his HP Tuners. Yet on his 99 Camaro, he was able to turn it on and off by clicking a button on his laptop.

3. I am getting a phantom P0650 code

4. We weren't able to establish what in the ignition system sends out "reference pulses" to the ECU. The ECU shuts down after 2 seconds of priming on his camaro...yet in mine it doesn't. We are thinking that there is something electronic sending out a small amount of voltage telling the ECU that my car is running or the fuel pump hasn't primed. Still stumped.

5. I still have a boost leak (i'm thinking...if my turbo isn't too small). We don't know if it's coming from the "turbo to throttle" side or the "exhaust manifold to turbo" side. I am going to head to Partsource and Home Depot in the morning and try and build a DIY Boost leak tester.

6. I'm missing a piece of metal in my rear driver fender well that my air intake tube is supposed to bolt to...so it's rattling around like a siv. I'll have to get something welded in place to fix that.

7. I found a green striped wastegate spring in my Turbosmart Ultragate 38mm Wastegate. Not sure what pressure it is supposed to be as mine was supposed to come with a blue spring. I can't find any information on this particular spring, so i emailed STS and we'll see what he's able to figure out.

8. STS sent me a tune which was able to fix my 2nd gear limiter issue by removing the neutral limiter on my tune...so now all my gears work fine

Good to see you are getting some stuff figured out like you got that limiter gone.
But that pump issue what the heck?? Something must be wired wrong maybe they have something reversed in a connector. Woudn't be the first time ! Ask me how I know. I think it was on my cam sensor wiring that happened. Drove me nuts but finally figured it out.

Yeah weird on that spring found this on turbosmart website

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/ultragate_springchart.pdf

Obviously if you have a 4psi spring that is all you will see with no boost controller. And usually you can get around double the spring max. Some controllers can think give more though. So I had 7.5 psi springs and now put in 10psi so could hit 20 or so max if want to.

boost leaks will of course not help . As said too bad no smoke machine available the one at Ok tire in Regina worked fantastic few times for me finding boost leaks on my talons and think checked 99tt also once . Its automotive smoke machine.

So are you driving it around a fair bit now. It should still seem pretty quick the bigger cube engine even at 4psi.

You are of course likely still in break in mode?

Hoping to finally go back and get my 99TT very shortly. Was going to go next weekend but got back into real estate out here and just sold a condo and have conditions removal on 28th so guess try to go June 1 possession is June 20.

Just fly down Friday drive car back saturday. Too busy at work now to stay away very long. Market seems to have picked up pretty nicely here . No doubt those crazy prices farther west are not hurting sales in Kelowna.

Well keep at it you will get it figured out sooner or later. Me pretty much decided my future cars are going to stay really close to stock. This dicking around with these highly modded ones does get a bit old . But of course when put the hammer down on the big 427 and hear those big snails spin up and the tires go up in smoke for as long as you want to keep the pedal down then it sometimes still seems worth it. Just wish had got that traction control option on my 99! Have to try out my et streets this season. Those toyo drag radials really dont work that well at even current 10psi power level. What are you running for tires on your car??
What controller do you have? My eboost 2 can ramp boost by gear, rpm or time. Think gear is likely best of all three although time might work at the track .Rpm is similar to how ati procharger works. Have to definitely play with the ramping this season.

I have only put on 150 miles since starting it up this year...so not as much as i would like. My motor and turbo are working really hard. I can't spin the tires in my first gear, and it almost feels like i'm hauling a 2 ton trailer behind my car when i full throttled my car. If i had to guess a horsepower number (peak) currently, i'd say my car is putting out about 250hp or so. My Infiniti would walk ALL OVER my camaro the way it's driving currently.

I got around to pressurizing the intake system from turbo to throttle body.

This is the point where you ask how impressed i am......and i reply NOT VERY FU&(&IN MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The initial installer (GSS) i see drilled 3 small holes in the charge pipe which were bleeding out boost, as well as my front mount blow off valve is PISSING out air. I used a 4 gallon, 135 psi compressor, and allowing it to run at 5-8 psi constant, the leaks in my system had the tank depleted in around a minute....not good.

I managed to get to Greenline and picked up 2 different size silicone hoses and clamps to go over the drilled holes in my charge pipe.

My blow off valve is MISSING the O-Ring that should help to seal things off (STS is sending me a new one).

So my car will sit dormant for a while until i get the new O-Ring for my blow off valve and with the help of STS we are going to figure out what spring to best use in my wastegate as i seem to have an "unknown" spring in my wastegate as well.

I just sent photos off to STS Turbo and will call them tomorrow and follow up with them and get some crap sent my way.

Next step (once these parts are in) will be looking at the exhaust (for leaks). I think my manifolds are fine...i am more curious to know if my y-pipe is sealing well under boost (stock parts use flare joints....kinda like a ball into a ball glove).

Well leaking blowoff is going to of course bleed off boost big time.And those other little leaks not going to help either.And of course exhaust leaks as well.
And you need to figure out the spring thing 5psi base could let you get to 10psi with controller and you can always put in a 7 or 10 base later or even bigger .Have to see how it is for traction. Remember you can't go under the spring..unless you have leaks.

Booked flight for june 1 so hope to bring back 99. Could be few weeks or longer till get it plated here since still not 100% sure if have to buy ypipe or not as have no cats. No air care in Kelowna thank God! Car would not pass air care.

I received an email during the day today, saying my O-ring should be here Tuesday May 29th. I ended up ordering one for a Tial 50mm BOV as that's what STS used to use on their previous setups. I've also just learned from "Tial" that STS as of 2008 stopped using their BOV's and outsourced their BOV's to a chinese company (which happens to be mine).

STS wanted $75 to ship an O-ring from their warehouse to me....and i almost gagged at the price. $65 of that was shipping, brokerage and border fees!

Prior to learning what i know now, i ordered one from an online source. So i am hoping to heck that this O-ring coming this way is the proper fit, or i'll be coughing up $75 more for a rubber o-ring and waiting another few weeks to finish off the boost leak test on the intake side of my car.

I now have an o-ring that works but is less than 100% fit, but it's gonna have to do...and it's holding up to the boost leak test (BLT) i've just done.

In doing a BLT yesterday my intake air temp sensor gasket (pink) popped out of the charge pipe. So i got ahold of an "epoxy" like substance, let it cure overnight and "voila", no more leak from that sensor (it's just down from my throttle body and behind my radiator):

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%201st%20STS%20install/intakeinletfitting.jpg

I just ran a subsequent BLT and my system had one more leak i took care of but is now leak free.

We are having our driveway dug/poured starting tomorrow, so in the next 2 weeks, once i get my car off jackstands and to an exhaust shop, i will get the few minor exhaust leaks around existing welds sorted out and then wait to see when the tuning can resume.

Here's a better pic of the BLT i made...the one on the left is the actual tester...the one on the right is what i started with. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the cap, then i epoxied the hole, and put some epoxy on the threads of the 1/4" industrial air fitting, and screwed it into place. The silicone coupler on there is a 2"x2" silicone coupler..but i had to use a stronger clamp for the one end of the silicone coupler due to a weird bend where it went on.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/BoostLeakTester1.jpg

This is a pic of the "cap" i put on the end of the throttle body tubing...basically just another piece of PVC pipe:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/BoostLeakTester2.jpg

A pic of where the air compressor was pumping air into:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/BoostLeakTesterSTSLS1.jpg

A pic of the STS coupler and just to the right, a new silicone ring with clamp to close off 1 of the 3 holes punched in my charge pipe:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/SIliconeCouplerforholeinchargepipe.jpg

And the cap for my BLT'er:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/BoostLeakTesterCapSTSLS1.jpg

Good job on figuring out those boost leaks. Its easy to find them with an automotive smoke machine but doing it the way you did and the way most talon guys /import guys do it can work as well. Sure you will already have a huge difference on your car. Remember though that you still need to hook up a boost controller to go beyond gate spring pressure. And a controller can't go under gate spring pressure. have you figured out what spring pressure you have now in your gate?There was some question about springs?

There is a bit more variables too with the sts as you have the long pipe to take the boost to the front of the car not short run off some exhaust manifold like say in normal front mount setups.
I have seen lots of boost leaks thru the years on my cars especially my talons. As they are usually older high mileage cars you get many more places for leaks.
You get leaks on the tb to intake manifold gaskets. You get leaks at the intake manifold to head gaskets, you get leaks at the fuel injector seals. On talons since stock they are draw thru you find out pretty quick if you have a big leak on charge pipe as the car will just die. I usually convert my talons to blow thru maf or speed density then if you get a big leak ahead of the maf the car still runs.
I would replace any worm gear clamp with t bolt. T bolt are much better clamps. APS gives not bad worm gear but still going to replace mine with t bolt especially as you up boost levels the t bolts take a lot more boost and dont have the chance of cutting into the couplers which can also cause leaks. Talons also get leaks at end of stock intercooler they kind of rot there. And cheap aftermarket intercoolers are famous for leaking and not holding good pressure.
Knock off blow offs and knock off gates also are known of course for not holding boost or not working properly. Most knock offs are chinese junk.
Quality silicone is also important especially as boost levels go up. The talon guys frequently are boosting 25psi some even up to 40 or more. So quality silicone with t bolt clamps are basically a requirement not an option.

Now that you have fixed a lot of leaks you should be able to hit 10psi or whatever and for a test you can simply disconnect line to the gate carefully watch boost and you will still control it with your right foot. But you should be able to hold boost no problem but still think its normal for any car to gradually lost boost when testing if you are pressurizing motor not just charge pipes.
Of course exhaust side is very important too to get the exhaust into the turbo to spin it up. Had problems with talons with exhaust gasket that bent and blocked flow and you don't want exhaust leaks pre turbo of course either. A clogged cat totally killed boost and power on buddy's sts car. The car felt like it had 100hp. It was super super quiet as well. He was stumped but I listened to the car and realized it must be clogged cat. He took it to muffler shop they took out cat and he gained like 400hp! Amazing what a clogged cat can do. Of course worse in sts where the exhaust had to feed the turbo. But clogged cats anywhere are bad news.

I don't run them in turbo cars unless forced too.In your sts a cat could break up and go thru your nice turbo. Not a good thing.

I think am going to have to buy a catted ypipe for my 99TT to get it to pass safety here. But will likely just bolt back on my non catted ypipe right after get it safetied. Problem is think bolt on cat pipe is like 1000 bucks ! ouch!

Maybe can find a blind safety inspector!

Your car should rip pretty darn good at even 5 to 7 or so psi. It should really start to come alive at 10 or more. Course you can't directly compare different turbos on basis of boost ,airflow is what you are really looking at. Two very different turbos will have very different airflow thru them at 10psi.

I noticed a pretty good boost in power in mine from going from 7.5psi to 10psi on the 427.
But also of course changed combo and went from 408 with the little turbos at 7.5 to the 427 with the bigger turbos at 10psi.And the spool time stayed about the same as more cubes spool up quicker Think do even more than higher compression.Not sure what you went for compression mine is 9.5. A bit high but you can use water/meth injection anyway at higher boost levels and think too low can make the car a bit doggy off boost.Also remember that generally boost gives more power than timing and afr . So generally boost it a bit more give it less timing is better than less boost and more timing and the afr can be a bit safe but not stupid rich no need for that.

So you have not had time to go rip your car since messing on it?

Should be a real tiger compared to before you were just about running NA before you fixed the leaks.
And you have your rpm limiter taken out now. Just that fuel pump thing to figure out still?
I would just buy a spare pump, spare ecu and then it has to be wiring . And can be handy to have a spare ecu and spare pump you never know when you need one and the cars are not getting any younger so spare ecu would be good to have maybe. Those talons of mine go thru ecus like crazy especially certain years. Thank goodness our f body ecus seem generally pretty reliable things.

A bit excited now as tomorrow fly to Regina and pick up the 99 and should be on the road home on saturday morning. Maybe even cruise it a bit around town tomorrow night. Have to remember to be a good boy. Regina on friday night is usually wall to wall cops.
Spot checks etc.

Plenty of season left to enjoy the cars ,more so where I live but Regina was very mild last winter,record mild.Our local track opens up this weekend. Not sure when get there realtors are busiest on the weekend usually as you know but at least should be watching some racing soon. Track is so nice and close like Saskatoons SIR is. Shame its 1/8th mile but better than nothing. Actually that hill climb race on Knox mountain looks interesting. Some wicked crashes on that course on youtube. A Porsche gt3 crashing is one video on there.
Likely a better course for the z06 although my 99 handles pretty good but is still a pretty heavy pig. 4l80s and dana 60s and all that turbo stuff are not light.
And other 1/4 mile tracks including Mission BC, that one has my interest. Sea level track lots of records set there.Negative density air on a good day. Don't get any better than that!

What do you have for tires for your car again?

Read some of your newest posts on the old forum. Figured you would have the boost issue sorted out by now unless maybe you have a 3psi spring.If no boost leaks left then has to be gate not staying closed maybe or is blow off still leaking ??
I would replace any chinese blow offs or wastegates with proper genuine name brand like tial stuff. You spent this much whats a bit more. Also some intercoolers are crap not sure if you have ebay intercooler or what? But you said the intercooler holds boost when you did that tests? And assume the turbo is fine ? So my bet now would likely be on gate or maybe blow off. So what happens when you don't hook up gate you should get like 10 or more psi by being careful and watching it when you put it into boost?

Anyway my car is now back in Kelowna. Might be selling it though not sure have some other ideas and plans ,wife wants a nice boat and I kind of do too and may just stick with my new idea of stock stable of high end cars. Z06 was first car in that stable.
But it was fun drive for sure and made it without any big event. Car ran well and no overheating no problems realy at all. Got think around 15 mpg average but was pretty hard on it most of the time.I had fun with it in other words. No speeding tickets either.
But not sure want to go back to Calgary for awhile!! LOL Let buddy in Calgary drive it too.
He had a perma smile for hours afterwards!
Sure some of his neighbors think an f16 flew by their house though!!

Anyway my new engine is working well ,upgrade turbos are boosting well and pretty sure have no boost leaks happening. But still be good to do a test too bad didnt' do a smoke test when back in Regina.

So hopefully you can figure out your car soon. These little things can drive a person crazy if you don't figure them out.

Al, I'm still a fair ways off from figuring out my car unfortunatley. Here's a response i had from STS:

Here is a summary of my last email from STS, i had to leave some of it out for specific reasons:

1. (In response to my belief that my intercooler is free and clear of debris): Sometimes people pull things apart and stuff a rag in a pipe to keep stuff from getting in there and then it is forgotten and reassembled with a rag in the system. That typically ends up in the intercooler. Typically stays on the inlet side as it can’t make it through the fin cores. It will cause a major restriction though which can typically be seen with monitoring the boost at the turbo compressor vs. the intake manifold as turbo boost will go very high while manifold boost stays level or drops off.

2. (In response to my known exhaust leaks): I don’t think it is an exhaust leak. Doesn’t sound like one. The turbo sounds like it is laboring where an exhaust leak won’t let the turbo even spool. It could be an exhaust restriction but I don’t think it is a leak so don’t spend a lot of time looking for a leak on the exhaust.

3. If the engine blew or work was done on the engine or exhaust system prior to this problem, something could have gone through the turbo and damaged the turbine wheel. I’ve even seen a big chunk of catalyst stuck in a turbine housing that caused a condition a lot like this.

4. (In response to my question re: how to test boost pressure directly from the turbo): You can run a hose from your compressor outlet (should be a port on there or you’ll have to drill and tap one right on the compressor outlet just before the first silicone hose). Connect that to your boost gauge and see what the boost is at the turbo. You know what it is at the intake manifold already (4 psi). Standard intercooled system should be about 6-7 psi at the turbo max. From what the video sounds like, I would expect the turbo to be producing upwards of 10 psi.

5. (In response to my question regarding how to check exhaust pressure): Exhaust backpressure is tough to test as you have to put a bung in the exhaust or drill and tap for 1/8” NPT and put a fitting in there with copper tubing to dissipate heat and then convert to rubber tubing to go to your gauge. Careful if there is a problem that you don’t over boost your gauge and ruin your boost gauge.

6. Make sure that the intake from the filter down to the turbo is good. If that area is sealed up too good above the fender liner or if the filter is sandwiched in there too tight, that can cause a restriction. You may want to just put the filter on the turbo for now to rule out anything wrong with that setup.

7. Engine and cam specs seem fine. Only thing I can think of is if you are getting lifter pump or valve train isn’t set up correctly and is too tight. Something possibly causing the valves to float or not seal up correctly as the engine revs up.

8. Wish you were closer and could just ship the car here. I do have a really good GM dealership in Drayton Valley AB but that is about 7 hours from you.

9. Do you have HP Tuners or Predator for tuning? Can you drive the car and watch the timing and LTFT, etc? If the timing is pulling back for some reason, it can run bad like this too. Should be 15-20 degrees of timing at WOT with some boost. Should be 20-25 at WOT without boost.

Most all the above was good advice and helps point you in the right directions.

I have seen a lot of that stuff as well playing with the turbo talons. Rag in intercooler is pretty easy to do. And that is one problem with cat converters on cars that are rear mount.Dangerous if you have cat come apart and go thru turbo.
And seen totally clogged cat on sts car and the car had like 100hp then had like 500 after he fixed up the cat problem.
And seen a few screwed turbos as well. You should see if the turbo spins freely just take off intake tube. And as said if you disconnect line to gate you should be able to get 10psi or more for testing purposes no matter what the gate spring is.

There are only so much things to check /fix . Turbos are pretty simple really. You put exhaust to them and they spin up and boost. But of course you can have as said boost leaks, exhaust leaks,etc.
I dont see problem being undersized turbo. Factory often undersizes for several reasons gives up some top end but gets it spooling quicker. Sure pushing a too small turbo too hard can kill it but really we are talking likely at 20 plus psi.

Once you take off the gate and see that it can boost to 10psi and beyond then you know it might be gate issue if blow off is now sealing.And ifs its knock off chinese gate then just get a real Tial gate and be done with it. You have gone this far may have to go a bit farther.

Got my car into Competition Muffler and it was out just shy of 4 hours later.

I have a new resonator welded in just after the y-pipe, and a muffler welded in after the turbo (right exhaust pipe) for noise reasons.

They snugged everything up, rebent a few pipes, put a new v-clamp on the exhaust to turbo flange and sealed up all the small exhaust leaks.

I ended up also putting a small rubber cap on the fuel vent line that runs into the driver side port just between the throttle body and intake manifold....and holy smack, my car is making 5 lbs of boost (which is the same as the wastegate spring) and it is maintaining it throughout the rev band!

IT WORKS!

I will drive the car occasionally (but nicely) until i can get some further tuning done on the camaro. But i think the biggest of the challenges are over (hopefully).

Bout g*d damn time!

Great project!

your work looks really good.

:cheers:

You have made great progress with your car and figured out the various little issues.
Persistence and sometimes spending or even throwing money at them can win the race but sure can be annoying sometimes.
And little things can drive a guy crazy as well. so you got the boosting issue worked out. A nice tune should make it drive nice . You still have that fuel pump running constantly issue to figure out?
So you are just letting CK tune it ,on local dyno or not? You have to either use dyno or drive it super lots to really get things tuned right especially the part throttle stuff. Are you running 80s or 60s? Those 80s are much more annoying to tune. 60s were cake.
I still have about few issues on my car. Noises from back wheels but at least now know its back wheels and think something with parking brake some interference or something causing some stupid noises.
Headlight that cant figure out won't work. Have new motor, headlight module but think its wire problem maybe crushed or burnt or something or switch maybe inside car. Have to fix that thing for safety even if have to mickey mouse jumper it.
Get a code once in awhile for knock sensor. And have to put cats on car or get a catted ypipe something to pass safety as well. And still have some vibration at higher speeds but not near as bad as in past.Spent big money on carbon fiber driveshaft at end of last season pretty sure wheels are good unless some weights feel off so think its torque arm angles or maybe trans output shaft bushing issue. Hopefully get to the bottom of it and get it fixed . If fix the above issues think would be very happy with my car.
Oh have bit of decel whine as well but not sure can improve that. The dana 60 is a big rearend and you hear every noise in these cars with the hatchback design. But that is liveable just turn up stereo or open cutout a bit.

Anyway you got yours boosting so must be a lot more fun. Nice too that you can easily get to your engine with the rear mount setup. Things are really packed in on my car hard to get to some plugs and stuff.
Some pros and cons to both rear and front mount setups.

But at least you are making progress on your car!

Thanks guys.

I will take a vid of the car driving with the 5# spring in it...and then when i get some tuning done, i will install the electronic boost controller, and slowly dial up the boost to 10-15psi and redo the vid to show the difference.

My local tuner might be avail for a day in early July, and if our schedules don't jive, it'll have to wait until mid to late July 2012.

Although slow, progress is being made.

looks pretty nice so far cant wait to see the next video

Looking at the dyno on the f body board.Is that recent one of your car?
So its running pretty good but you have hesitation? Could be tuning what size injectors are you running? 60s? 80s? I had trouble running closed loop with my 80s so went to full time open loop. It helped my hesitation problems quite a bit. Still on base tune no professional dyno tuning yet. At least looks like you have most of your issues figured out. Sure the car is decently quick already and will only get faster. What tires are you using on it for daily driving?

Here are the basics:

Forged Champion Motors LS2 402ci 8.5 - 1 compression motor

6 spd manual (Spec 3+ clutch with steel flywheel)

Moser 12 bolt (with a turbo UNFRIENDLY 3.90 gear set) Tru-trac diff

STS Rear Mount Turbo, GT-67 Ball Bearing Upgrade, AR.91, stock exhaust

60# Injectors, FMIC, MSD Ign Coils. LS6 Intake, Custom PCV setup

Turbosmart 38mm Wastegate, 5# Spring, STS BOV
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

After a ton of problem solving since 2009, my car is now building and holding 5 pounds of boost at WOT. The tune i have (which is the initial one sent out from Rick Squires) is a very safe one and is fine for now.

I have yet to install the Electronic Boost Controller (which i plan to dial up to 10-15psi).

When i can get my wife to go for a ride with me, i will take a vid of my low compression LS2 motor with a 5# spring in it for a baseline for y'all.

The car is running fine, i've driven it to work 3 times, and around Saskatoon twice with no problems.

BTW i am running Nitto Drag Radials (305/35/18) on 18 inch Corvette Replica's on my rears. My fronts are the 275/35/18 BF Goodrich tires with the new tread design.

Those nittos likely won't work too good after you up the power to 10psi or so . Even with my 408 and 7.5 psi the nittos weren't working so good. Current toyo drag radials are better and seem not bad in rain. But to really hook up guess have to run et street radials or eqivalent.

60s of course might also be getting too small at 15psi or so. 80s seem much harder to tune right. But maybe not for pro tuners. I am contemplating those very pricey injectors if keep my car.

3.90 is a lot of gear for sure . I find my 3.54 pretty up there too but can't go lower with the dana 60. I think a nice 3.08 would be about right for my car but maybe even something 2.73 would be fine, drop revs more on highway ,likely improve gas mileage. But normally my car won't see much highway and not really worried about mileage either.

I went to 9.5 to 1 still fine compression ratio especially if you use alc injection.
8.5 of course gives a bit more safety margin especially at higher boost levels
just wasn't sure if it made things any more doggy and of course less compression makes a bit less power but boost compensates for that pretty easily!

Its great your car is out and about now. Have fun with it ,carefully of course and try to keep the shiny side up!

Glad to hear its running:)

Thanks Al and Rob.

I went a bit lower compression for a bit more safety margin as i don't want to run methanol.

My thought process: if Porsche, Subaru, Toyota, Dodge, Mitsubishi, Ford and other manufacturers run cars with turbos work without Methanol, i can too.

At this point my car is undergeared...yes.

At this point my car isn't professionally tuned...yes.

I am running a very safe and rich tune....yes.

When i can i will get this boost controller installed, and we will be emailing STS for some help with data tuning to get it sorta figured out.

When all is said and done, this car will produce around 750hp crank hp.

If that requires a different turbo...so be it...if it requires different injectors and/or a different fuel pump, so be it.

This car will produce Audi ass kicking numbers soon.

:)

"1. replace the 1 bar MAP Sensor with a 2 bar MAP Sensor (which will require additional tuning...but will allow more customization and timing advancement in lower rpm scenario's where my low compression motor struggles).

2. put a heat shield on the turbo

3. bump the boost up quite a ways from the 5# it's currently at (i have an electronic boost controller not installed yet)

4. consider changing my rear end gear set from the 3.90 it's currently at to something longer to put the turbo under load sooner in rpm band

Saw these ideas on the local f body board.
All look like good ones.
You could also send out turbo exhaust housing to top gun coating in calgary I did that with mine ,coated up the my exhaust manifolds and my turbo exhaust housing.
heat shield is likely a good idea too.
Yeah you do have a lot of gear at 3.90.
3.42 when had those when my car was still a manual seemed to work pretty good but with the cubes you have could likley go down more 3.23, 3.08 ,2.73. Check out what other similar setup cars are running should help you pick a set that will work good for you.

So no chance you would go to auto with your car?

I am not overly thrilled with 3.54 but currently have no choice thats lowest the dana can take. On the auto still builds boost fast, maybe too fast! even in the lower gears. With the stall and two step bet could leave at 20 psi or more if wanted too.
Of course normally with manual cars you use a two step to build boost off the line.
Used to using those on my manual talons.

I'm not sure what a 3.23 or 3.08 gear would do to driveability.

I will talk to STS and a local trans shop and see what they recommend.

I am looking into the 2 bar setup, but haven't made any decisions yet.

So any updates?

Nope...i have been working since i last posted. I am working all day Thurs and i am hoping to call STS Friday (2 days from now) and see what they say.

In terms of actual hands on progress, i am a few weeks away from touching my car...though i hope to get a run in my car with my wife filming at some point if things work out (as a baseline).

Next up will be the installation of the electronic boost controller when i can get to it....then tuning.

Well it's been an interesting chunk of time since i last posted in July.

1. My car was running alright on the 5# spring and the 3.90 gears. I had the wife come with me for a drive and she couldn't videotape worth a crap.

2. For noise reasons and the exhaust leak reasons, this is what my exhaust looks like from the exhaust manifolds to turbo (for those interested):

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_4539.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_4538.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_4536.jpg

I love the color on the exhaust flange in this photo :)

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_4541.jpg

3. I had a local transmission shop swap out the 3.90's for 3.42's and it made a big enough difference. I couldn't get a 3.23 gear in a 12 bolt rear end which my car has and i didn't want to go 2.73's with a manual.

I've driven the car 3 times since getting the 3.42's in and my engine now hesitates once in boost (most noticeable in 2nd though the upper gears)...and the red SES light flickers on and off very rapidly and faintly...i barely noticed it but it's there.

I tried slowly accelerating the engine to 5,000rpms and not getting into boost and the motor doesn't hesitate...so i don't know what's going on. What i do know is i threw a P0301 code on the 1st run home, i cleared it and it's been gone since...but the hesitation is still there.

3. I finally got around to physically installing the STS Electronic Boost Controller. I forgot how little space i had to work with as there is so much other junk on the underside of my car. Regardless, i got everything hooked up except for the wiring...i'm going to let someone who knows more about wiring than i do finish this off. Here's what i did with my Boost Controller parts:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/STSElectronicBoostController.jpg

I also picked up a 2 bar MAP sensor which we will get installed soon.

Rick Squires also created a 2 bar tune for my car to start with which i will get uploaded after the MAP sensor gets in place.

I'm hoping this engine hesitation issue is nothing major...but i'll keep you posted.

3.42 should help some.I had them at first with my stock rear end with my manual. They were decent ratio. I like a bit of snap off the line especially with a stick.

I have 3.54 now with the 4l80e. Being an auto I could go down somemore I think a 3.23,3.08 or maybe a 2.73 would be bit nicer and quieter less rpm on the highway but the Dana 60 only allows 3.54 lowest so stuck with them.

Of course with 6 speed manual you have that extra sixth gear so can drop revs more and as said be quieter on highway than my 4 speed 4l80e. Wish had put in a 6l80E maybe at some point in the future if keep the car will put one in but don't do much long highway driving anyway, the trip to Kelowna was longest trip likely take although still might drive to Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary or possibly Mission BC track with the car for tuning ,dynoing and racing.
Also wonder if gas mileage would improve a lot if did have 3.42,3.23,3.08 or 2.73. Its not that great with the 3.54 but do tend to play with the boost on the highway which don't help mileage and my tune is still on the rich safe side still a base tune.

Anyway good on your gear swap. Are things quieter now so far?They were bit noisy before?
I have some decel whine with my dana 60 and gears. Not really any accel whine.I still think may have the gears swapped out to different ones and see if can get quieter. Its not horrible loud on decel and can drown it out pretty easily with exhaust,and stereo and heater fan motor.

As for your symptoms under boost ,po301 is misfire cylinder one. Pretty sure that is first cylinder in front drivers side . Forget already been awhile. Likely you have wire off, or defective or burnt or something.While if wires are fubar you will usually get machine gun type noises when you floor it and it goes into boost. You may also have a plug that is not firing right.
I would gap the plug and you have to gap down for boost or you will blow them out, change the plug,you should be running colder than stock now ,number one is easy to get and your sts system is nice easy to get to the plugs . And if you have spare ignition wire put it on and if not depending on mileage I would change out all wires. Most guys run msd or factory wires or gm performance red wires. This problem is likely wire. You could swap wires and see if the problem goes to another cylinder.
I have had nearly identical problems with my car when had problems with wires ,my expensive as hell granatelli wires were fubar and had few other instances with other wires causing misfire and popping.
What is bit strange is that thought misfire codes don't read when you go to speed density.
Are you still running a maf? I usually have to play around and go back to maf to see misfire codes on my setup.
You can't run a maf at your power levels sure you are beyond it or will be as soon as you turn the boost up more. You have to run speed density.
Also you might be past 60 pound injectors pretty soon as well. You will need to go 80s. 80s can be tricky to get to run right. I found solution in my car was to run open loop speed density all the time with the 80s. I got the 60s to run perfect with closed loop speed density.
There are new super expensive huge injectors that work well supposedly but they are like 2000 bucks a set or something retarded. I also have a set of 120 low impedence that idle like stock but have to add in extra wiring and injector converter box and not much room in my engine compartment with the nitrous and my turbo setup. So just been running normal 80s. Course haven't had the car protuned yet.

Anyway if that misfire is accurate check number one and you should have this problem fixed quick. Borrow some wires off other ls1 buddy, Ck or whoever lots of them in your city.

Should be fun with that boost controller. Still have to hook up my eboost. Its just hooked to monitor not control still and running 10psi base spring currently.

I have not driven my car in Kelowna yet except when brought it home. Still have to do safety. I had problem with pop up headlight finally figured out its connector. Ordered one from gm should be here next week. Have to bolt on et street radials to pass safety as think my toyo drag radials are likey worn down too far and have to bolt on my kooks catted ypipe to pass as well. No aircare crap thank god in Kelowna. So with luck have it safetied up in next week and still be able to get some drive time in this season. Fortunate of course to have longer drive season in Kelowna than back in Sask.

Anyway good to see all the progress with your car, follow it on here and on the f body board as well.

Thanks Al.

I am getting my car to a friend's house where he is going to install my 2 bar MAP sensor and a new 2 bar tune.

If the car is still hesitating afterwards, then i will start looking at what the hopefully minor issue could be.

I still have my old stock LS wires and coils, so i'll start by swapping those out before delving into plugs.

I also had a member from another forum say that a failing alternator and low voltage could do this? I am going to drive my car tomorrow at noon to drop off some car parts. I will watch the gauges and make sure nothing wonky is going on.

Well, a friend of mine saved my bacon.

He was gonna take my car to:
1. install 2 bar MAP sensor and
2. install 2 bar tune from STS

What he ended up doing because my car is a piece of sh&t, it taking the time to remove the spark plugs, and gap them accordingly (they were around 36 thou) and needed to be closer to (30 thou). What i gather from his text is that cylinder 5 was wet (unburnt fuel).

He checked wires and all was well. He then swapped in original LS1 coil packs and quote unquote "car now runs like a raped ape"

I haven't had communication with him since as i've been tied with with some extended hours at work, and he may have burnt to a crisp in my satan spawn ride.

I'll text him tomorrow and see how everything else is going on with my car. I don't know if we'll have time to slowly start dialing in a little more boost this season, if not it'll wait until next year.

I got my car back. 2 bar MAP installed, and a few other minor issues sorted out.

As my car is running with no apparent issues, and i would like a baseline set of numbers and a graph i setup a dyno session at Peak Performance on Thursday October 11th, 2012...as long as weather cooperates.

I just want to run my car with the 5# wastegate spring in and see what the baseline is. it is pulling strong enough to spin my 305/35/18 drag radials in 1st gear and feels strong enough as a starting point.

My guess is between 400-450 crank hp currently on my 8.5-1 compression 402ci aluminum LS2 with the STS GT-67 dialed in at 5lbs with no dyno tuning.

I will post the results...good or bad once the run is done.

Following the dyno run i am going to park the car for the season as our nighttime lows are -2 to -6 degrees celsius and my drag radials don't like temps below +10 degrees.

Excellent on the progress of your car and getting those issues with it sorted out!
So is that a mustang or dynojet dyno?

Would think that engine should pretty easily do 400 rwhp with 5psi. Or maybe even 450rwhp. But that is fairly low compression. I went with 9.5 but planned to run meth injection if did go high up on the boost.But will be anxiously waiting to see the results.

Too bad you couldn't give it a track run this year but always next year.
and yeah be careful I remember just getting my 99 running at end of season and it was scary scary was the temps dropped. Definitely keep the shiny side up on that thing! But should be some nicer days left maybe you guys will have a winter like last winter again,you never know. Global warming can be a good thing!

So how does your wife like her g35X? I just picked up a 2004 G35x sedan at auction cheap for wife and our second daily driver. Its pretty fun and the awd should come in handy and realize its only 260hp and your model is 328? hp. And of course they have upgraded quite a bit in 5 years. I will likely trade it up in year or two on newer one like yours . Just kind of bought it spur of the moment. And seems pretty nice. At least was top of line fully loaded version,nav and all that but of course the 2004 nav is not that great compared to newer ones. But have my garmin anyway no big deal.And kicking around trading up to a 2007 ML63 for good price here on lot but think maybe should wait and put money towards 2007 or so SL55 instead,have big hard on for one of those now.If the 99 sells get one of those instantly. My ML 350 is not too bad but a bit gutless with only the v6. I do like my power! At least it has manual shift option as does the g35x and that does really help them out quite a bit. Course g35x is way lighter than the super heavy like 4700 pound Merc. and they both have similar hp. So the g35 of course is way faster. and with awd of course you can just hammer it off the line.

Was thinking to get a second crossover but the car should be ok. All the hill driving have to do with clients wanted for sure awd type of vehicle.

I got kind of busy lately at work and didn't get my 99 safetied and plated might not do it now till spring time. Course longer season here so maybe still get it done.

That car of yours must already rip pretty damn good.:devil: I was driving my 99 with the 402 and similar mods and at 7.5 on the twins it ripped pretty damn good. Of course it rips better at 10psi on the bigger turbos and the 427 but we all know airflow means more than boost pressure so hard to make direct comparisons between different turbos. And bit depressed may wind up taking mine to Van,Edmonton or Calgary to get a proper dyno tune up done. You are lucky stoon has all those dyno options right there.

Wife is enjoying her 2009 G37XS sedan fine. She is coming back from Manitoba with it in 5 hours. She has my radar detector and it has saved her "kiester" a few times :)

We went with a G37 vs G35 for a few reasons, most of it being the 7spd auto vs 5spd. We love the awd, and i found in our last rain storm that with the traction control "off" the system is truly "off"...so i had a bit of fun with it :)

My camaro is running well, and we will turn up the boost to 8lbs next year and get it dialed in, re-dyno, and see where it sits. I'm guessing we'll have to bump the maro up to 10lbs to see any significant different with my GT-67 turbo. But i'm optimisitc it'll produce some decent numbers.

Got a few dyno runs in tonight. The motor made the hp i thought it would based on "seat of the pants" feel. The torque number was higher than i thought, but that would explain the feel somewhat too. My motor is falling on it's face just before 6,000 rpms and this is evident in the dyno graph.

We'll get some answers over the winter, but there is some room for tuning (injector, etc) to get the most out of this setup. The numbers are: 406hp and 512lb/ft torque at 4,000rpms at the wheels. This motor has a lot more in it if we can get everything sorted out.

1. Dyno Run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVEQP-bCaXA

2. Dyno Graph:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB0njA9-ki8

Very decent results for such low boost and like 500 engine hp..Nothing wrong with that! You should be very pleased. And turbos make such nice torque . Might as well put the dyno numbers in the sig. And of course lots more in there.

Over the winter and next year i will try and sort out what is preventing my car from spinning to redline and making it's relative amount of hp and tq.

Some of the turbo guys from locally think my turbo is the restriction in my system.

I'm wondering if some of my exhaust isn't the restriction.

I don't think anything in my intake could the the problem.

Bloody hell this is getting frustrating....being so close to finally getting this car to where it should be!

You should measure back pressure to see where its at. I have hi back pressure with a smaller motor and a larger turbo. I suspect your back pressure is off the chart.

What steps would someone like me take if the backpressure was too high?

Obviously a much larger single turbo.
You aren't running cat converters are you??
If so then they could be plugged up ???
In buddies LT1 STS car he had one cat and it was horribly clogged .It was not really revving great.We gained what felt like 100 or or more hp when we put in offroad pipe to take its place.

If fuel is good and spark is good and no boost leaks then it would seem only things left are turbo sizing or something in the exhaust like clogged up cats.
And you can also play with spark and afr. Would think 11.0 to 11.5 or so is good for afr. Too rich can make them doggy not want to rev..And timing well depends how much he took out. Too little can make things doggy. Too much and you can get doggy from knock retard.

And you should maybe check again for boost leaks. You would think should easily hold 5 psi or whatever till 6000 or 6500. What cam is in there again?
Compression is what again..8.5.if so thats pretty low more suitable for track car. I like 9.0 to 9.5 on street cars. Still can usually run decent boost on pump gas premium and reasonable timing.

That was a pretty wierd graph . I would search thru lots of older sts graphs on ls1tech and see if anyone had similar looking one and why.What does sts say about the turbo and the size of motor. What are other sts guys running with same engine for turbo?

Both CK and a local mechanic who have both tuned and worked on many impressive forced induction vehicles are taking my Camaro from me tomorrow night and working on it Wednesday night.

They are gonna start by looking at the exhaust and turbo parts, then go over the tune with a microscope, and then likely dial up the boost and do a little tuning.

I'll keep y'all posted as i learn more wednesday night or thursday.

Well the Camaro is finally running UBER strong after many years of dicking around with it and getting an unspecified amount of help from helpful peeps.

The restriction (at this point) that we've been dealing with was the nylon filter sock over the air filter. It was completely plugged after around 500kms of driving and torn from vacuum with WOT.

The filter is now directly attached to the turbo (and needs cleaning...but i'll do that this winter).

I took the car out on the highway and found my missing 100+ rwhp. Car is scary fast (partly cause tires are cool and it's not warm outside too).

There is a sporadic engine misfire (which doesn't come up with data logging or check engine light). I had it solved temporarily by finding a prong in one of the electrical connectors on ign coil #2, so i bent it back, reattached and all was good....

...until i got the restriction sorted out. Now the car has a definite shudder around 2,200 rpms. When the car is in boost it feels magical...but out of boost, not so good.

I'm gonna get one last dyno in this upcoming weekend if all works out...not sure how the tune will be with this car making more boost and power up higher in the rev band.

Good you got that stuff figured out. So should be plenty fast for sure. Just be sure to keep the shiny side up considering the time of year it is now.

Long and short of it, car made 512hp @ 5257rpm and 587lb/ft tq @ 4110 rpms with 10# boost.

One of my spark plug wires separated, so a quick fix was done to get the car running (not at 100%).

My silicone coupler blew off my turbo and ended up requiring my turbo to be re-clocked for alignment issues with boost tubing.

Car sounds good, but needs more TLC. So it is now parked and we'll get 'er going again next year.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/1998STSLS2CamaroDynographjpeg.jpg

Here is a youtube clip of the run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAdwysfYr0w

Well the camaro has been sitting dormant since the last dyno session in October 2012. I made it out to Edmonton for 2 days this past weekend and picked up new sunvisors for my tan colored interior (as mine were fu&%ed). Got those installed and they look and work much better.

I had received some LS coils off an LS2/3? truck in 2012 and they've been collecting dust since. The coil part numbers are: 12611424 and the coil brackets are 12580353

I have got the passenger side brackets installed with coils. But my LS1/2/6 spark plug wires are too short. So i am getting ahold of truck wires vs car which add a few inches. Here are some pics:

LS1/2 car coils/brackets vs truck coils/brackets:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_0078_zpsfd5a623a.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_0079_zps0c1ccdfb.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_0081_zps9a092337.jpg

The driver side required some "manipulation" of the fuel rail and lines to allow the brackets and #5 coil to fit into place properly:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_0082_zpsbdebf1b2.jpg

LS car vs truck wires:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/May%202011%20Camaro%20rebuild%20starts/IMG_0084_zps44ae7aa5.jpg

Turns out 2 of my coils were pooched, so that's why I had made the swap from car to truck coils. The car fired up fine, so the true test will be getting the car under load when the snow melts. My street is still covered with 1-2 feet of snow, so my car isn't going anywhere anytime soon. It should reach a high of 32 degrees Fahrenheit or 0 degrees Celsius tomorrow allowing some melting to occur. Spring won't arrive soon enough :(

Turns out 2 of my coils were pooched, so that's why I had made the swap from car to truck coils. The car fired up fine, so the true test will be getting the car under load when the snow melts. My street is still covered with 1-2 feet of snow, so my car isn't going anywhere anytime soon. It should reach a high of 32 degrees Fahrenheit or 0 degrees Celsius tomorrow allowing some melting to occur. Spring won't arrive soon enough :(
Good to here your progressing to find all the problems.:)
Rob.

Thanks Rob, I can't count how many problems I've had with this car since going forced induction. What I do know is that the engine you and your crew built is the only thing not giving me a headache :)

Just have to get everything else cooperating and see what this car will do.

I've posted this under the forced induction thread, but i'll do it again here in case people don't check all the threads. Does anyone know what this metal sleeve is called that would go around a relocated air filter inlet on an STS turbo for the 4th gen f-body cars? And where would a person buy it from?

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/STS76mmairfilterrelocation_zpsc5909b41.jpg

Look up k&n pre filters. We use them on snowmobiles too and they call them snow chargers.

You mean something like this?
Universal Stainless Steel Air Intake Heat Shield for 3" to 3 5" inch Cone Filter | eBay

You mean something like this?
Universal Stainless Steel Air Intake Heat Shield for 3" to 3 5" inch Cone Filter | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-STAINLESS-STEEL-AIR-INTAKE-HEAT-SHIELD-FOR-3-TO-3-5-INCH-CONE-FILTER-/310500790647?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484b4a1177&vxp=mtr)

No, like this....
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRuMomDOFC6Kf9MNcgg4hpE_OieElasZ iNzIXSl1tX2eDysc-Jwdg

I've posted this under the forced induction thread, but i'll do it again here in case people don't check all the threads. Does anyone know what this metal sleeve is called that would go around a relocated air filter inlet on an STS turbo for the 4th gen f-body cars? And where would a person buy it from?

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/STS76mmairfilterrelocation_zpsc5909b41.jpg

I meant is this what fstr n u was looking for.... sry.

Thanks..that's exactly what i'm looking for.

I am just reposting my dyno graphs here:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Dyno%20Graphs/Dynographcompilation.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z226/ryanbaliski/Dyno%20Graphs/1998STSLS2CamaroDynographjpeg.jpg

Any reason why the top end starts rolling off early starting at about 5300rpm.? Is the turbo too small for 402cuin? What are the cam specs?

When the torque numbers are much higher then the HP numbers it usaully means the turbo is too small.
On my 6.0L I was running a 76mm turbo and I made 675whp and almost 750lbs of torque. I should have been running something with a larger turbine.
The small turbine size creates back pressure and causes a bottle neck. On a 402 you would need a good sized turbine wheel to keep back pressure on the safe side.
If you dont want to go to a larger turbo you should look into something along the same specs of the Ebay GT45.
Its still on the small side for an AFR headed 402 but it would drop your back pressure.
It has a larger turbine wheel then the compressor. Your engine is alot more expensive to replace then a turbo. Have a look in the forced induction section to give you an idea what size turbos guys run on 402s.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GT45-HUGE-V-BAND-1000-HPS-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-CAMARO-GT-/150581666321

Just my 2 cents

Cam Specs: Cam Motion Turbo Cam 228/222 (Duration 576/576) Lobe Separation 0.115

I am in the process of looking into turbo options, pricing and fitment. My goal is to have a turbo that can adequately handle 650rwhp. I don't want to go higher than that with this build. I've got a few more pieces to sort out first.

I have had a "clunking" under my car since putting it back together. I couldn't isolate what it was, and then a local car guy asked me about my transmission mount. I said i just had it replaced before my original LS1 motor went kablooey.

I took a vid of it when i jacked it up and released it...it was moving, and i've been told that's a bad thing! So i'll be ordering a polyurethane mount i guess.

I've also got a mysterious new SES light that's come on. I've pulled a P0103 code regarding my MAF, but i've got a new 2 bar MAP sensor and i have a custom 2 bar tune which doesn't utilize my MAF. So i want to get that sorted out.

I also had a hesitation in my engine around 2,000roms in neutral and under load last season. I just removed my MAF and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and the hesitation in neutral seems to be gone, but i've been told that can't happen as my MAF isn't functional any longer. So i've got a phantom issue i'm going to be sorting out shortly. I just wish mother nature would get rid of the 2 feet of snow (and minus 10-20 degree celsius temps) from my driveway to the street (250 feet away) so i could get my car out and see what's going on.